Saturday, August 19, 2006

Hanoi, Vietnam - 1-3 August 2006


I finally made it to Vietnam's capital and second largest city after surviving a long, grueling and crowded bus ride from Hue. It was incredulous how for a third of the way, I gradually gave up half of my seat to a man and his young son (who was initially sitting on his father's lap and hence, a non-paying passenger). The ordeal was exacerbated by the terrible B.O. from the passengers around me. Also, I saw a woman and a man sleeping on the floor of the bus in the middle aisle AND this guy behind me kept shoving his stinking foot on to my right arm rest. My patience, which was limited to begin-with, was tested on that overnight bus ride to Hanoi. Eventually, I told the man next to me to sit his son elsewhere because I could not sleep with his son's body rubbing against my left arm and thigh. I was SO glad to arrive in Hanoi at 7 that morning.

French influences were strong in Hanoi - in the promenades and large mansions, for instance. Hanoi was after all the capital of French Indochina from 1902 to 1954. Notwithstanding the French influence, communism is now the order of the day and Hanoi the capital of the Socialist Republic of Vietnam (SRV). The visit to Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum was markedly solemn and serious as all visitors must be in proper attire (no sleeveless shirts, for instance) to show reverence to their deceased communist elder. I also visited the Dong Xuan market, Lenin Park, and One Pillar Pagoda (Chua Mot Cot - built by Emperor Ly Thai Tong, 1028-54, to represent a lotus blossom, a symbol of purity rising out of a sea of sorrow). Unfortunately, I didn't have time to visit the other attractions, such as the Museum of Literature, in Hanoi.

A 3.5 hour bus ride from Hanoi to Halong Bay city was also futile as we had to turn back in the face of an approaching storm, a category 3 typhoon Henry. Since we couldn't go out to the Bay, we had a good Vietnamese lunch on the docked boat before we headed back to Hanoi. The force majeure was a bummer but at least I got to see the Halong Bay islets from land. All these meant that I ought to do a return trip to northern Vietnam and spend a few nights at the bay for kayaking, exploring, etc.; if I do, I'll include Sapa in the itinerary, which I heard will need 4 full days alone. Many people I met on the trip had raved about the hillside indigenous village.

(Click on any image for a(n) enlarged / gallery view)
Above: My first meal in Hanoi, with fellow traveler, Wilson


 
Above left: The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum memorial; Above right: The Presidential Palace



Above right: "Cha gio" is a specialty of Hanoi



Above middle: 70,000 dong is about US$4.55

Above: "Cha Ca La Vong" a famous grilled fish restaurant



Above right: Bia hoi, fresh beer, was great; each glass cost only 4,000 dong or about US$0.25. So fresh, it had no preservatives and so, a tankful of beer would go bad in a few hours. These were delivered daily.



Vietnam Itinerary: Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon - Dalat - Nha Trang - Hoi An - Hue - Hanoi

Hue, Vietnam - 31 July 2006

Located in central Vietnam, Hue was once the imperial capital of the Nguyen dynasty up to 1945 when the Emperor abdicated and the communist took over Hanoi and established it as North Vietnam's capital. Recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site for her many historic monuments, Hue struck me as a forgotten town with old glories.

My bus left Hoi An at 8:30 am and arrived in Danang 45 minutes later. After a quick stop to let some passengers alight, the bus proceeded to Hue, where we arrived at 11:30 am. I met a few fellow travelers at the tour bus office in Hue and since our connecting bus to Hanoi would not be until 5 pm that day, we decided to hire local "easyriders" to take us on a day tour on their motor scooters. For US$6, I was able to see Hue in a jiffy with Doug as my guide.

We visited what's left of an American bunker up a hill that overlooked the Perfume River. Next, we went to Tu Duc's tomb, which cost 55,000 dong (about US$3.60) to enter. It was peaceful in the compounds but too hot to sit around. After that, we went to the Thien Mu (Heavenly Light) Pagoda, which was built in 1806. The 7-storey pagoda is the largest in Vietnam and a symbol of Hue. Following that, we had lunch at a nearby restaurant that served local Hue specialties - Bun thit nuong (rice vermicelli with grilled pork) and Banh uot thit nuong (fresh spring rolls with grilled pork). The former cost 5,000 dong (about US$0.33) and the latter, 4,000 dong (about US$0.25); lemonade was another 4,000 dong. One of the best value and delicious meals I've had in Vietnam!

After lunch, we headed to the Citadel, a.k.a. The Imperial Palace but we decided against paying another 55,000 dong to see the site partly because it looked like it was going to rain heavily. So, after taking a few photos of the facade, we returned to the tour bus office and waited for the connecting bus to arrive to take us north to Hanoi.

(Click on any image for a(n) enlarged / gallery view)
Above center: A little girl, unabashedly posed for me, on our bus ride north from Hoi An to Hue; Above right: A friendly cook at a bus stop restaurant in Hue


Above: A 'non la' in the making


Above: An incense maker


Above left: The Perfume River in the background

Above: An old American bunker

Above: @ the 7-storey Thien Mu Pagoda, the largest in Vietnam and a symbol of Hue


Hue specialties:
Above left: Banh uot thit nuong (fresh spring rolls with grilled pork), 4,000 dong or about US$0.25; Above right: bun thit nuong (rice vermicelli with grilled pork), 5,000 dong or about US$0.33


Above: @ the Citadel


Above right: Doug - my knowledgeable guide/moto driver

Vietnam Itinerary: Ho Chi Minh City / Saigon - Dalat - Nha Trang - Hoi An - Hue - Hanoi