Sunday, May 24, 2015

Pamina Devi by Sophiline Arts Ensemble, Phnom Penh, Cambodia - 24 May 2015

I attended my first classical Cambodian dance performance at the Department of Performing Arts Theater today. With the exception of the poor A/C in the auditorium (there was no central cooling system), I thought the production was well done. The stage set was simple with a few triangular metal lattices and the costumes were less gaudy than previous performances in other countries (see video clip below); it worked for me. The focus was on story-telling with authentic Cambodian dance.

The story of Pamina Devi was adapted from The Magic Flute, an opera by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Narrated through lyrics sung in Khmer and accompanied by traditional Khmer percussion instruments, the story of Pamina Devi was brought to life by the elegant artists of the Sophiline Arts Ensemble. Choreographed and directed by Sophiline Cheam Shapiro, the dance movements were mesmerizing. From the facial expressions and hyper-extended fingers to the arched backs and delicate limb movements, the dancers captivated me. It was all so beautiful that I didn't mind the heat and the poor content of the story.

Above: A previous performance in NYC - a more flamboyant set

Above left: Pamina Devi (left) and her mother, the Queen of the Night; Above right: Petite dancers

Above: Where the musicians played


Next post: Kampot, Kampot Province, Cambodia (30 May - 01 June 2015)
Previous post: Do Good and Feel Good with Social Enterprises and NGOs in Phnom Penh, Cambodia - 23 May 2015

Friday, May 22, 2015

Do Good and Feel Good with Social Enterprises and NGOs in Phnom Penh, Cambodia - 23 May 2015

I may be wrong but Phnom Penh appears to be the world's mecca of social enterprises and NGOs (non-governmental organizations) and it feels like almost every other expat I know either works for an NGO, volunteers in one, or owns the business.

There is a multitude of local and foreign NGOs in Cambodia that tackle issues related to gender equality, sex trafficking and exploitation, children's right to education, clean water, health and sanitation, the rights of the disabled, etc. to name a few; many are faith-based, others secular. While many NGOs are aid-dependent and rely on grants, donations, and volunteers to stay afloat, others incorporate social enterprises into their distribution mix.

The idea of mixing social responsibility with doing business is not foreign to me. In fact, in 2007, I wrote a Master's thesis on the topic of "Social Innovation: The Bottom of the Pyramid (BOP) Approach: Exploring How a Business Strategy on Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) Can Drive Corporate Growth and Profitability". The concept makes economic and social sense.

Socially responsible restaurants are a prominent form of social enterprises in Cambodia. Many of these restaurant employees have a disadvantaged background, many are trained in these restaurants to gain employable hospitality skills and experiences, and many call these restaurants home, a new life and family away from a checkered and impoverished past. For the owners, these restaurants mean more than profits, they are a channel to do good and make a positive impact in the society they operate in. Profits go to support livelihoods and education. Many of these restaurants also sell goods that are handmade by artisans in villages or by the staff themselves - an outlet for their creative skills to be acknowledged and original merchandises (hopefully) purchased.

Below are a few NGOs and social enterprises worth looking into in Phnom Penh, Cambodia:


This photo exhibit, "Hope and Resilience: Deaf Adults in Cambodia" was sponsored by the U.S. Embassy and DDP. The exhibited photos were taken by members of the deaf community as well as New York Times photographer James Wassermann and DDP's own Arvin Mamhot. Set on the roof top of the Frangipani Living Arts Hotel on St. 123 in Tuol Tom Poung under a warm night sky, the event was a stage for the deaf community to be seen and heard. It was an eye-opening experience for me to be there. Raise both hands and shake them (the sign for a round of applause).



#23, Street 123, Tuol Tom Poung, Phnom Penh; Sun-Fri 11am - 9pm

More than just fab burgers, the cafe is a training ground for at-risk youths to gain hospitality skills that are relevant in Cambodia's booming hospitality and tourism industry. Operated by Restore One Charity, the profits from this cafe are also channeled back to fund the various Restore One projects that were established to improve the lives of Cambodian families in rural villages. Click on the link above to read more about Restore One projects in education, housing, micro-businesses, and life skills.



#87, Street 155, Tuol Tom Poung, Phnom Penh; Mon-Sat 9am - 6pm

This social enterprise is comprised of a beauty salon, a tea room, and a cafe. On Tuesday, a full body massage cost just US$10.00 and afternoon tea US$5.00. Make it a Tuesday of pampering!



#130A, Street 430, Tuol Tom Poung, Phnom Penh; Mon-Fri 8am - 5:30pm, Sat 9am - 5:30pm

Operated under the umbrella of faith-based Daughters of Cambodia, the cafe is one of several retail and service businesses that functions as a recovery outlet for hundreds of former sex workers to experience healing, love, and quality of life. These courageous individuals learn to manage and run the businesses self-sufficiently while sustaining their new lives for the long term.



#74, Street 174, Phnom Penh; Opens daily from 11am - 10:30 pm

Managed by local NGO, Mith Samlanh, in collaboration with TREE Alliance, Romdeng serves up authentic local Cambodian cuisine in a charming colonial setting. In addition to training former street or marginalized youths in the hospitality and culinary industry, the restaurant also features artwork and handicrafts for sale; these were produced by students in Mith Samlanh's art and sewing classes.



#170, Street 450, Tuol Tom Poung, Phnom Penh; Open daily from 8am - 9pm

This cafe provides employment and training to underprivileged youths and vulnerable women. Their aubergine rolls (US$3.50) were absolutely delicious.



#215, Street 13, Phnom Penh; Open daily from 11am - 10:30pm

Just like Romdeng (above), this restaurant is managed by Mith Samlanh, in collaboration with TREE Alliance. Friends is well-known for its international cuisine and frozen shakes and daiquiris.



Monday, May 4, 2015

Visa Extension and My New Ride (Phnom Penh, Cambodia) - 4 May 2015

This morning, I ventured into Sangkat Orussey 4 where I heard that many bicycle shops and travel agencies are centered. I wanted to kill two birds with one stone.

First order of business - visa extension. As my 30-day Ordinary/Business (E) Visa will be expiring soon, I need to extend it to stay in the Kingdom. The good news is I don't have to do a visa run (i.e. leave the country to get a new visa) as I can extend the E visa from within through a travel agent. The options are a 30-day, 3-month, 6-month, or one-year extension (which is my preference). Walking along St. 182, I came across Discover Travel & Tours (#11Eo, St. 182) and stopped inside to ask how much it would cost to extend my visa for a year. The lady there said US$288. Next to me, a courier guy was handling a few passports - all visa extensions it seemed. I thought the price was reasonable (having already done some research) and it looked like they knew what they were doing so I went with it and gave her a passport photo along with my passport (to be collected 4 days later with the payment) - the process was swift and painless.

Second order of business - buy a bike. Tired of haggling with tuk-tuk drivers and missing my own freedom and mobility, I decided it was time to buy a bicycle. So while I was at the agency, I asked if anyone could recommend a place for me to buy a used bicycle. Hong Ti, a staff there, so graciously offered to take me across the street to a bike shop nearby. There, he asked a staff in Khmer for the best type and price. We eventually picked out this red beauty, priced down to US$40 with bells and whistles thrown in: basket, bell, front light, and an elastic cord. A new lock cost an additional US$3. It's a breeze to ride and I love it! It's heartening to find good people around who are ready to assist without asking for favors in return.

Above left: My red riding hood

Above left: Staff at the bicycle shop fixing up my new ride

Other scenes from around Phnom Penh:

Above left: What?; Above right: Dinner at Sesame Noodle Bar (US$6.00 with drink)

Above left: Lunch (US$4.50) at Eleven One Kitchen; Above right: Dessert at Aeon Mall

Above left: @ Digby's Grocer Butchery Cafe - a piece of San Francisco in Phnom Penh

Above: Cooling down with fresh coconut juice (US$0.75/coconut - best price I've seen)

Above left: Tuk-tuk drivers playing chess; Above right: Street vendor peddling gasoline to motorcyclists (about the same price as the regular gas station, ~US$1.04/liter) - their selling point: convenience

Above: Beard Papa's in Phnom Penh ~ the durian flavor puff was scrumptious! (US$1.70/cream puff)

Above: Dinner at L'Orchidee ~ fried noodles with tofu (US$3.50) and creme brulee (US$2.00)

Above left: I feel sorry for the adorable fluffy one who must bear this weather in that layer of fur; Above right: Banana shake (US$1.75) and the so-called fight of the century at Riverhouse at the Riverfront

Above: Sunday brunch at Metro at the Riverfront - poached eggs with mushroom, potatoes, tomatoes, and zucchini hash (US$5.00)

Above: Cambodia Post Olympic Branch on Preah Sihanouk Blvd (between St. 173 and St. 163) - unlike coffee and tea houses, post offices in Phnom Penh are few and far between; this branch was a US$2.00 tuk-tuk ride away from my place


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