Arica, Atacama (desert) y Santiago, Chile - 26-29 November 2008

Above: Atacama desert

On the Wednesday morning of November 26, I boarded another Cruz del Sur bus (a 6-hour ride) from Arequipa to Tacna (Peru's southernmost town bordering Chile) where I hitched a 'colectivo' taxi (for a 'gringo' price of 15 soles) to take me across the border to Chile. It was a new experience for me to share a taxi with 5 male strangers. We were silent throughout the 50+ minutes journey as we rode in the taxi and followed the process to cross the Peruvian and Chilean customs and immigration. The system (whether official or otherwise) was odd but it served a purpose and worked.

The taxi driver dropped us at the bus station in Arica (Chile's northernmost town bordering Peru) where I bought a bus ticket (for 31,000 Chilean Pesos or ~US$48) for departure the same night to Santiago. The marathon 30-hour bus ride south from Arica to Santiago was the longest I have endured thus far. The Pullman bus stopped a few times at several small towns along the way to drop off and pick up passengers - all of which were a welcome respite from the otherwise very dull and solitude journey across the dry Atacama desert (presumably the driest desert in the world). At the stops, we were able to walk around a bit and buy some real food (versus the awful crackers and sugary pack drinks they served on board).

Above left: Sopa de marisco (seafood soup) from Arica - so good, it hit a spot

My first impression of the country and Chileans - immediately after crossing the Peruvian-Chilean border - was 1) Chile seemed more modern and developed than her northern neighbor with industries and trade to back her economy (unlike tourism-based Peru) and 2) Chileans in general (many of whom have white skin tone) seemed to place a high regard on their physical appearance - as if they feared a ridicule of a 'lower' status by others on the superficiality of their looks, or perhaps to distinguish themselves from the Peruvians.

Santiago - with her modern infrastructure of reliable transportation (the usual buses, taxis, and subway system), high-rise apartments, shopping centers, and office buildings, and a cultured lifestyle of museums, theaters and cafes - was definitely not your 'typical' South American city. It was a nice change of sort but I missed the energy of the Peruvian highlands. There was simply something special about (being around) mother nature that brought out the best in me. Still, I made the most of my stay in the city (that resembled the Spanish cities of Madrid and Barcelona) by indulging in lattes, visiting the library, and catching the latest Bond movie "Quantum of Solace" (which I thought was pretty good).

Above right: Sopa de Marisco again (3,500 Chilean Pesos or ~US$5.30)

Above right: The concept at Cafe Caribe (and a few others) in Chile: 'Hooters' meet 'Starbucks' (you get the drift)

Arequipa, Peru - 24-25 November 2008

Above: The Cathedral @ Plaza de Armas in Arequipa

Baptised the "White City" for the light-colo(u)red sillar (volcanic rock)-based colonial buildings, Arequipa hit a good note with me immediately upon arrival from Puno (a fairly easy 6-hour bus ride with views of the deserts and canyons).

Above left: Plaza de Armas; Above right: Ornate facade of the Jesuit Iglesia de La Compania

Above left: White volcanic sillar rock used in an old colonial building; Above right: Caldo de Gallina (6 soles or US$2)

Above left: Supposedly called "Tuna" (2 for 1 soles or US$0.30) - sweet, juicy with small seeds...tasted a bit like the other fruit, Pitaya;
Above right: Ceviche Pescado (7 soles or ~US$2.30) - sour-y raw fish with sweet potatoes, roasted kernels and vegetables

Above: Spanish colonial architecture (seen above, large doors) remains in Peru's second-largest city

Arequipa's main attraction is the Santa Catalina Convent (or Monasterio Santa Catalina), which was literally a "city within a city". After more than three hundred years of exclusivity and seclusion, the monastery was finally forced open to the public in 1970 - although the Dominican nuns still live, shrouded in mystery, in a small part of the complex that is closed to the public. For US$10, we get a ticket into the religious order of the Dominican nuns and their place of sanctuary. They live a simple religious life that includes prayers, meditations, charities, fasting and keeping silence. A novitiate (prospective nun) must first live in the complex for a minimum year and on completion of the year and with the Prioress' approval (with the Bishop informed), the novitiate will then take her vows of poverty, chastity, and obedience to be ordained a nun.

The 'citadel' was a peaceful retreat for me. Walking the narrow streets with soft religious music playing in the background brought me tranquility as I reflected on the lives of these nuns within these high walls, away from the "real world".

Above: The high walls enclosing the Santa Catalina Convent from the outside world

Above right: "Divine Soul and Love" canvas series in the Orange Tree Cloister

Above left: The Orange Tree Cloister

Above: Nuns from rich families used to live it up in the Monastery until the arrival of a strict Prioress who straightened things out

Above: The Eucharist Wafer - made in the Convent

Above left: Clay Jar Laundry

Above left: Typical Clay Oven

Above right: View of the 2 volcanoes: Chachani (left) & El Misti (I think)

Above left: Stone Fountain; Above right: In the cell of Sister Ana de Los Angeles Monteagudo - a nun who lived in the Convent until her death in 1686. She was beatified by Pope John Paul II in 1985 as various miracles and predictions were attributed to her

Above left: Sister Ana's rosary; Above right: The Great Cloister

For the record, I highly recommend the Point Hostel in the relaxing suburb of Vallecito for: 1) great value for money (at just 24 soles or US$8/night), 2) free wifi, 3) a mere 15-minutes walk to the Plaza de Armas (center), 4) relaxing villa-like environs with backpackers' amenities such as a pool table, table tennis table and TV room, 5) clean toilets and 6) comfortable beds.