Here are links to my spiritual pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela and beyond:
Pre-Camino:
Camino de Santiago: The Why, What, When, and HowDescription: In less than 80 days, I will embark on a solo pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain, inspired by Paulo Coelho's "The Pilgrimage." This journey is my personal walk for God. Legend has it that San Tiago's (St. James) mortal remains are in Compostela. A bright star guided a shepherd to the site, leading to its name, "Compostela," or the Star Field. The Camino, symbolized by the scallop shell, has been traveled by pilgrims since the Middle Ages. Films like "The Way" and "Walking the Camino: Six Ways to Santiago" capture its essence. The Camino teaches acceptance and resilience. Facing the challenge of traveling as a pilgrim is a lesson in itself. Recently, I admired Salvador Dali's painting "Santiago El Grande," which beautifully depicts St. James. Expectations: 3 months this summer, 3 countries (France, Spain, Portugal), 3 languages, 1 backpack, and 1 pair of good walking shoes. Starting in Paris, I'll train to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, following Camino Frances for 500 miles (790 km). After Santiago de Compostela, I'll walk to Finisterre and then head to Porto, Portugal, to fly home. I'll stay in budget refugios and brush up on my Spanish. Please pray for me, and stay tuned for updates. Buen Camino!
Camino de Santiago: Credencial del Peregrino
Description: I recently received my Credencial del Peregrino (Pilgrim passport) in the mail after applying online at American Pilgrims. This credential identifies me as a pilgrim traveling on foot, and I need to show it at albergues for stamping. To obtain my Compostela certificate, I must present the credential with completed stamps and dates at the Pilgrims' Welcome Office in Santiago. For the final 100 kilometers, two stamps per day are required. Planning a 60-day journey, I might get a second credential at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port. The "Pilgrims Prayer" on the credential is moving, asking for God's guidance and support. I also love the "Spirit of the Camino," which includes living in the moment and welcoming each day. I ended up with 3 books of credencials from my walk from SJPdP to Santiago and a smaller one for the walk from Santiago to Finisterre (Fisterra). Along the way, I collected stamps from bars, restaurants, churches, and museums, creating a fabulous collection of souvenirs. New credencials cost about 2 euros each and can be purchased at select albergues, pilgrims' offices, or gift shops.
Camino de Santiago: My Pack List
Description: "The lighter, the better" is advice I wish I could follow. The suggested pack weight is 10% of my body weight, but I couldn't keep it between 12-13 lbs (5.5-5.9 kg). Initially, my pack weighed 24 lbs (10.9 kg), about 20% of my body weight. After several iterations, I reduced it to around 19 lbs (8.6 kg), 15% of my body weight, and it will likely stay that way. My self-imposed limit is 20 lbs (9 kg), but I have essential items like extra sandals and electronics for blogging. With 2 weeks left, I might make minor revisions, but the total weight will remain relatively unchanged. Focusing on my spiritual connection to God helped me keep perspective. I look forward to daily spiritual readings, reflections, and connecting with nature and fellow pilgrims. That, to me, is more important than the material stuff.
Camino de Santiago: A Journey's Start (again!)
Description: I'm all packed and ready for the Camino. Daily plans, destinations for the first week in France, travel routes, backpack, and financial preparations are all checked. Spiritually, I trust in God's plans. A friend gave me 90 inspirational notes to read daily, the first being a quote from Marcus Aurelius about the power of perspective. In appreciation of the support from Vanya, Lisa, and Damir, I wish you all love, peace, and joy!
Camino de Santiago: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)
Description: The 12-13 hour flight to Paris was uneventful, filled with movies like "Frozen" and "Dallas Buyers Club." Upon arriving at CDG, I was relieved to deplane and navigated through immigration and customs swiftly. Travelex exchange rates were high, but I needed euros for my first day. Feeling overwhelmed by the foreign environment, I appreciated the sudden change in perspective that travel brings. After taking a train and bus, I arrived at Ephraim guesthouse at the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre. My room was tiny but clean, and I appreciated the included dinner and breakfast for 37 euros. Battling jet lag and rain, I rested in my room, enjoying the comforting sounds outside. In the afternoon, I visited Chapelle Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse, where I attended Mass and had my medallion blessed. Despite the rain, I explored Paris, noting the prevalent smoking outside buildings. At the guesthouse, I joined an adoration service before dinner with French guests, appreciating their friendliness and assistance. It was an eventful first day in Paris, ending with a peaceful night's sleep. Until next time, pax et a bientôt!
Camino de Santiago: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)
Description: I met Madeleine and Gilbert at Ephraim guesthouse, a couple with rich Camino experiences, and Marie-Sophie, a gentle volunteer. Their stories and advice, especially Madeleine's "Be Happy," inspired me. After breakfast, I paused for adoration at the Basilique, admiring the Benedictine sisters' devotion. I boarded the TGV train to Bayonne at Montparnasse station. Despite a full car and a seating mix-up, I arrived in Bayonne at 3:45 pm. Bayonne felt quaint with Basque-influenced homes. I took a bus to Maison Diocésaine St. Leon and checked into my pre-reserved room with an envelope waiting for me—a welcoming touch of trust. The room was bigger but older, and I made my own bed with provided linens. After a brief rest, I explored and met Frederic, who helped with Wi-Fi and dinner arrangements. I also met Eugenie, who invited me to the market the next day. Their kindness touched me deeply. Dinner was a three-course meal of tuna salad, pasta with chicken Alfredo, and Basque cheese and yogurt, with red wine and water.
Camino de Santiago: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)
Description: Eugenie, a knowledgeable local, played guide as we explored the beautiful city of Bayonne. Discover the historic streets, vibrant markets, and delectable local cuisine that I experienced on June 12, 2014. This memorable day in Bayonne, enriched by Eugenie's insights, was the perfect prelude to my spiritual pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela.
Camino de Santiago: Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port (June 13, 2014)
Description: Facing a national train strike, I struggled to get a ticket from Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port. With the help of Nick, a kind Canadian, I managed to buy a bus ticket. The journey was scenic, and I reached St. Jean Pied de Port, feeling both excited and apprehensive about starting my Camino pilgrimage. Reflecting on the support from strangers and the charm of the town, I felt grateful for the beginning of this spiritual journey.
Camino:
Camino de Santiago: Day 1 - St. Jean Pied de Port to Valcarlos (June 14, 2014)Description: Starting the Camino at the welcoming Beilari guesthouse in St. Jean Pied de Port, I enjoyed a communal dinner with pilgrims from around the world. On June 14, 2014, I began my journey at the Pilgrim's Gate, walking 12.9 km to Valcarlos through scenic landscapes of farms, valleys, and forests. The tranquility and beauty of the route were enhanced by friendly encounters with locals and fellow travelers. After a serene morning walk, I settled into an albergue in Valcarlos, where a group of fellow pilgrims from California shared a generous dinner, embodying the Spirit of the Camino.
Camino de Santiago: Day 2 - Valcarlos to Roncesvalles (June 15, 2014)
Description: Starting my walk at 7 am, I faced a challenging climb up the Pyrenees, with a mix of highway and forest trails reminding me of nature's solace. Arriving at Roncesvalles by 11:20 am, I explored the small town, attended a beautiful Mass at the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria, and enjoyed the confluence of old and young traditions. After settling at a Dutch-run albergue, I shared a delightful pilgrim meal with three German karate friends, reflecting on the day's wisdom and the journey ahead.
Camino de Santiago: Day 3 - Roncesvalles to Zubiri (June 16, 2014)
Description: After a challenging day, today's 21.5 km walk from Roncesvalles to Zubiri was easier. Departing at 6 am, I reached Zubiri by noon, passing through several picturesque Basque towns. My hiking pole and good socks eased the journey, despite blisters from the previous day. A fortuitous breakfast stop at a bar provided much-needed rest. The diversity of pilgrims I met from various countries highlighted our shared goal of walking the Camino. Zubiri offered a pleasant rest stop, with comfortable accommodations at Albergue Zaldiko, complete with private bathrooms and high-speed WiFi.
Camino de Santiago: Day 4 - Zubiri to Pamplona (June 17, 2014)
Description: Walking 20.5 km from Zubiri to Pamplona, I arrived at Casa Paderborn by noon, just as their doors opened. The journey was hot and sunny, but I paced myself, taking photos and praying. After settling in at the German-managed albergue, I attended a Pilgrims' Mass at the Church of San Saturnino. Despite catching a cold, the day's experiences and the Mass brought me solace and strength.
Camino de Santiago: Day 5 - Pamplona (June 18, 2014)
Description: Spending an extra day in Pamplona, I enjoyed a peaceful morning at the historic Café Iruña, a favorite of Ernest Hemingway. I explored the city’s rich history, visiting the Cathedral of Santa Maria, the Cathedral Museum, and the Museum of Navarre. After checking into the municipal albergue, I savored a three-course peregrino lunch and relaxed with divine hot chocolate at El Peregrino cafe. The day was a perfect blend of sightseeing and relaxation, allowing me to fully appreciate Pamplona's charm and culture.
Camino de Santiago: Day 6 - Pamplona to Puente La Reina (June 19, 2014)
Description: Starting at 5:30 am, I walked 23.5 km from Pamplona to Puente La Reina, overcoming initial fears and appreciating the beautiful sunrise at Cizur Menor. The ascent to Alto de Perdon was challenging but rewarding. I met two fellow pilgrims, Gonzalga from Spain and Alexander from Latvia, who shared their unique experiences. Reaching Puente La Reina by 11:30 am, I settled into Albergue Padres Reparadores, visited the historic 12th-century Church of Santiago, and marveled at the Romanesque bridge. Despite a blister, I felt great and grateful for the day's journey.
Camino de Santiago: Day 7 - Puente La Reina to Estella (June 20, 2014)
Description: Today's 21 km walk from Puente La Reina to Estella was challenging, with exposed conditions under the hot sun and a taxing trail. I missed the shaded greenery of earlier days. A brief stop in Lorca for tea and a chocolate croissant, accompanied by classical music, was a highlight. The absence of music on the trail made me long for inspirational pieces like Ennio Morricone's "The Mission" theme and the Pilgrims' Hymn. Despite a new blister, I checked into the parrochial albergue in Estella, appreciating its amenities and small comforts. The day concluded with treats like chocolate ice cream and a heartfelt pilgrims' blessing at the Church of St. Michael, reinforcing the value of simplicity and the gifts of the Camino.
Camino de Santiago: Day 8 - Estella to Villamayor de Monjardin (June 21, 2014)
Description: After a restful night at the parrochial albergue in Estella, I started my short but still challenging 9 km hike to Villamayor de Monjardin at 7:30 am. Along the way, I enjoyed a unique stop at Bodegas Irache, where pilgrims can help themselves to free red wine—a novel and delightful experience. The day highlighted the appeal of private, parrochial, and smaller albergues for their personal touch and welcoming atmosphere. Reaching Villamayor de Monjardin, I met a kind elderly man who showed me the local church, the Church of St. Andrew the Apostle, adding a special touch to the day as it housed the 12th-C Processional Cross of Monjardin. After a relaxing morning with tea and a torta at a bar, I checked into a blissful private albergue with stunning views for 15 euros a night. This serene setting provided an oasis for rest and rejuvenation, complete with a meal I cooked myself. The journey continues to teach me the value of simplicity, connection, and the small comforts that make each day special.
Camino de Santiago: Day 9 - Villamayor de Monjardin to Torres del Rio (June 22, 2014)
Description: Today's 20 km walk from Villamayor de Monjardin to Torres del Rio tested my patience, perseverance, and pain tolerance. Starting pleasantly at 6:45 am, the trail soon turned torturous with unshaded stretches under the hot sun. Blisters and a sore shin added to the challenge. Despite losing my way twice, I focused on the positive and pressed on, arriving by noon. Staying at Albergue Casa Mariela, the €23 rate included a bed, dinner, and breakfast. Applying pain relief cream was a welcome respite. The day underscored the importance of focusing on the journey and the environment around me, despite the physical discomfort.
Camino de Santiago: Day 10 - Torres del Rio to Logroño (June 23, 2014)
Description: Last night, I enjoyed a three-course meal with Emilio from France and Luciano from Italy, despite the language barrier. The evening showers were a refreshing relief, allowing me to sleep soundly. This morning, I embarked on a 20.5 km hike from Torres del Rio to Logroño, crossing into the La Rioja region and bidding farewell to Navarra. Along the way, I met Jeanine from California again, and we shared a delightful two-hour lunch in Logroño. Feeling grateful for the blessings of the day, I settled into a parrochial albergue. The day concluded with a communal dinner, a night prayer service at the Church of Santiago, and getting our sellos (stamps) after the service.
Camino de Santiago: Day 11 - Logrono to Ventosa (June 24, 2014)
Description: Today's 19 km walk from Logrono to Ventosa was mostly uninspiring, with parts of the trail being dirty and next to a highway. However, the overcast weather and cool breeze were a blessing. Leaving Logrono at 6 am, I arrived in Ventosa by 11:15 am, with a brief rest in Navarrete. After waiting at a bar-cafe, I checked into the tastefully decorated Albergue San Saturnino, which features a peaceful courtyard. The day ended with relaxation and catching up on things.
Camino de Santiago: Day 12 - Ventosa to Azofra (June 25, 2014)
Description: This morning at the Albergue San Saturnino in Ventosa, hymns served as a lovely wake-up call. I walked a short 16 km from Ventosa to Azofra, aiming to rest before heading to Granon tomorrow. The municipal albergue in Azofra, where I stayed for 7 euros, offers rooms for two. I continue to find comfort in the daily pilgrim's prayer. I met fellow pilgrims at Ventosa who ended their journey today, feeling a sense of melancholy for them. The magic and serenity of the Camino lie in the silent walks, medieval towns, and the wonderful people met along the way. Today's journey emphasized gratitude and cherishing every moment.
Camino de Santiago: Day 13 - Azofra to Granon (June 26, 2014)
Description: Starting at 5:45 am, I walked 20.5 km from Azofra to Granon, stopping in Santo Domingo de la Calzada for breakfast and a tour of the Cathedral, where I learned about the amusing legend of the rooster and the hen. Today brought the first rain of my journey, a refreshing change from the heat. In Granon, I stayed at the Hospital de Peregrinos San Juan Bautista albergue, a unique donativo refuge where we sleep on mattresses on the floor and share communal meals. The day concluded with Mass, dinner, and evening prayers, embodying the true spirit of the Camino.
Camino de Santiago: Day 14 - Granon to Tosantos (June 27, 2014)
Description: Starting at 6:15 am, I walked 21.5 km from Granon to Tosantos, passing through five towns and crossing into the Burgos region. Despite some bug bites and a rushed morning in Granon, I found solace in another Hospital de Peregrinos in Tosantos, dedicated to St. Francis of Assisi. The warm welcome from Jose-Louis made a significant difference. A delicious communal dinner and a moving night prayer service highlighted the evening. The day included a visit to the Virgen de la Pena shrine and a much-needed break in Belorado. Despite the physical and emotional challenges, the Camino's spiritual journey continues to provide strength and focus.
Camino de Santiago: Day 15 - Tosantos to Atapuerca (June 28, 2014)
Description: Today, I walked the longest distance on the Camino, covering 27 km from Tosantos to Atapuerca in 6 hours and 30 minutes. The journey was mostly uphill, peaking at 1,000 meters at San Juan de Ortega, before descending to Atapuerca. I enjoyed the beautiful scenery and gorgeous weather, feeling great on the trail. Highlights included arriving in Villafranca Montes de Oca and San Juan de Ortega, seeing the Church of San Juan de Ortega, and finally settling into El Peregrino Albergue in Atapuerca. The day concluded with a weekend 3-course meal at La Cantina.
Camino de Santiago: Day 16 - Atapuerca to Burgos (June 29, 2014)
Description: Today, I walked 18.5 km from Atapuerca to Burgos, enjoying clear skies and cool weather. Arriving in Burgos after an additional 8 km through an industrial area, I felt overwhelmed by the city's noise and crowds, especially during the festival of St. Paul and St. Peter. After settling into Casa de Peregrinos de Emaus, I explored the Human Evolution Museum and the Burgos Cathedral, both offering fascinating insights into history and culture. The day ended with Mass, dinner, and reflection with fellow pilgrims at the albergue. It was a wonderful and fulfilling day.
Camino de Santiago: Day 17 - Burgos (June 30, 2014)
Description: Due to a city holiday, I had to change plans and stay an extra day in Burgos. I met Szilvia from Hungary, who decided to join me for a trip to Santo Domingo de Silos the next day. We checked into the 16-bed Hospital de Peregrinos Santiago y Santa Catalina, appreciating its central location and free WiFi. Reconnecting with Bradforde, who also stayed another day, we planned the visit together. After a hearty lunch, I relaxed at the albergue and enjoyed music with fellow pilgrims. Dinner at Plaza del Rey San Fernando was delicious, affirming Burgos as Spain's gastronomic capital. Despite nearby fireworks, I slept soundly, reflecting on the enjoyable day.
Camino de Santiago: Day 18 - Burgos to Santo Domingo de Silos (July 01, 2014)
Description: I spent a restful day in Burgos, enjoying breakfast with friends and exploring tapas bars. At 5:30 pm, Szilvia, Bradforde, and I took a bus to Santo Domingo de Silos, arriving at 6:30 pm. It felt strange to be moving at bus speed after days of walking at a much slower pace. We checked into the Santo Domingo Hotel, relishing the luxury of proper amenities. We attended the 7 pm vespers at the Church of San Sebastian, experiencing the monks' divine singing. I met Victoria, a vibrant local, who shared the town's rich history and upcoming Feast of St. Isabella. The day ended comfortably, watching the US vs. Belgium World Cup game from the hotel room.
Camino de Santiago: Day 19 - Santo Domingo de Silos (July 02, 2014)
Description: Today, I experienced the inner journey of the Camino in Santo Domingo de Silos. With little to see or do, the focus was on attending Mass and the Liturgy of the Hours at the 18th-century Church of San Sebastian, where monks sang Gregorian chants. Attending two Masses and receiving Holy Communion twice was thought-provoking, highlighting the balance between solemnity and festivity. The interdependence between the monks and the town was beautifully simple. The more services I attended, the calmer and more at peace I became. The 11th-century Monastery Cloister was also a noteworthy attraction.
Camino de Santiago: Day 20 - Santo Domingo de Silos to Rabe de las Calzadas (via Burgos) (July 03, 2014)
Description: After several rest days, I was eager to resume the Camino. Leaving Santo Domingo de Silos on an 8:10 am bus, I arrived in Burgos by 9:40 am. After parting ways with Szilvia, I joyfully resumed walking at 11 am. A kind family wished me "buen camino," amazed at my journey from St. Jean Pied de Port. Just after Villalbilla de Burgos, I met Maria, an elementary school teacher who helped me find an alternate route. This encounter taught me trust and humility. Despite some rain, I reached Rabe de las Calzadas by 2:15 pm, covering 11 km. Staying at Albergue Liberanos Domine, I enjoyed a restful evening with dinner and vespers at the nearby convent. The day highlighted the importance of faith and community on the Camino.
Camino de Santiago: Day 21 - Rabe de las Calzadas to Castrojeriz (July 04, 2014)
Description: Today, I left Albergue Liberanos Domine at 7 am and walked 28 km with fellow albergue mates, Lucas, Lucas, and Didac. The trail was mostly flat and unshaded. We stopped in Hontanas for a second breakfast, where Lucas kindly carried my day pack for a while. I felt a mix of gratitude and humility, learning to graciously accept help when offered. My blisters returned, but I managed them. Arriving in Castrojeriz at 1:30 pm, we checked into Albergue de Peregrinos Ultreia for 10 euros, including breakfast and free WiFi. After showering and laundry, we enjoyed a 3-course pilgrims' lunch. The easy, inexpensive life on the Camino continues to draw people back.
Camino de Santiago: Day 22 - Castrojeriz to Fromista (July 05, 2014)
Description: Today's trail highlights included climbing a 100 m hill, crossing the medieval Puente Fitero bridge over the Pisuerga River, entering Palencia province, walking alongside the breezy 18th-century Canal de Castilla, and visiting the 11th-century San Martin de Tours Church in Fromista. I walked 26 km in about 6 hours, enjoying perfect weather and a brisk pace. Wearing sandals for the first time on the trail provided relief from blisters. I met a Pepperdine University student walking for a Summer Spanish immersion course, which made me reflect on the Camino's secular versus spiritual significance. A minor crisis arose when I urgently needed a restroom, but I was relieved to find a hospital de peregrinos with a clean facility, a true God-send. The day concluded with a visit to the 11th-century San Martin de Tours Church and a blessing at the 8 pm Mass at San Pedro Church.
Camino de Santiago: Day 23 - Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes (July 06, 2014)
Description: I left Fromista at 7 am and walked 22 km to arrive in Carrion de Los Condes at noon. The weather was unpleasant, with heavy showers drenching me between Villalcazar de Sirga and Carrion de Los Condes. After checking into Albergue Santa Maria, I quickly visited the plazas and two churches before they closed for the day. A highlight was seeing a shepherd and his herd, reminding me of Psalm 23. The day ended with communal singing at the albergue and a special Pilgrims' blessing at the Church of Santa Maria.
Camino de Santiago: Day 24 - Carrion de Los Condes to Terradillos de los Templarios (July 07, 2014)
Description: Today, I crossed the half-way mark! The trail was flat and dull, especially the first 17 km stretch with no villages. The only bar in Calzadilla de la Cueza felt like salvation after 3.5 hours of walking. I left Carrion de Los Condes at 6:30 am and arrived in Terradillos de los Templarios at 12:30 pm, covering 26.5 km. After the usual shower-laundry routine at Albergue Peregrinos Jacques de Molay, I enjoyed a huge cheese baguette sandwich and took a nap. Dinner at the albergue restaurant was splendid: cream of asparagus soup, trout with salad, vanilla pudding, red wine, and bread. I had amusing conversations in my limited French with a French couple and a Portuguese man now living in Paris. The day was fulfilling and marked a significant milestone on my journey.
Camino de Santiago: Day 25 - Terradillos de los Templarios to Sahagun de Campos (July 08, 2014)
Description: Today was an easy day. I woke up later than usual at 7 am and started walking at 8:10 am after breakfast at the albergue restaurant. Watching the morning's "Running of the Bulls" on TV made me chuckle. The Camino's gift to me today was walking through sunflower fields, all facing the rising sun. After walking 14 km, I arrived in Sahagun at 11 am and checked into Albergue Municipal "La Trinidad." Unfortunately, the albergue wasn't ideal, lacking sufficient power outlets and stable water temperatures in the showers. After a self-made pasta lunch, I explored Sahagun's monuments, appreciating its rich history. I visited the 13th-century Ermita de la Virgen del Puente, the 13th-century Church of San Lorenzo, the 17th-century Capilla de Jesus (Museo de la Semana Santa), the Torre del Reloj - San Mancio (Monasterio de San Benito), the 17th-century Arco de San Benito, the Monasterio de Santa Cruz (M.M. Benedictinas), and the 12th-century Church of San Tirso. The day was peaceful and satisfying.
Camino de Santiago: Day 26 - Sahagun de Campos to El Burgo Ranero (July 09, 2014)
Description: Thanking God for another easy day, I walked 18 km from Sahagun de Campos, starting at 6:40 am and arriving in El Burgo Ranero at 11 am. I enjoyed having Albergue La Laguna to myself for a few hours before other pilgrims arrived. I took my time with showering and laundry, then rested outside and chatted with Vincente, an eccentric yet happy hospitalero who gifted me a bottle of red wine. After a healthy self-made lunch, I shared the wine with him and others and took a relaxing siesta. The simple life was blissful, and I felt grateful for the opportunity to rest and recharge for the remaining journey.
Camino de Santiago: Day 27 - El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas (July 10, 2014)
Description: What a blessed day! I walked 18.7 km from El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas, starting at 7 am and arriving at 11:30 am. The sun's warm rays felt like God's embrace, reminding me of St. Patrick's blessing. I also felt blessed by my encounter with Rolf, a heart bypass survivor from Germany who was making a video to inspire heart patients. His courage and gratitude were truly inspiring. The terrain was flat and easy, and the sights were dull, but the locals were friendly and helpful. In Mansilla de las Mulas, I visited the 18th-century Church of Santa Maria, the 12th-century Puerta Castillo, Plaza del Pozo, Plaza Mayor, El Postigo, Plaza de Grano, the 12th-century Church of San Martin, Casa de la Picara Justina from 1605, the 12th-century Arco de Santa Maria, Torres Albarranas, the 12th-century Arco de San Agustin, and the Museo Etnografico. Lunch was a delicious 3-course meal, including tuna, egg, and potato salad, fried trout, and flan.
Camino de Santiago: Day 28 - Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon (July 11, 2014)
Description: Today, I walked 19.5 km (12.1 miles) in 4.5 hours without a second breakfast stop. As I approached Leon, I saw more industries and towns along the trail. I was apprehensive about accommodation but received helpful tips from a volunteer. A senora and later the albergue's in-charge man guided me to Albergue Miguel de Unamuno. Since it was full, they offered me a flat for 10 euros a night, providing luxurious comfort. After a late lunch at Plaza Regla next to the 12th- to 13th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria, I explored Leon's historical sites, including the Murallas, Calle Ancha, Casa de Botines, Palacio de Los Condes de Luna (with its original 16th-century wooden ceiling), San Salvador del Palat del Rey (a former 10th-century monastery), and attended the 7:30 pm Pilgrims' Mass at Real Colegiata de San Isidoro. The day was long and tiring, but I'm looking forward to a rest day of sight-seeing in Leon tomorrow. Yay!
Camino de Santiago: Day 29 - Leon (July 12, 2014)
Description: Today, I visited several significant sites in Leon. 1) The Cathedral of Leon, also known as the Cathedral of Santa Maria, originally constructed in the mid-13th century and completed in the 14th century. This French Gothic-inspired cathedral boasts rib-vault ceilings and 125 medieval stained glass windows covering 1,800 square meters. (€5 entrance fee) 2) The Museo de Leon, which houses masterworks such as the Christ of Carrizo and the Votive Cross of Santiago de Penalba. (Free entrance) 3) The Museo and Pantheon of the Real Colegiata de San Isidoro, featuring the Chalice of Agates (or Queen Urraca's Chalice), said to be the Holy Grail. (€5 entrance fee) 4) The Convento de San Marcos, formerly the motherhouse of the Order of the Knights of Santiago, now a parador or luxury hotel dating back to the 16th century. Leon's truly a beautiful city, and I'm glad I stayed an extra day. However, it's back on the Camino for me tomorrow.
Camino de Santiago: Day 30 - Leon to Villadangos del Paramo (July 13, 2014)
Description: Today was a mix of challenges and reflections. I had hoped for a shorter walk, but had to extend my journey to Villadangos del Paramo due to the closure of Casa del Camino in Valverde de la Virgen. This unexpected 20 km (12.4 miles) trek in the harsh mid-day sun took 5 hours, from 9 am to 2 pm. The day started with a disappointing breakfast in Leon, where my favorite patata tortilla wasn't available. Upon arriving in Villadangos del Paramo, I was dismayed to find the large group of university students from L.A. at the municipal albergue, disrupting the peace I craved. Despite my initial frustration, I reminded myself to live and let live, recognizing the Camino as a place for everyone. I reflected on the importance of adapting my attitude and learning to love each person I encounter. I ended the day at the municipal albergue in Villadangos del Paramo, enjoying a foot-long tuna and cheese sandwich for lunch.
Camino de Santiago: Day 31 - Villadangos del Paramo to Hospital de Orbigo (July 14, 2014)
Description: Congratulations to Germany for winning the World Cup 2014! After watching the first 90 minutes last night, I learned of their victory this morning. I had breakfast at a hotel restaurant in Villadangos del Paramo and witnessed a particularly gory "Running of the Bulls" on TV. I started my walk at 8:30 am and reached Hospital de Orbigo in 2.5 hours, covering 11.5 km (7.1 miles). I was glad to spend the night at the well-reviewed albergue parroquial de peregrinos of San Juan Bautista. The well-preserved medieval Orbigo bridge left me astonished, both for its length and beauty. For lunch, I enjoyed the local specialty, sopa de trucha (bread and trout soup), followed by trout and chips, and flan for dessert. Tonight, I'll attend Mass at the Church of San Juan Bautista and a reflection at the albergue.
Camino de Santiago: Day 32 - Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga (July 15, 2014)
Description: Last night's Mass was profound, revealing that true peace comes from within. Fr. Manuel emphasized that the Camino is for everyone, regardless of background. Today, I walked 17 km (10.5 miles) from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga in 5 hours. The vibrant market at Plaza Mayor welcomed me, and I received a free tomato from a kind vendor. I checked into Albergue San Javier, enjoying its amenities and the generous hospitalero, Louisa. I explored the Cathedral, its museum, and the Bishop's Palace. Despite WiFi issues, I found a connection at a hotel while sipping peregrino wine. Astorga's sweets were a delight.
Camino de Santiago: Day 33 - Astorga to Rabanal del Camino (July 16, 2014)
Description: Today, I walked 21 km (13.3 miles) from 6:30-11:30 am, climbing 282 m uphill to Rabanal del Camino. The scorching hot weather made me grateful to find Albergue Gauselmo and wait for it to open. I spent time with Fr. Peter, a Polish priest, learning about Gregorian music. Highlights of the trail included meeting Fred, a German pilgrim walking home after completing the Camino, and visiting Ermita del Ecce Homo. I also encountered a joyful group starting their Camino from Astorga, including Enrique, a pilgrim in a wheelchair. The trail was busy between Astorga and Murias de Rechivaldo due to a large group of Spanish students. In Rabanal, I enjoyed a 3-course pilgrim's lunch and afternoon tea with fellow pilgrims. The day ended with evening prayers at the Monasterio Benedictino of San Salvador Del Monte Irago. I'm thankful for the blessings and special encounters on the Camino.
Camino de Santiago: Day 34 - Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo de San Miguel (July 17, 2014)
Description: Today's trek included a climb to Camino Frances' highest point, Cruz de Ferro (1,500 m), where I let go of stones I brought from home, symbolizing release and relief. The 16 km (9.9 miles) walk from Rabanal del Camino to El Acebo de San Miguel took 4 hours and 15 minutes, ending at a new, hotel-like albergue with top-notch facilities for just 10 euros a night. Highlights included the picturesque hills, encountering a barefoot pilgrim, and enjoying a Gazpacho and Tinto de Verano lunch. I ended the day with a 3-course Pilgrim's dinner at the albergue with Boris from the Czech Republic.
Camino de Santiago: Day 35 - El Acebo de San Miguel to Ponferrada (July 18, 2014)
Description: Last night, a drunk room-mate disrupted sleep by urinating on the floor and a fellow pilgrim's belongings. Despite the disturbance, I really admired her calm attitude. I walked 16.5 km (10.2 miles) from 6:45 am to 11:00 am today, ending in Ponferrada. Albergue Alea in Ponferrada, opened on June 25, 2014, felt like home with its clean, comfortable amenities and kind hostesses, Esperanza and Amelia. The highlight was visiting the 12th-century Castillo de los Templarios, a fortified castle worth exploring. In Ponferrada, I also reunited with my favorite breakfast of tortilla patata and hot chocolate. I explored Plaza del Ayuntamiento, the City Hall (Ayuntamiento), the Clock Tower (Torre del Reloj), and the Basilica Nuestra Senora de la Encina. I also visited the 17th- to 18th-century Church of St. Andrew and the 16th-century Convento de la Purisima Concepcion, where I met a sweet old nun who wished me "Buen Camino" and gave me a stamp on my credencial. Today's trek was easy except for the downhill to Molinaseca. My stamina has improved, allowing longer periods of walking without rest.
Camino de Santiago: Day 36 - Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo (July 19, 2014)
Description: Today, I left Albergue Alea at 7 am after a hearty breakfast and walked 23 km (14.2 miles) in 6 hours and 15 minutes. It rained for most of the trek, but I was gifted with a rainbow, amazing cloud formations, and fog on the hills. I crossed several towns and stopped at churches to give thanks and get stamps on my credencial. I walked with a free-spirited Peruvian and had an interesting conversation about spirituality and personality, though I felt uncomfortable when he shared personal issues. I chose to stay at the private Albergue San Nicolas El Real, enjoying the comfort of an en-suite room with two other girls. Feeling a bit melancholy as I near the end of my journey, I remind myself to cherish every moment, even the muddy ground and cold rain of today.
Camino de Santiago: Day 37 - Villafranca del Bierzo to La Faba (July 20, 2014)
Description: I took an alternate mountain route today, enjoying gorgeous mountain views, a walk through a cloud and woods, and hot chocolate in the remote village of Pradela. Descending the mountain, my companion and I met an elderly lady who inquired if we had spent the night there. Despite our search, we couldn't find tortilla con patata. We passed several villages, climbing 410 m in total. The stretch between Hospital de los Ingleses and La Faba was the hardest, with steep, muddy terrain, reminiscent of the Inca trail. Rain persisted for the second day, preventing laundry. I'm staying at the German-run Albergue Pilger-Herberge in La Faba for 5 euros a night. Late-arriving pilgrims were given mattresses in the Church of St. Andrew. For lunch, I enjoyed a 3-course Pilgrims' menu.
Camino de Santiago: Day 38 - La Faba to Fillobal (July 21, 2014)
Description: I left the damp and noisy La Faba at 6:30 am and enjoyed a sunny, scenic hike today. Though I couldn't stay in Fonfria, I found a pleasant albergue in Fillobal. Next to it was a bar (aira do camino) with excellent food and drinks. I finally did my laundry and dried it in the hot sun. I bid farewell to the province of Leon and entered Lugo in the Galicia community. It felt surreal to see the Galicia sign, marking my journey from Navarra to Galicia. I walked 22 km (13.6 miles) from La Faba to Fillobal in 5.5 hours. My feet and legs are strong, thanks to the daily half-marathon distance.
Camino de Santiago: Day 39 - Fillobal to Samos (July 22, 2014)
Description: Today, I walked a shorter distance of 14 km (8.7 miles) from Fillobal to Samos, starting at 7:40 am after breakfast at aira do camino bar. I arrived in Samos at 11:15 am, enjoying the golden silence and stunning scenery, including foggy highways, forests, river valleys, green meadows, and rural villages. Samos is anchored by the 6th-century Benedictine Monastery and the 9th-century Cypress chapel. Despite basic amenities at Albergue de Peregrinos Monasterio de Samos, I appreciated the refuge. I enjoyed the Albaroque bar across from the albergue, where the friendly staff offered free samples. The Monastery tour (3 euros) was interesting, though I wished I understood Spanish. I attended the 7:30 pm Liturgy of the Hours service and the 8 pm Mass at the Monastery's church.
Camino de Santiago: Day 40 - Samos to Sarria (July 23, 2014)
Description: Today, I walked 11.9 km (7.4 miles) from Samos to Sarria, leaving at 6:50 am and arriving at 10:50 am. Reaching Sarria on day 40 was poignant, as this is where pilgrims must start to receive a certificate of completion in Santiago de Compostela. With only about 112 km (69.4 miles) left, I feel ready to end this journey. Unlike those who rush through, I'm glad I took my time to explore and sight-see, capturing many photos and uploading them daily to my blog. This has enriched my experience and allowed me to appreciate every moment.
Camino de Santiago: Day 41 - Sarria to Portomarin (July 24, 2014)
Description: I walked 22.4 km (13.9 miles) from Sarria to Portomarin today, starting at 6:15 am and arriving at 11:30 am. For the first time on this Camino, I used a head lamp to navigate the early morning darkness. Seeing another pilgrim's flashlight reassured me I wasn't alone. Along the way, I crossed many small rural villages, stopping at Casa Morgade around 9 am for tea and toasts. The trail was less crowded than expected, likely due to pilgrims heading to Santiago for the Feast Day of St. James tomorrow. I'm staying at Albergue Ultreia in Portomarin. After arriving, I explored the town, visited the Church of San Nicolas de Portomarin, and enjoyed a 3-course menu del dia for 10 euros. "Ultreia," a medieval greeting encouraging perseverance, feels fitting for the journey. The word "Buen Camino!" is its modern counterpart.
Camino de Santiago: Day 42 - Portomarin to Melide (July 25, 2014)
Description: In honor of Apostle James' feast day, I ended up walking 42 km (26 miles) from Portomarin to Melide today. Originally planning to stop at Palas de Rei after 26 km (16.1 miles), I felt energized to continue. I encountered someone I wanted to avoid, which motivated me to walk further. I decided to reach Melide, arriving at 4 pm after 10 hours on the trail. In Melide, I reunited with friends from Rabanal and finally tried the local delicacy, pulpo (octopus), which was tasty but heavy. I'm staying at Albergue Pereira for 10 euros a night and enjoyed catching up with fellow pilgrims.
Camino de Santiago: Day 43 - Melide to Pedrouzo O Pino (July 26, 2014)
Description: On my second last day, I walked 34 km (21 miles) from Melide to Pedrouzo O Pino in 9 hours. Despite the challenge of two consecutive long walks, I'm glad I did it. Tomorrow, I only have 20 km (12.4 miles) left to Santiago de Compostela, and I'm excited for the end of this journey. The constant moving and dealing with inconsiderate strangers can be tough, and I miss home. This journey has been an incredible experience, but I can't imagine spending my entire life on the Camino. I left Melide at 6 am, walking in darkness until 7 am. Along the way, I had tea in Boente, passed through Ribadiso and Arzua, and enjoyed hot chocolate at Vazquez Panaderia. I received a stamp from the Sisters of Santa Maria de la Providencia and had fresh orange juice in Calzada. I arrived in Pedrouzo O Pino at 3 pm and stayed at Albergue Turistico Cruceiro de Pedrouzo O Pino, which was disappointing. After a long walk, I had a 3-course menu del dia for 10 euros. One more day to Santiago! Onwards, upwards!
Camino de Santiago: Day 44 - Pedrouzo O Pino to Santiago de Compostela (July 27, 2014)
Description: Well, folks, I am officially done with the Camino! Woohoo!!! Today's walk brought a flood of sentimental memories from the start to the end - the good and the bad, the people I met, the meals I had, the varied landscapes, and the diverse weather. The entire adventure has been nothing short of amazing. The arrival into Santiago was a bit frantic. Even though I arrived at 11 am, I missed the 12 pm Mass because my backpack wasn't allowed in the Cathedral. Unfortunately, the long line at the Pilgrims' Office where I went to get my stamp and Compostela and to store my backpack caused me to miss the 12 pm Mass, but I attended the 7:30 pm Mass later. After receiving my Compostela, I treated myself to a lunch buffet and checked into Albergue Seminario Menor Assumption in Santiago, where I enjoyed a peaceful single room for 15 euros. Later, I visited the tomb of Apostle St. James inside the Cathedral. To end the day, I had a Bailey's hot chocolate nightcap at Cafe Casino, a classy spot in Santiago that reminded me of Cafe Iruna in Pamplona. I plan to rest and sight-see in Santiago for a day or two.
Camino de Santiago: Santiago de Compostela (July 28 & 29, 2014)
Description: Resting and sight-seeing in historic Santiago has been wonderful, but reclaiming my personal space has been the best part. Having a single room for 3 consecutive nights at 15 euros a night has been unbelievably great. The luxury of sleeping in till 8:30 am is a close second. I've enjoyed leisurely strolls along Santiago's labyrinth streets, centered around the Cathedral, stopping for drinks, snacks, or tapas whenever I felt like it. The buskers on the streets were impressive, from an opera singer to a rock band, magicians, and a white Gandhi. I also saw beggars, likely Romas, outside the Cathedral and along the streets. They were kneeling with heads down and hands outstretched, holding a cup. An old lady gave a young boy a coin and asked why he wasn't working; he looked sad and didn't reply. Tomorrow, I will start my Camino Fisterra, which should take about 4 days to walk to the west coast and the lighthouse—a fitting end to my Camino.
Camino Fisterra: Day 1 - Santiago de Compostela to Negreira (July 30, 2014)
Description: I had a great first day on the Camino Fisterra, enjoying less crowded trails and delightful scenery, including oak groves, eucalyptus trees, modern homes, rural villages, and the stunning 14th-century A Ponte Maceira bridge over the River Tambre. I met Joaquin, a pilgrim from Bilbao, and later connected with Ainhoa and her dog, Malao. We took our time, stopping for breakfast and lunch along the way. By the time we arrived in Negreira at 2:30 pm, I was relieved to check into El Carmen Albergue, a centrally located hostel with a restaurant downstairs. We covered 22 km (13.6 miles) today. For dinner, I enjoyed a 3-course meal at the albergue's restaurant, starting with seafood pasta, followed by grilled salmon with potatoes, and finishing with an ice cream cake for dessert.
Camino Fisterra: Day 2 - Negreira to Olveiroa (July 31, 2014)
Description: This pilgrim is t-i-r-e-d. I walked 33.4 km (20.7 miles) today from 6:30 am to 2:30 pm, with stops in Vilacerio for breakfast and Mazaricos for lunch. The hot sun was debilitating, and the trail's undulating terrains left my feet and legs sore. The pervasive smells of cow manure and fertilizer added to the challenge. The plan is to finish my Camino tomorrow at Fisterra by walking the final 35 km in one day, hoping to catch the sunset on a clear day before the forecasted rain. Tonight, I'm resting at the basic Municipal albergue in Olveiroa (6 euros a night). Time to rest... ta luego.
Camino Fisterra: Day 3 - Olveiroa to Fisterra (Finisterre) (August 01, 2014)
Description: I made a last push to Fisterra (Finisterre) from Olveiroa, walking 35 km (21.7 miles) today. Starting at 7 am, I arrived in Fisterra at 2 pm, exhausted with sore feet but happy. The scenery included the River Xallas, A Nosa Senora das Neves (18th century), stunning coastal views, and finally seeing the ocean. I felt better prepared and ready for my end at Fisterra than my finish at Santiago. The weather was superb, and I witnessed a beautiful sunset near the lighthouse, marking the end of my Camino. I stayed in a single room at Pension Cabo Finisterre (18 euros a night) and enjoyed a 3-course meal with fish soup, seafood paella, and strawberry mousse (12 euros). My Camino ended at the lighthouse, and I am grateful, contented, and proud of how far I've come with God's help. "... surely goodness and mercy shall follow me all the days of my life and I shall dwell in the House of the Lord forever more." Amen.
A Video on Camino Frances and Camino Fisterra (Summer 2014)
Post-Camino:
Lisbon, Portugal (August 4-7, 2014)Algarve region (Lagos, Salema, Sagres), Portugal (August 08-12, 2014)
Sintra, Portugal (August 13, 2014)
Park and Palace of Pena, Sintra, Portugal (August 14, 2014)
Moorish Castle, Sintra, Portugal (August 15, 2014)
Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal (August 16, 2014)
Cabo da Roca, Portugal (August 16, 2014)
Lisbon and Belem, Portugal (August 18 & 19, 2014)
Fatima, Portugal (August 20 & 21, 2014)
Porto, Portugal - Part I (August 22 & 23, 2014)
Porto, Portugal - Part II (August 24-26, 2014)
Braga, Portugal (August 27, 2014)
Porto, Portugal - Part III (August 28, 2014)
Guimaraes, Portugal (August 29, 2014)
Porto, Portugal - Part IV (August 30-31, 2014)
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