Walk with Sandra: Returning to Hanoi, Vietnam After 19 Years: A Vacation with My Parents (August 11-15, 2025)

After nearly two decades, I returned to Hanoi -- this time with my parents by my side. The city has transformed in remarkable ways. The highway from Nội Bài International Airport to the historic Old Quarter felt as sleek and modern as Singapore’s. Crossing the Nhật Tân Bridge, also known as the Vietnam-Japan Friendship Bridge, I was reminded of the Bay Bridge as we approached San Francisco. This striking cable-stayed bridge spans the Red River, linking the airport to central Hanoi, including the Old Quarter.

Above right: Waiting for the Grab driver at Platform 11 in Nội Bài International Airport (Arrival Hall)

Above left: Approaching the Nhật Tân Bridge

✈️ Travel & Logistics

Visa: A single-entry visa for U.S. citizens costs $25 and can be applied for online.
Flights: Our three round-trip tickets from Phnom Penh to Hanoi on AirAsia totaled $573, including a $6 KHQR code processing fee.
Currency: At the time of travel, $1 USD was equivalent to approximately 26,000 VND -- a significant improvement from the 16,000 VND rate I remembered from 19 years ago.
E-sim: I used the Xin Chao 1 GB – 7 Days plan from Airalo, which cost just $3.30 after applying $1.20 in Airmoney from a previous eSIM purchase for Italy. Over the course of five days in Vietnam, I only used 312MB, making it a cost-effective and reliable option for light data needs.
Transportation: Grab rides are an easy and affordable way to get around. While Hanoi doesn’t have tuk-tuks like Cambodia, its private-hire cars are clean, air-conditioned, and reliable. Most rides cost around $1.50 each way. The Grab ride from the airport to our hotel in the Old Quarter was just $11.33 for a 35–40 minute journey.

🏨 Where We Stayed

We spent four nights at Hanoi L’Heritage Hotel, averaging $60/night with breakfast included. The hospitality was exceptional from the moment we arrived. The staff were warm, attentive, and genuinely helpful -- never pushy. Special thanks to Jollie, who kindly helped us secure excellent seats for the water puppet show on our second night.

The daily breakfast buffet was a highlight for my parents. They absolutely loved it! The spread was generous and varied, offering both Western and Eastern options to suit every palate.

Above right: Our Triple Deluxe Room 205

Above left: My first breakfast on Aug 12

Above: My second breakfast on Aug 13

Above left: My third breakfast on Aug 14; Above right: My last breakfast on Aug 15

Above: View from our upgraded suite 701

🏙️ First Impressions

Hanoi felt orderly and clean. Even the garbage trucks played cheerful tunes -- reminiscent of the melody a washing machine makes when a cycle ends. I was charmed by the energy of the Old Quarter. Its architecture, a delightful mix of narrow, old-colonial shophouses, gave the streets a timeless character. Wandering through the district felt like stepping back in time. I loved it.

📅 Monday, August 11, 2025

Dinner at L’essence De Cuisine – 99B Hàng Gai

For our first evening, we dined at L’essence De Cuisine, a serene and elegant spot in the heart of the Old Quarter. We arrived around four P.M. and were seated promptly, though we later learned that peak hours fill up quickly, so reservations are highly recommended.

We chose the three-person set meal priced at 1,990,000 VND; with a 5% service fee, the total came to 2,090,000 VND (about $80.38). For the quality, variety, and generous portions, it was well worth the price.

Upon seating, we were welcomed with wet towels and crispy deep-fried rice chips. The appetizer, the Royal Garden Soup, was a creamy green delight made from sponge gourd and aromatic spices. It was a standout: flavorful and the perfect way to awaken the palate.

The four main course dishes included: Royal fried shrimp served with a mango-infused dipping sauce, colorful rainbow noodles with vegetables, fried beef in bamboo on fire, and grilled fish. Dessert featured a selection of seasonal tropical fruits. The set meal comes with a healthy fresh fruit drink.

Their impeccable service and refined decor elevated the meal into a memorable experience. This place truly lives up to its stellar reputation -- a must-visit when in Hanoi!

📅 Tuesday, August 12, 2025

Exploring Hanoi’s Heartbeat: Lakeside Strolls, Hidden Cafés, and Cultural Gems

We began the morning with a gentle walk to Hoan Kiem Lake, pausing for photos by the water and the iconic red bridge leading to Ngoc Son Temple. From there, we visited Hanoia House at 38 P. Hàng Đào -- a beautifully refurbished colonial home turned boutique, offering high-end, Vietnamese-made goods.

To escape the heat, we ducked into Cafe Phố Cổ, a hidden gem with vintage decor and a rooftop view of the lake. We ordered iced salt coffee, egg coffee, and two lime juices with honey -- all for 200,000 VND (~$7.69). It was a peaceful retreat.

Above left: Egg coffee (left) and iced salt coffee (right)

We then strolled around the lake toward Trang Tien Plaza, an air-conditioned mall with luxury brands. It wasn’t quite our style, so we turned back toward the historic center.

With our water puppet show at Thang Long Theatre scheduled for three p.m., we enjoyed a leisurely lunch nearby at Lake View Side Restaurant. Our meal, four fresh rolls, bun cha gio, pineapple shrimp fried rice, and three iced teas, came to 556,000 VND (~$21.38).

After lunch, we relaxed at Giao Mua Coffee, a trendy five-story café with a cave-like interior. Two Americanos (hot and cold) and a matcha latte totaled 190,000 VND (~$7.30).

The 45-minute water puppet show at Thang Long Theatre was a whimsical introduction to Vietnamese folklore. We booked middle-row first-class seats for 200,000 VND (~$7.69) each. The air-conditioned theatre featured live musicians and singers positioned on either side of the pool. Though the songs were sung in Vietnamese and I couldn't follow the storyline, the colorful, animated characters dancing in thigh-deep water were captivating.

After the show, we returned to the hotel to rest.

Dinner was at Hanoi Corner Restaurant, a cozy, family-friendly spot with traditional dishes. We ordered braised eggplant with tofu, stir-fried noodles with chicken, okra tomato sour soup, one bowl of rice, and three iced jasmine teas -- all for 432,000 VND (~$16.61).

We tipped Lobi, our attentive server, 40,000 VND for his gracious service. In contrast, the previous female server had tried to upsell us on drinks and abruptly stopped taking our order mid-sentence to greet another couple -- a gesture that felt dismissive and rude.

📅 Wednesday, August 13, 2025

A Day of History and Heritage

After breakfast at the hotel, we took a Grab ride to the Temple of Literature, Vietnam’s first university, set in tranquil gardens. Entrance fees were 70,000 VND (~$2.69) per person.

It was heartening to see how well-preserved the site remains, complete with lush gardens and five courtyards -- all designed to honor literacy and the legacy of scholars and professors. Originally built in 1070, the temple began as a place of learning for princes and children of noble families. In 1253, it expanded to admit outstanding students from common families as well.

Because Vietnamese of any social status were allowed to take exams and study at the university, it became a vital educational center - one that helped elevate talented individuals and improve their social standing upon graduation. The names of successful scholars, or "doctors," were inscribed on stone stelae, forever etched in memory. These 82 stone stelae are now recognized by UNESCO as Memory of the World documents and designated by the Vietnamese government as national treasures.

Above left: The four pillars of the Great Gate at the Temple of Literature, marking the entrance to Vietnam's first university, where for over 700 years scholars entered to pursue Confucian learning.

Above left: The Khuê Văn Các was built in 1805 and is a symbol of Hanoi; Above right: The Third Courtyard of the temple with the Thiên Quang well

Above right: The red Khuê Văn pavilion

Above left: The stone stelae of doctors, carved from bluestone and supported by turtle bases, commemorate 1,307 graduates who passed doctoral examinations between 1442-1779. Though weathered by time, these 82 surviving monuments preserve the names and birthplaces of Vietnam's greatest scholars, embodying the nation's enduring reverence for learning and academic merit.

Above right: The Fourth Courtyard

Above left: Buddha's hand citrons displayed as temple offerings at Hanoi's Temple of Literature - their fragrant, finger-like segments make them prized ceremonial fruits in Vietnamese Buddhist tradition.

Above left: A golden turtle statue symbolizing longevity and wisdom in Vietnamese culture. Turtles are one of the four sacred animals and serve as the traditional base for the stone stelae that commemorate doctoral graduates, representing the enduring nature of scholarly achievement.

Above left: Longan trees flourish alongside the Fourth and Fifth Courtyards; Above right: A traditional study booth where Imperial Academy students once prepared for rigorous examinations during their 3-7 years of Confucian studies. These individual carrels provided focused study space for centuries of Vietnamese scholars.

Above right: The entrance to the Fifth Courtyard, once home to the Imperial Academy's residential quarters where scholars lived and studied, reconstructed in 2000 to honor Vietnam's educational heritage

Above right: The bronze bell was historically rung to announce the arrival of distinguished visitors to the temple complex.

Above left: The ceremonial drum, traditionally used to call people to gather for rituals and festivals, marks the beginning and end of important ceremonies with rhythmic beats that honor Vietnam's educational traditions.

Above right: The altar of Chu Văn An (1292-1370), Vietnam's most revered educator and first principal of the Imperial Academy at the Temple of Literature. Appointed during the Trần dynasty to teach princes, he emphasized moral cultivation alongside academic learning and became the model for Vietnamese educators. After his death, he was honored with worship alongside Confucius, and today his legacy lives on in schools across Vietnam that bear his name.

Next, we took a short five-minute Grab ride to the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its ancient architecture and layered history. Entrance fees were 100,000 VND (~$3.85) per person.

The site could benefit from clearer signage, especially at the reception area, where it was a bit confusing to locate the South Gate (Doan Mon). This gate, dating back to the Lê Dynasty, once served as the main entrance and exit for kings.

The historical museum, or archaeological site, was particularly impressive. We viewed artifacts spanning eight dynasties, offering a sweeping glimpse into Vietnam's imperial past:

Dai La Period (7th-9th centuries)
Đinh and Early Lê Dynasties (10th century)
Lý Dynasty (1009 - 1225)
Trần Dynasty (1226-1400)
Later Lê Dynasty – Early Period (Lê Sơ) (1428-1527)
Mạc Dynasty (1527-1592)
Later Lê Dynasty – Revival Period (Lê Trung Hưng) (1592-1789)
Nguyễn Dynasty (1802-1945)

After our visit to the Citadel, we grabbed a ride to Essence Restaurant Original, located at 38A Trần Phú Street, Ba Đình District - just 500 meters from the Citadel. This elegant Vietnamese restaurant offers refined cuisine with healthy options.

We ordered grapefruit salad, Huế imperial fried rolls, pumpkin soup with salmon, minced duck with lemongrass, and three iced jasmine teas -- all for 1,210,091 VND (~$46.54).

After lunch, we took another Grab ride back to the hotel to rest.

Later in the afternoon, I walked to Dessert by Trung Le and indulged in five desserts for 225,000 VND (~$8.65). Each one was delicious -- a sweet highlight of the day.

Dinner was a simple but satisfying noodle meal at MET Vietnamese Restaurant and Vegetarian Food 1, located at 25A Bát Đàn. Though not strictly vegetarian, the eatery is authentic and highly rated. We had Mì Quảng, Cao Lầu, Phở bò, and three iced green teas for 405,000 VND (~$15.57).

📅 Thursday, Aug 14, 2025

Train Street Thrills, Rainy Wanders, and Last Night in Hanoi

After breakfast, we headed to Hanoi Train Street. We were wide-eyed at the sight of shops lined tightly along the train tracks. Having heard that the next train would pass at 11:45 A.M., we picked a spot to rest and people-watched. We ordered three drinks (mango shake, avocado shake, and fresh orange juice) for 210,000 VND (~$8.07).

Vendors wandered the tracks selling souvenirs, cigarettes, and knickknacks. Tourists posed unabashedly, some setting up tripods for the perfect Instagram shot. I found the scene bizarre -- until the whistle blew, warning everyone to sit down. Moments later, the train thundered past at full speed, its tornado-like whirl and noise pulling us back instinctively. It was UNBELIEVABLE how close we were. We waited an hour for a 90-second experience -- and I loved every second of it.

After the train passed, the crowd erupted in claps and cheers. It was an exhilarating moment -- one that would never happen in the U.S., Europe, or other rights-oriented societies where lawsuits and safety regulations dominate. Somehow, the Vietnamese have turned this train-viewing ritual into a well-oiled system, with shop owners and railway staff working hand-in-hand to keep it safe and profitable. Kudos to them.

As it began to drizzle, we left the tracks and the crowds and grabbed a ride to Lotte Department Store, hoping for indoor shopping. Unfortunately, it turned out to be a single department store, so we left and walked, umbrellas in hand, to the nearby Vincom Center Metropolis, a larger mall.

Lunch was at Bareumi, a Korean restaurant where we ordered kimchi stew, soybean-based stew, and bibimbap for 367,200 VND (~$14.12). The meal came with free drink refills and a dessert of milk shaved ice with toppings.

After lunch, we returned to the hotel to rest. As it was our last night in Hanoi, we did some shopping at and around the Night Market before dinner. I bought jasmine tea and two pottery sets from Anne’s Maison for 290,000 VND (~$11.15), a pair of shorts for 70,000 VND (~$2.69), and a Vietnamese long dress top for 150,000 VND (~$5.77). I also negotiated a cabin suitcase for Mom down to 400,000 VND (~$15.38) from 550,000. Dad bought a pair of shorts for 100,000 VND (~$3.85).

Dinner was at Hong Hoai, where we enjoyed another round of authentic Vietnamese cuisine: bánh xèo gà (Vietnamese pancake with chicken), banana flower salad with shrimp, phở xào rau (stir-fried fresh noodles with vegetables), and three iced jasmine teas for 507,000 VND (~$19.50). The food was flavorful and the service prompt and friendly -- a genuinely enjoyable dining experience overall. However, I was surprised to be charged 25,000 VND for a simple cup of hot water. It felt excessive and left a slightly sour note at the end of an otherwise lovely meal.

📅 Friday, Aug 15, 2025

Farewell to Hanoi

I booked a hotel ride to Nội Bài International Airport for 300,000 VND (~$11.54). We spent the last of our VND on final souvenirs at the airport: bánh đậu xanh (mung bean cake), bánh đậu xanh khoai môn (mung bean and taro cake), and điều (cashew nuts) for $17.00.

My final meal in Hanoi was Bún Nem Hà Nội (deep-fried spring rolls with rice vermicelli) for $7.00. A splendid end to a delightful vacation in Vietnam’s capital.