This piece is written for those of you who dare to brave the sea of insanity that is the traffic of Phnom Penh. If you are inclined to venture out into the world of madness on a bicycle in Cambodia’s capital city, know this: there’s never a dull moment. After a process of struggle, trial, and error, I learned a few things to cope with and manage the insane traffic of Phnom Penh:
One, it is insanity in itself to expect others to follow the normal traffic rules in Cambodia's largest city (pop. 1.3 million). I learned to adjust myself to what is and to stop expecting everything to fit to my own agenda. In other words, acceptance is the answer. By finally coming to terms with the reality of the chaotic traffic situation in Phnom Penh, I not only found peace of mind, but I also enjoyed my rides more.
Two, criticizing harms me more than others. The challenge is for me to overcome my own imperfect tendencies to find fault with anything or anyone on the streets of Phnom Penh. I realized that the people around me don’t give a hoot at all. So what if the white Prius nonchalantly barged into my way or that the black Lexus obliviously drove into my path? Or, that the police sometimes controls traffic at the lights so that an entourage of some "important" folks can pass. Forget about it all, I say. I learned that it’s far better to conserve my breath and energy for the ride than to disagree with their behaviors. So, I let it all pass, and I let civility win.
Three, being present helps. I try to empty my mind and be acutely aware of my surroundings. I learned that no sooner had my mind started to wander than I come across a pothole, a “honey badger”-type driver going in the wrong direction, a random, oft asinine construction barrier, or a jaywalking pedestrian. The chances are highly probable, so I try to stay present.
Four, riding at my own pace is my own business. I always try to budget sufficient time for travel, so I’m not in a hurry to get to my destination. I cycle briskly in my own rhythm and meander slowly through the gaps of any sitting traffic to get ahead. I’m not affected by the obnoxious honks of any impatient driver who wants to pass me. Bullies cannot harass me - I simply ignore them. I have as much right as anyone to be on the road and at my own pace. I can’t imagine why anyone would want to drive a big ass car or truck on the narrow streets of Phnom Penh anyway. These are usually the same people who get impatient with cyclists and bikers who ride in front of them.
Five, courage is a must-have for all street crossings, so when an opportunity presents itself, I go for it. This includes the proclivity to beat red lights at traffic junctions only because “when in Rome, do as the Romans do.” When crossing streets sans traffic lights in Phnom Penh, I inch out slowly but firmly and then stare at the oncoming traffic like a deer in headlights. Most of the time, the oncoming traffic stops for me, but in other times, I just try to get out of its way. Where possible, I allow others to lead and then join them in the middle of the road, after they have created a barrier for me. It’s manic but this is what I gotta do to cross over.
Six, avoid motorbikers who haul cargo behind them, tuk-tuk drivers especially. Here’s the thing: while they ride a motorbike and can cosy up to other bikers or cyclists on the road, their wide cargo in the back, however, is hazardous and can hit others nearby. This triangulation setup of their transport stresses me out all the time, so I try to distance myself from them as much as I can.
Seven, don’t lose patience. There are random people on the road all the time and they make riding in Phnom Penh abnormally thrilling. Folks like parking attendants who stand on the road to guide cars out of their roadside parking spots and food sellers who push their carts on foot can sometimes block or slow down traffic. I simply ride around them. They, like most of us, are only trying to make a living and deserve patience and solidarity - not hostility from a few I’ve seen with a false sense of entitlement and pride who think the world revolves around them.
Eight, an attitude of gratitude can change perspectives. I'm always baffled by little acts of kindness I encounter on the road such as people who yield or signal before they make a turn. These acts may seem peripheral to many of you, but in light of the typical craziness I find on the streets of Phnom Penh, these displays of generosity and consideration uplift me, and I’m grateful for the hope they seed in me.
Nine, strengthen with regular maintenance of the temple and the ride. 99 percent of the time, it’s scorching in Phnom Penh during the day, so every biker or cyclist seems to seek the shade intuitively at traffic stops. I also reinforce my sun protection by wearing shades and a hat, and applying sunscreen liberally. For my bicycle, I check the air pressure on both tires often. It cost just 500 riels (US$0.13) for a roadside bicycle mechanic to refill the air in both tires.
Finally, expect the unexpected. It can pour like cats and dogs in a second and a few minutes later, the weather can be hot and sunny. I prepare for such inconsistencies by carrying a rain poncho and a pair of rain pants in my basket.
Now despite these inconveniences, there are benefits to riding a bicycle in Phnom Penh. I get regular exercise at no extra expense and my skin looks radiant from the vitamin Ds that I get from the sun. The heat and exercise pump up my body and my perspiration removes any bodily toxins. Riding unshielded exposes me to the electric vibes and life around me too. There is also a certain joy and independence that I feel when riding. I’m in control of my own path and nothing feels better than freedom and self-responsibility. So, for all these reasons, I am willing to put up with the insanity that is the traffic of Phnom Penh.
Above left: One of the many who rides in the wrong direction; Above right: This little girl importuned me to buy her flowers while I waited at the light
Above left: A typical scene in Phnom Penh: 1) an overloaded van, 2) a motorbiker with a heavy load (heading in the wrong direction), and 3) a random pedestrian in the middle of the road; Above right: Another motorbiker riding in the wrong direction
Above right: A tuk-tuk driver (stay away from me!)
Above left: Another motorbiker with a heavy load (a common scene); Above right: Hiding in the shade with other bikers while waiting at the light
