Boston, Massachusetts, U.S.A. - June to December 2010

Some fun (and almost-always FREE!) activities in and around Boston (by season):

SUMMERTIME IN AND AROUND BOSTON

The Museum of Fine Arts -
 "Suggested Price" entrance every Wednesday at 4 PM 
(read: you don't have to pay if you don't want to)

The Institute of Contemporary Art/Boston (ICA) and South Boston -

The ICA offers free visits every Thursday from 5-9 PM (I probably wouldn't have paid the $15 to enter the one-floor exhibit); The annual Harborwalk Sounds is also held at the ICA. It was at one such free performance that I discovered the talented mandolin-playing bluegrass singer-songwriter Sierra Hull, who was a student at the Berklee College of Music.

Copley Square and the Boston Central Public Library -

Farmers Market - every Tuesday and Friday from 11-6; free lunchtime concerts in the Boston Public Library courtyard every Friday in summer

Dance for World Community Festival @ Harvard - Free and awesome.
Top: Contemporary Anikai Dance @ the Sanctuary Theater
Bottom: Salsa Y Control Dance Group; Neena Gulati and Triveni Ensemble
(Click here for more info about the festival)


Fête de la Musique Festival @ Harvard Square -
A free all-day outdoor live music festival in the heart of Harvard, typically held in June; featuring heartfelt French/Haitian poesie interposed with Spanish singing (top center)

Earthworks Boston -
One summer Sunday morning, I volunteered at Earthworks Boston to help harvest some of the fruit trees around Boston for charity. Thanks to the civic-minded city planners, there are many fruit trees and shrubs planted all over Boston for the FREE enjoyment of the people. My group spent most of the morning picking sour cherries and white and red currants. Almost all of the fruits collected (in particular the sour cherries) were donated to a non-profit restaurant in Dorchester; they'd use them to make pies for the homeless.


Juan Sebastián de Elcano -
Docked at the Boston Harbor near the World Trade Center from Jun 16-21, '10, the 340' four-mast top sail schooner is a Spanish Navy sailing training ship and one of the biggest and oldest (since 1927) sailing ships still afloat. Free visit on select times/days.



Fourth of July Festivities @ Boston Common

Bunker Hill Monument

Misc. Summer @ Boston, Cambridge, Dorchester and Somerville -
Featuring the James Blake House, the oldest house in Boston's Edward Everett Square in Dorchester (said to date back to 1661), Shakespeare on the Common, Haymarket near the North End district in Boston, and rocking Haitian dance at the Dance Complex in Central Square in Cambridge



FALL IN BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE

The Clover Food Lab located @ 7 Holyoke Street, Cambridge, in Harvard Square was a gem of a find. Its egg and eggplant sandwich ($5.31 each) was delicious. I like its concept - good food and no-frills; the owners of this fast-food joint started their food business with a food truck and used Twitter to market their whereabouts and daily menu. It worked BIG time and they grew a loyal following in Cambridge. They continue to use Twitter to market, with each branch having their own twitter account - see this example for their Harvard Square branch: http://twitter.com/cloverHSQ


WINTERTIME IN BOSTON AND MALDEN

I have to say walking across the frozen lake in Boston Common brought out the inner child in me. I had never seen anything like it before. I giggled when I first stepped on the ice. When I started walking, very slowly of course, I was both thrilled and frightened at the same time (never mind that fearless little kids were skating around me). I was all wide-eyed and smiling. The fun ended as soon as I heard a cracking sound nearby - in a heartbeat, I skidded straight back to land!

A Trip Down Memory Lane

Some of my best and worst travel-related experiences are recounted below:

Best (sometimes words can't truly describe how I feel)

1. I have to start with the amazing grace that I received the minute I stepped on Apparition Hill in Medjugorje, Bosnia-Herzegovina. I smelled a sweet floral fragrance that appeared suddenly at the start of my climb. I knew that it was extraordinary as there were no flowers nearby on the rocky terrain under the midday sun. This gift of grace followed by an afternoon Mass (in Croatian) at St. James Church with devoted Bosnian Croats around me made my pilgrimage extremely special. Although I did not understand the homily, when the time came to greet those around us with "Peace be with you", I turned around me and wished everyone peace in English and I was greeted back in Croatian. This was pure solidarity and a feeling of belongingness despite our differences in culture, language, age, history and background.

2. I was grateful to see the Torres Del Paine peaks in their full glory in the dawn of Monday, December 22, 2008. Nothing in life is guaranteed and it works both ways. Despite receiving the bad news from the park HQ the night before that the weather in the park was going to be bad for the next few days, I was hopeful that when I began my ascent to the peak the following morning, the weather would co-operate for me to see the peaks. And it did. Not only did the rain stop, the sun was out and the sky was clear. I felt truly blessed.

3. Soon after I caught the first glimpse of Peru's Machu Picchu from the Sun Gate (after spending 3 nights on the Inca Trail), I paused and savored in a moment of personal pride and satisfaction. It was one of life's best moments to see the reward at close grasp. On the descend down to see the Lost City, we passed several freshly-scented hikers on their way up to the Sun Gate. Although we looked messy and tired, we were (and I believe I can speak for everyone in my group) proud of our achievement to walk the royal Inca highway to arrive at Machu Picchu on our own 2 feet (instead of taking the easy route by train as some of these fresh-faced hikers had done).

4. The views of snow-capped mountains and virgin terrains of Tierra Del Fuego near Ushuaia in Argentina from the airplane were absolutely breathtaking. It was paradise, almost dream-like. I was so in awe that I did not want to miss a moment of it by taking my camera out from my bag. The sight is now forever etched in my memory.

5. Excitement was brewing inside me as I (along with 8-9 others) sat inside the speed boat, waiting in anticipation on our way to an island off of Ushuaia in Tierra Del Fuego, Argentina, to meet the penguins first-hand. When the boat slowed on its approach to the island, we stood up and boy, I was stunned to see thousands of penguins on the island - just standing there. It was amazing. The experience was beyond my own imagination.

6. One of my favorite hikes by far would be the Mt. Fitz Roy trail in El Chalten, Argentina. Once again, I was blessed with a sunny and beautiful weather on the hike up to Lago de Los Tres (the glacier lake below Cerro Fitz Roy). The glacier water was the crème de la crème reward - it was so fresh, pristine and (metaphorically) sweet. Another reminder that the best things in life are free.

7. The animal market in Otavalo in Ecuador was a sight never before seen. All my five senses were aroused.

8. The wide expanse feeling I got from trekking and cycling in the dirt roads of remote Easter Island - I felt small and humbled. There was nothing but the deep blue Pacific Ocean around me and the immense sky above me. I was but a speck in the universe and time.

9. Oh if only I could capture the image of the millions of stars I saw in the dark night from Amantani island on Lake Titicaca, Peru! The Milky Way could have been right above me for all I knew! It was magical and serene. Similarly, sleeping under the stars in Bridgeport, California was another unforgettable experience. Each time I glanced up at the dark sky, I noticed that the stars' positions had changed. I also saw the "falling" crescent moon as it disappeared behind the lake and mountains. Again, the best things in life are free!

10. Chasing the sunset in Australia was another fun and memorable experience. I recalled the mad dash to the coast of the Twelve Apostles along the Great Ocean Road drive in Australia. I was a woman on a mission against time. When I arrived, somewhat panting, I was caught off guard by the brilliant sight of the setting sun on the coast with the Twelve Apostles (well, not all 12 of them are there now) standing in lonesome unity. It was C-O-L-D but I waited until the sunset before I walked slowly back to my car. Satisfied. Two other beautiful sunsets worth mentioning are in Santorini, Greece (it was brr cold but my heart was warm as the sun slowly 'dropped' into the ocean in front of me) and in Dubrovnik, Croatia (a golden sunset that took my breath away).

11. A little boy, he was probably not older than 5, surprised me with 2 little flowers that he had just picked when I walked by him. It was SO sweet of him. I accepted them, smiled and said bedankt to him, and he smiled back. This happened in Maastricht in the Netherlands. How did he even know to do that? Nothing beats the raw innocence of the young.

12. Two fun-loving Italian ladies approached me in Firenze (Florence), Italy and asked if I thought the pair of sunglasses that one of them was wearing looked nice on her. I looked at both of them and said, "But it's night time now...?" I know it's stupid but the three of us burst out laughing.

13. While out strolling at night in the local market area in Ensenada, Mexico, I came across an elderly man who was selling candies from a push cart. He was chatting with his friends when I peered into his cart out of curiosity to see what they were and how they looked like. He asked if I wanted to buy some. I shook my head and he asked gently, "Por que?" I replied, "No hablo Espanol". Then the sweet man tried his best to convey "God bless you" to me. He pointed his hand to the sky and said "Christo" and then pointed to me. I was touched by his unassuming generosity. He might not appear to have the riches but he has all the love in him to share. This simple gesture from him was the big highlight of my short trip to Ensenada, Mexico.

14. A friendly woman in Hoi An, Vietnam, approached me on a street and, pointing at both of us, said "Same same but different". I liked her forthcoming behavior. There was no hidden, self-serving agenda. She merely wanted to communicate that to me.

15. When in Rome, do as the Romans do. A new friend and I were walking in Hanoi, Vietnam when I saw a lady peddling cold drinks on the steps of a market. We stopped and bought a cup of drink from her...and (this is the funny part) without any forethought, both of us simultaneously squatted at the steps of the market to drink! We had seen too many people squatting to drink that we soon started to develop the same habit! It was too funny when we realized our own behavior.

16. I felt blessed to be able to attend Mass with my parents at the Vatican with the Pope. The best part of this was that the encounter was by pure chance. We happened to be at the right place, at the right time. It was just meant to be. Overall, I have to say that my parents and I were extremely blessed by God throughout our big European road trip. In Prague, for example, I got really lost in the city trying to find the hostel that I had made reservations with. Despite numerous stops of asking for directions, I remained in complete darkness. I was stressed out in frustration and fatigue as I had been driving a straight 12-hours on the road from Warsaw. In desperation, I prayed to God for help. Almost immediately, I found an inner confidence that I was being directed by God. I made turns randomly even though I did not know where I was going but the good news was that I eventually found the hostel! It was only in hindsight that I realized how lost I was and it was a miracle that I was able to find the hostel. God's miraculous providence and protection was with us as well as we battled a flat tire the morning we were to leave Firenze (Florence) for Assisi.

17. An unbecoming behavior but I have to say that cycling in Maastricht, half-sober, and screaming at the top of my voice with a few crazy friends in the early hours of the morning was frivolous but plenty fun. I seemed to be able to cycle better semi-sober than I were to walk.

18. I was engulfed in peace after I summit and witnessed the sun's first rays of the day up on Mt. Kinabalu in Sabah, East Malaysia. No words could succinctly describe how I felt when I saw those stupendous colors for the first time. It was beyond "WOW". In spite of my headache and nausea feeling (altitude-sickness), I felt God's grace all around me. I also re-learned that the journey was more important than the destination. It was by taking many little steps that I eventually arrived at the end goal. So, take the step, no matter how difficult it may be.

19. Walking down a main street in Santiago (Chile) with my heavy pack on my back, a random guy wished me "Bienvenidos a Chile" as we passed each other. I was pleasantly surprised. How many of us would even bother to wish a welcome to a tourist? Also in Santiago, I had a nice chat (in my halting Spanish), with a gentle old man who was sitting next to me on a bench and resting after a day's work in the office. We talked about my trips and how I would be spending the holidays. He also asked about my family. He was so patient in trying to understand me. Again, no hidden agenda, just a simple conversation between two people who were focused on the present moment, who paid attention to the things and people around them.

20. I am truly grateful to all the nameless kind souls who helped me find my way when I was lost - despite the language barrier, despite their schedule, despite having nothing to gain from helping me - THANK YOU!

21. Special mention goes out to Eduardo from Peru, who paid for my bus fare in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil as I did not have any reals with me. He even told the driver (in Portuguese) where to drop me off. Eduardo had no idea that his benevolent gesture was my best birthday gift for that day. Gracias Eduardo!

22. The short hike from Jungfrau plateau (at elevation 3,571 m or 11,782 ft) to Monchsjochhutte (at elevation 3,650 m/11,976 ft) in Switzerland was nothing less than divine. As I stood at the top of the mounts, alone, amidst an incredible vastness of white powder, all the fears and problems that I faced suddenly seem so minute when I was up there, happy, at peace and contented. Next thing that followed was this big steamy bowl of coffee on Monchsjochhutte with two fellow hikers. This was simply life at its best.

23. Sleeping solo inside a tent at night with the howling wind and pounding rain outside in Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine was a frightening but also exhilarating experience. I was afraid my tent would rip and expose me to the brutal elements but thank goodness I was sheltered under the pine trees. It was an unforgettable experience.

24. The experience of dealing with the hurricane-strong winds near the glacier lake of Cerro Torre in El Chalten, Argentina was a first. Many times there, I had to huddle myself in a low fetal position until the powerful and deafening winds subsided before I could stand up and walk. Figuratively, I saw it as a sign of giving due respect as I cowered in the face of mother nature's strong forces. In the same vein, the indigenous people's respect for and reverence of pachamama ("Mother Earth" in Quechua) in the Andes had an impact on me. I felt an unexplainable good and positive energy up in the highlands. I was rejuvenated and humbled by what I saw and felt.

25. My personal encounters with seasoned, inspiring travelers - those who traveled the world on their motor bikes or those who cycled from Los Angeles to Ushuaia for months (even years!) on end. I also heard the story of a couple in the Netherlands who sold everything they had owned and traveled the world in a caravan. I recalled too the sight of 2 elderly men cycling through the solitude desert stretch of Patagonia in Argentina (from my bus). These folks are truly courageous and my hats off to them.

"So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity, and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more dangerous to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a man's living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun."
— Chris McCandless

Worst (you take the good with the bad)

1. Groped in Bogota, Colombia. Utterly disgusted. Enough said.

2. I could not reconcile the plight of this little girl, about 5 or 6-years-old, playing in her makeshift slum of a home that was made up of a plastic canvas tarp for a roof and a plastic sheet on the floor in Mumbai, India. Her home was right next to the traffic intersection and yet, everybody was going about in their own business. It was a disturbing sight.

3. I would just sum up this point with a one-liner: Argentinian businesses (for the most part) need to work on their customer service skills. Some of these businesses in particular: Aerolineas Argentinas (the airline), Hostel del Glacier-Libertador in El Calafate, and Hostel Suites Florida in Buenos Aires. Don't get me wrong, no one or business is perfect, I get that. Mistakes happen. What I couldn't stand was their arrogance. Nobody and no business is invincible.

4. The 16-hr bus ride from Sao Paulo to Foz do Iguacu in Brazil was a nightmare and it was not even because of the duration (the longest bus ride for me would be the 31-hr journey from Bariloche to El Chalten in Argentina). The torturous ordeal here was a combination of (picture this): a packed old rackety bus, a smelly toilet in the back of the bus and nearby passengers with horrible body odor. The lady next to me also spilled her drink on me. Ah, one of those days.

5. Falling twice on the wet and hilly cobblestone streets of Ouro Preto in Brazil, while out searching for accommodation for the night with my heavy backpack on, at 7 o'clock in the morning was probably one of the lowest moments of my S. American grand tour. Not only was it humiliating to say the least, I received no help from the on-lookers. These elderly folks who were out at that hour looked at me with eyes that said "Should I help her? Nah, I think she'll be fine..." I know, it's no big deal to fall. I picked myself up and moved on. Still, my bottom hurt and I was wet and cold from the rain - I felt sorry for myself that morning.

6. My flat tire ordeal - one of the tires on my Volvo C30 rental was punctured on the side by an ill-intention person in Florence, Italy. With no spare tire in the trunk (I know, what was I thinking?!), we were flushed with feelings of despair and wondering what to do next. Thank God for His protection, we received help from kind angels in Florence and managed to continue on our road journey. Hence, on hindsight, this should actually be saved under the 'best' category. :)

7. I had never before encountered such unpleasantness from someone until I came across this arrogant French man who ran the Azia gas station up at Eze Village near Nice in Cote d'Azur, France. He would not offer help to my parents and me who were stranded with a flat tire even though he had new tires for sale at his gas station! Call it what you will but I have learned to take the good with the bad. In the end, he did serve us, albeit begrudgingly.

Overall, there were more "best" experiences than "worst", and that's the whole point of this exercise. It is by recounting the blessings in our lives that we are reminded of how truly fortunate we are.

Wherever you are, whatever you are doing, look on the bright side of things. Have the heart to forgive and forget, and reconcile with the people who matter to you. Life is too short to bear a grudge.

Singapore - January to May 2010

Dear Singapore,

It is time again to bid you adieu. I have to say that I am not going to miss your hot and humid weather, or the thunderstorms. I will not look back in fondness at some people there who sneezed loudly, hacked loagies or slept open-mouthed in public. I will also not reminisce the annoying command, "Please stand behind the yellow line" that I hear repetitiously on MRT stations. I will also, in no time at all, forget the many frivolous topics like food, material pursuits, maid issues, and xenophobic remarks that dominated local conversations and the media.

Still, I have to say kudos to you on your physical transformation. The speed by which you raised new buildings and structures and changed the skyline reminded me of a sci-fi movie that I saw a few years ago. While the 2 newly-opened casinos may be a welcome economic multiplier for you, I hope that it is at no expense on the social fabric of your country. All the best to you on the F1 race and Youth Olympic Games this year. You have certainly come of age. Godspeed.

Above left: Victorian-style cast-irons ornately deck the octagonal framework of this 1820's Telok Ayer Market (also known as Lau Pa Sat); Above right: Serangoon Road

Above left: An old-style home in Singapore - a rare gem-of-a-find in the modern island-state; Above right: The Merlion is to Singapore as the mermaid is to Denmark

Above left: The sophisticated 5-star Fullerton Hotel was once Singapore's General Post Office; Above right: The CBD (In acronym-addict Singapore, CBD stands for Central Business District)

Above left: The Parliament House where the PM (Prime Minister) and MPs (Ministers of Parliament) work; Above right: Vintage tiles

Above left: Lovely orange-red flowers - anyone know what it's called?; Above right: Rain trees of Singapore

Above left: The Sail @ Marina Bay; Above right: The newly-christened Helix bridge with the newly-opened Marina Bay Sands (casino & hotel)

Above left: Walking across the Helix Bridge; Above right: Marina Bay Sands (top left) and the Singapore Flyer (top right) from the Marina Barrage

Above left: @ Mandai Orchid Garden; Above right: @ Bugis Street

Above left: Free concert @ the Esplanade; Above right: Masjid Sultan (Sultan Mosque) @ Kampung Glam

Mt. Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysian Borneo - 4-7 May 2010

Above: Sunrise at the summit of Mt. Kinabalu on May 6, 2010

On May 4, I left Singapore for Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, East Malaysia, on yet another one of my do-it-yourself (D-I-Y) adventures - this time, a climbing expedition to Mt. Kinabalu. If I can do it, DIY is always my preferred route. In this case, the trick was to secure the night's (mandatory) accommodation at Laban Rata camp (@ elevation 3,273 m or 10,738 ft) on Mt. Kinabalu first and foremost as accommodation there was limited and often sold out quickly. Some tour agencies charge an all-in price of about MYR850 to MYR1000 (between ~US$265 and ~US$312) per person but I managed to secure the accommodation, meals, climbing permit and insurance for a considerably lower price of MYR492 (~US$153) per person directly with the owner-operator, Sutera Sanctuary Lodge (SSL). E-mail: sslmresv2@suteraharbour.com.my; www.suteraharbour.com. Throughout the reservation process (via e-mail), the staff at SSL was nothing less than polite, prompt and professional. Other costs not included in the quote were: (1) Guide - MYR85 (you pay for one at the Park HQ), (2) Transport to/from the Park HQ and Timpohon Gate - MYR33, (3) Public (van) transport to/from Kota Kinabalu town and Kinabalu Park - MYR30. In all, the total cost for me to climb Mt. Kinabalu came up to MYR640 (~US$200).

Above right: Laban Rata restaurant @ elevation 3,273 m or 10,738 ft

The climb on May 5 was tremendously taxing - perhaps it was the fever and malaise feeling I had going in or that I underestimated the difficulty and intensity of the ascent (and descent), but I definitely got a thrashing from Mt Kinabalu. From the Timpohon Gate, at elevation 1,866 m or 6,122 ft, it took me and my rather blasé guide, Rashid, about 5 hours to climb up to Laban Rata restaurant and camp at elevation 3,273 m or 10,738 ft. Rashid was of little value to me but since it's a park requirement to have a guide, he shadowed me for 24-hours.

My embattled body felt foreign to me at Laban Rata camp - my mind was incoherent and my head was banging; my legs were sore to the core and both my hands were swollen (peripheral edema) and could not write. Where were the coca leaves when you needed them?? After a somewhat satisfactory buffet dinner at 5 PM (I was more tired than hungry at that point), I walked up to my assigned Panar Laban hut to rest. Between 6:30 PM and 1:30 AM, I had to rise three times to relief myself. Perhaps it was the elevation but 3 times was a bit much. It was such an inconvenience to have to get up from bed, put on my head lamp, climb down from the upper bunk bed, put on my shoes, and then walk a brief distance to the outhouse nearby to answer nature's calls. As a result, I remained tired and miserable as I did not get a very good night's sleep.

Above left: Panar Laban hut; Above right: @ the start @ Timpohon Gate. Elevation 1,866 m / 6,122 ft

Above left: Wild edible berries, compliments of Mt. Kinabalu; Above right: A nepenthe of Borneo

At 2 AM on May 6, most of us had gathered at the restaurant to eat a light breakfast before we set off to climb the remaining 800+ m or 2,600+ ft to the Low's Peak summit. Truth be told, I was fatigued and not very enthused about the climb but I persevered. With one step after another, and frequent breaks in between to catch my breath in high elevation territory, I made my way to the top. Midway, though, the lower right back of my head started to hurt a lot and, call me hypochondriac, I was concerned that I might suffer a stroke. Pain, as I've learned, was debilitating and all I thought about. I had to stop a few times to lower my head to get some blood flowing there in the hope of elevating the pain. I also took many sips of water to stay hydrated. I was the slow tortoise - slowly but surely I made my way up, even in rough sections where I had to pull myself up with the rope.

Still, there was a moment of weakness when I thought of giving up. My head was banging and I was simply too tired to continue. Coincidentally, at the precise moment when I thought about giving up, I felt this huge gush of wind pushed me strong from behind. I kid you not, God was watching over me. I soon overcame my pessimistic thoughts and held on with all I got. Success usually occurs when the heart takes over and that was exactly what happened to me. I was reminded that whenever we go through physical torments, such as the marathon run I did last year, it's always the heart that remains the strongest. The mind will turn negative and the body will scream murder but it's the heart that will keep on going. When I arrived at the base of Low's Peak, the sun's first rays of the day were starting to shine through. No words could describe how I felt when I saw those stupendous colors for the first time. It was beyond "WOW". In spite of my headache and nausea feeling, I felt God's grace all around me. I learned that it's not about the summit anymore. It's the climb that mattered - each step took me to the summit. The climb, like in life, was all about overcoming struggles and adversity to reach one's goal.

The descend down to the Park HQ that same day on May 6 was yet another challenge. I don't usually gripe and complain but this was one experience I would not forget. Compared to other descends, this one from Mt. Kinabalu took a huge toll on my poor knees. The 24-hour window of ascending and descending the mountain caused my knees to become wobbly weak and I suffered from poor balance. Every step was painful and I wished that I had carried a walking stick with me for balance and support. I was eager to get down so that I would not miss the last local bus that would take me back to Kota Kinabalu. Still, safety always comes first. A few times, I found myself getting mad at the steps, rocks and boulders. I was drenched in sweat and mad at the same time - definitely not my best moment. Anger, however, was a good emotion that pushed me onwards. I have to say that this whole experience has taught me a lot of patience and perseverance. Terima kasih, Gunung Kinabalu!

Above right: Looking up Low's Peak at the crack of dawn

Above right: Low's Peak, elevation 4,095 m or 13,435 ft

Above right: Donkey Ears of Mt. Kinabalu

You may also like: Cameron Highlands, Pahang, Malaysia