Walk with Sandra: Cameron Highlands, Pahang, Malaysia

Above: Sungei Palas Tea Plantation at Cameron Highlands

Cameron Highlands was a place I had heard much about growing up in Malaysia and Singapore but one that had eluded me, for one reason or another. Since I was back in the region, I figured that this would be an opportuned time for me to finally pay her a visit.

Hence on the night of April 13, mom and I took the Konsortium 10:30 PM bus from Singapore and arrived in Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands (9 hours later) at 7-ish AM on April 14. The one-way Singapore-Cameron Highlands bus ticket cost S$55 (~US$39) per person. You could save S$6 per person with a round-trip ticket of S$104 (~US$74) per passenger versus buying each way separately. If you do plan to return to Singapore, then it is wise to buy the return ticket from origin Singapore for 2 reasons: 1) The one-way ticket price from Cameron Highlands to Singapore was MYR 125 each, which when converted to SGD (based on the current exchange rate of 1 SGD = 2.30 MYR) was about S$55 per person - no cost savings there, and 2) On high-season days, it is better to assure yourself a seat on the return leg.

The bus ride was smooth and uneventful. Along the way, we made brief stops at Yong Peng and Rawang. Arriving in the wee hours of the morning at Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands, we were thankful that the receptionist at Hotel de la Fern allowed us to check in early. Moreover, we were given a nice and airy room that faced the hills and morning sun...it was splendid.

There is plenty to see and do in Cameron Highlands. If you are the adventurous type, you can opt for a trek into the rain forest to see the gigantic Rafflesia plant or hike a few hours up Mountain Perdah (1,551 m) for a panoramic view of the highlands, or climb Mt. Irau (2,090 m) for a kick. However, with mom by my side, roughing it out was not an option. Instead, we joined two half-day tours that were organized by Titiwangsa. The Agro Delight and Nature Discovery half-day tours, though rather pricey at MYR 65 (~US$20) and MYR 60 (~US$18.70) per person respectively, were worth the money for the transportation as well as the local knowledge of our botany-trained and very personable guide, Kumar.

The nature snob in me was most impressed by the natural beauty of Cameron Highland's blossoms. It seemed like everywhere I turned, I was greeted by real, healthy, beautiful flowers and plants that took my breath away. The cool air, fertile soil, fresh mountain spring water, and strong UV sun rays were reasons why the visually appealing flora in Cameron Highlands seemed to burst with the flavors of life and all things good. It was easy to forget oneself and be lost in the simple moment of the present amongst such beauty.

Above left: Beautiful lilies displayed at the lobby of Hotel de la Fern;

Above right: These vibrant, colorful carnations were grown for export

Above: These contract laborers from Bangladesh, Nepal and Indonesia were hired by the carnation farm owner to work on the farm for 2-3 years. Each contract was renewable up to a max of 10 years

Above left: Traditional terrace vegetable plots - watercress was grown in the foreground; Above right: A large hibiscus bloom at a traditional farm

Above left: A traditional vegetable farm

Above right: With monikers ranging from "pitcher plant" to "monkey cup" to "natural condom", this odd-shaped plant derived its nutrients from trapped insects inside its pouch. The plant would open its pouch to collect rain water as a form of trap. Insects would unsuspectingly fly into the pouch to drink the water. They would be trapped inside when the plant closed its lid, and would eventually drown. The water's PH level would change to acidic to slowly break down the insects for the nutrients.

Above: These cacti were grown locally for export and medicinal use

Above: This hydroponic lettuce farm received start-up funding and hydroponic technology from the Dutch G.H.E. company. For the first 5 years, 50% of the farm's profits would return to G.H.E. as loan payment - not a bad set up. In hydroponic farming, plant roots were submerged in liquid nutrient solutions rather than in soil.

Above left: Hydroponically grown butter-head lettuce;
Above right: These strawberries, sold at MYR 40/KG, were cultivated using a drip irrigation system with their roots planted in a soil mixture of mushroom sawdust and coconut husk. They were small in size and tangy-sweet in taste; 2 species were grown here - the pointy-tip Japanese strawberries and the flat-tip Dutch type

Above left: View from Gunung Brinchang, 2,032 m; Above right: Wild orchids from the rain forest of Cameron Highlands

Above: Green moss found in Cameron Highland's rain forest; Ferns and moss grew abundantly in this elevation of Cameron Highlands' rain forest

Above: Wild flowers of the rain forest

The more well-known of the two major tea plantations in Cameron Highlands was BOH's Sungei Palas Tea Plantation. The other was Bharat's Cameron Valley Tea Plantation

Above: The popular BOH brand is short for Best Of (the) Highlands. Founded by John Archibald Russell, the BOH tea plantation is the oldest and largest tea plantation in SE Asia. It is situated 5,000 ft (1,524 m) above sea level and covers an estate of 4,000 acres

Above left: Tea leaves up close

Above: Ye Olde Smokehouse at Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands. You can easily forget yourself here. Built in 1939, this hotel-restaurant will take you back in time and place as you walk in its well-pruned, quiet lush gardens and marvel at the colonial elegance and charm of its English Tudor house

Above: Afternoon tea and scones at Ye Olde Smokehouse. The freshly-made, hot scones were served with cream and locally-made strawberry jam. They were delicious!