On Monday the 4th, I took a long (10-hour) and torturous Alsa bus ride (one-way cost 58 euros) from Santiago to the capital of Portugal, Lisbon, and started a different holiday in the Iberian Peninsula. As the bus stopped at many major towns in Portugal, including Braga, Porto, and Fatima, I had a quick glimpse of the country in one ride. Still, it was a tiring ordeal having to stop (and sometimes wait a while for new passengers to board) at these places. I felt chained to its schedule and missed my own freedom to walk and stop/rest whenever I wanted to while I was on the Camino. On one of the stops, in Porto where we had a 30-minute break, I walked to the nearest bar/restaurant from the bus station to use its restroom; there, I bought a fish croquette to try (for 0.70 euros) and it was delicious! It was an oval-shaped ball filled with pureed potatoes and minced fish (and seasoning), covered with bread crumbs, and deep fried. I also bought a sweet Portuguese tart (for 0.95 euros) at the bus station kiosk to try and it did not disappoint. These little treats were the highlight of my ride.
Upon arrival at Lisbon's Oriente station, I was pleasantly surprised to learn that Portugal is an hour behind Spain. After de-boarding from the bus, I walked to the nearest metro station and purchased a green viva viagem card for 0.50 euros and paid a one-way ride of 1.40 euros on the ticket. The ticket is rechargeable, so the next day, I topped it up with 5 euros (zapping mode). With zapping, I received an extra 0.15 euros credit and a reduced fare of 1.25 euros per ride. It was easy to maneuver the color-coded metro lines in Lisbon (it runs smoothly like any other major city downtown trains).
The Downtown Design Hostel is in central Rossio and it took about 30-35 minutes to travel there from the Oriente bus station. Its location couldn't be any better (well maybe if it was NOT situated next to a peep show it could be, but after a few days, it no longer bothered me). It cost 17 euros a night with extras like free WiFi, linens, a towel, and a generous spread of breakfast (scrambled eggs, toast and jam, yogurt, cake, ham and cheese, cereal, orange juice, tea, coffee, and hot chocolate) included. There's also a large living room with cable TV on the premise ~ after weeks of nomadic living, it was pure luxury for me to zone out in front of a TV and watch a mindless flick or two.
The first morning of my arrival was spent getting organized and running errands ~ I did laundry, bought a bus ticket to Lagos, and restocked on personal items. I took it easy for the rest of my time in Lisbon, choosing to see and do stuff on a whim. Lisbon has many things in common with San Francisco, the most important of which was the Golden Gate Bridge. I could not believe my eyes when I saw the orange bridge from atop the hill in Graca. Inaugurated in August 1966, it was designed by the same company that built the Golden Gate and was renamed the 25th of April Bridge after the 1974 Carnation Revolution that ended the Salazar dictatorship. Lisbon's other resemblances to San Francisco were the hilly streets and electric tram cars. I took the popular Tram 28 from the start in Graca to the end in Estrela and paid just 1.25 euros for the 30-minutes (or so) ride (with my viva viagem card). It was super nice and fun to sit and sight-see from the tram. I enjoyed the windy breeze (not so much the germs from the person in front of me who coughed and sneezed out the open window) and appreciated that I did not have to walk up/down the hills or under the hot sun to take in the sights.
One evening, I went out for cheap beer (0.50 euros) with Alizee and Jerome, avid hikers and backpackers from France, who were also staying at the hostel. During our walk to the bar and back, several men approached us with offers of hash, cocaine, etc. I also saw many homeless people on the street and beggars asking for money, some were young and abled. There were many signs warning tourists of pickpockets and I was advised to carry my day pack in front of me instead of on my back. Such is the sad reality and harshness of city living, magnified it seemed in rough economic times as people find ways to cope.
I was happy to be reunited with fado music in Lisbon, having first been introduced to it by Mariza, an extremely talented fado singer from Lisbon. Curious about the genre, I went to her concert in Oakland, California, several years ago and was hooked on the soulful passion of the music. I recalled heartfelt chills when her heart touched mine through music. In Lisbon, I went to a traditional local bar, Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto, where fado was performed nightly from 9 pm to 2 am. I liked that it's down-to-earth and that I didn't have to order a 20-euros plate of food (as some restaurants promoted) to enjoy fado music. The folks there were warm and friendly and the food and drinks were reasonably priced. They served snack food like tapas, cheese, and their famous smoked (roasted) sausage (chourico assado).
I was happy to be reunited with fado music in Lisbon, having first been introduced to it by Mariza, an extremely talented fado singer from Lisbon. Curious about the genre, I went to her concert in Oakland, California, several years ago and was hooked on the soulful passion of the music. I recalled heartfelt chills when her heart touched mine through music. In Lisbon, I went to a traditional local bar, Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto, where fado was performed nightly from 9 pm to 2 am. I liked that it's down-to-earth and that I didn't have to order a 20-euros plate of food (as some restaurants promoted) to enjoy fado music. The folks there were warm and friendly and the food and drinks were reasonably priced. They served snack food like tapas, cheese, and their famous smoked (roasted) sausage (chourico assado).
Well, this was a good initial trip to Lisbon and I might return to see some of the sights that I had missed. Until next time, be well and happy. Next stop, Lagos!
Above: At the Oriente train and bus station
Above: The Rossio Square
Above left: My bed in Downtown Design Hostel in Lisbon; Above right: Rua do Augusta
Above left: Tram 28; Above right: At the Arco da Rua Augusta (designed and built to celebrate the reconstruction of the city from the 1755 earthquake)
Above left: A "Lisboa Ask Me" kiosk where tourists could get free maps and information
Above right: Arco do Bandeira links the Rossio with the Rua dos Sapateiros (where the hostel is located)
Above: The National Pantheon ~ where some of Portugal's famous people were memorialized and buried (entrance fee: 4 euros for adults; 2 euros for students)
Above: Terrace views from the National Pantheon
Above right: The flea market at Campo de Santa Clara (open on Tuesdays and Saturdays)
Above: Alfama, the city's oldest district ~ where Moorish influence, narrow alleys, and labyrinth streets permeate
Above left: Buskers at Rua do Augusta; Above right: The Santa Justa Elevator in Rossio
Above: Back at Downtown Design Hostel ~ the living room, a good place to chill
Above: Walking up a hilly street to Graca
Above: The gorgeous panoramic view from Miradouro da Graca ~ check out the Golden Gate Bridge replica, the 25th of April Bridge
Above right: The Graca Church (1271)
Above: Riding Tram 28
Above: Jardim da Estrela (The Estrela Garden)
Above right: Mercado da Ribeira ~ indoor farmer's market, open in the mornings
Above: The food hall in Mercado da Ribeira (run by Time Out Lisboa) ~ great gastronomic selection of traditional Portuguese dishes to burgers to dessert
Above right: I preferred a traditional sit-down meal at a restaurant adjacent to Mercado da Ribeira ~ this complete meal of soup, drink, fish fillet with salad, and tea cost just 6.70 euros
Above left: Travel tip - eat where the locals eat
Above left: Praca Luis de Camoes (Camoes Square)
Above right: Sao Roque Church
Above: I really appreciated this exhibit at the church ~ a great reminder of the virtues and works of mercy
Above: The Museum of Sao Roque and Santa Casa da Misericordia de Lisboa (an order founded in 15 August 1498 to relieve the social and health problems of Lisboa at that time)
Above left: Our Lady of Mercy (in a protective gesture to all social classes: clergy, nobles, and the people)
Above left: Cherry liqueur (ginjinha or ginja) and a Portuguese tart (2.00 euros) ~ the drink tasted like cough syrup (ick!)
Above left: Rossio Square; Above right: Teatro D. Maria
Above right: Bean vegetable soup (so good), fish croquettes, and fresh cheese sandwich (4.90 euros)
Above: This little eatery, Tendinha, just around the corner from the hostel, has been around since 1840
Above: Another snack bar in Rossio
Above: The Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation gardens
Above left: A Portuguese tart (part of my picnic lunch) at the Calouste Gulbenkian Foundation gardens
Above left: Marques de Pombal Square; Above right: My stroll along Avenida da Liberdade
Above right: A shoe shiner in Restauradores
Above left: Cherry wine; Above right: At Bairro Alto
Above right: Tasca do Chico in Bairro Alto
Above right: Smoked (roasted) sausage (chourico assado) in Tasca do Chico
Above left: A portrait of Mariza in the bar
Above left: Enjoying fado with Irlma and Ricardo, Chileans who now live in Madrid
Above left: Alizee and Jerome; Above right: Edgar from the hostel ~ a really nice guy
Above right: The 25th of April Bridge (replica of the Golden Gate Bridge) and the tiny Christ the Redeemer statue (replica of the original one in Rio de Janeiro)
Next post: Algarve region (Lagos, Salema, Sagres), Portugal (August 08-12, 2014)
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