Saturday, October 17, 2015

Nature Lodge, Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri, Cambodia - 13-15 October 2015

In the late afternoon after finishing a long and tiring jungle trek, I returned to the Green House Bar and Restaurant to wait for my ride to Nature Lodge, where I had booked myself a 2-night stay. A motorbike rider from the lodge picked me up and in less than 10 minutes (guy was speeding), I was at the reception. 

I got off on the wrong foot at the lodge. First, they gave me a shitty room filled with ants on the floor and a water heater that didn't work. The room was also small considering that I had booked a double. I was irritated, fatigued, and ravenous. I decided to take a shower after dinner when they agreed to give me a different room/cabin. Dinner, however, took over 30 minutes, and I was getting really annoyed when I saw that guests who came after me were getting their food. A server who came to check on me (she was the only one who bothered) apologized that the chef had forgotten about my order. I held my ground, but I was close to blowing my top. When they finally served me my veggie burger without my side order of fries, I went belligerent. I asked them about the fries and they said that they were on their way. So, why not serve them together with the burger like the others I've seen? They thought I was hungry (no, really?) and wanted me to have the burger first. That was a load of bull. I told them to get their act together and to give me a break. First it was the room and then the food. I no longer cared that I was making a scene at the restaurant. Their service was really crappy, and if these were trainee students, then they must have a terrible instructor/manager. Anyway, I ate my dinner (with my side of fries) and when I was done, they took me to my new room. It redeemed everything. I took a hot shower which was really soothing and then hit the sack. My entire body was sore beyond words from the jungle trek.

The next morning, I returned to the restaurant and ordered pancakes served with maple syrup and a side of fruit, and a cup of hot tea. The manager apologized for last night and I did likewise (for being blunt). I told him that I slept well as a result of my fatigue and the bed was warm and comfortable (relative to the previous two nights). I stayed in the Nature Lodge compound for the rest of the day as a feeling of indolence took over. It was nice to be away from ads, noise, people, traffic, and pollution of the rushing world. I curled up with a book on a hammock out in the porch of my private bungalow. I also took naps, wrote, snacked on a bag of chips, listened to music, pet a cat, and took pictures of horses and cows grazing on the grass in the compound around me. At night, the sounds of nature came alive. This rustic retreat cost me just US$10/night (the cabin was an upgrade; it would have cost US$15/night). It came equipped with electricity and an en-suite with hot shower. Should I return for a reprise visit, I would bring an electric kettle to make my own tea and plenty of snacks. Nature Lodge gave me the pure joy of doing nothing significant, and this I feel is the simple moment of exquisite happiness.


Next post: Kep, Cambodia - March 5-8, 2016
Previous post: Jungle Trekking, Mondulkiri, Cambodia - 13 October 2015

Jungle Trekking, Mondulkiri, Cambodia - 13 October 2015

I woke up bright and early at 6:30 AM feeling refreshed. The sun was up, the animals were left to their own devices, and children were playing. It was peaceful in Putong Village. I had tea and biscuits (which I brought with me) with the male host and Vincent, a Swiss traveler in our group. It's cool to just sit and shoot the breeze with others with a view of the green hills in front of me. By 7:30 AM, everybody was up. Thea, my guide for the day, brought breakfast for all of us. After eating, he took me to meet my new group, and we started our trek at around 9 AM.

Thea was a seasoned and deft guide, but he walked way too fast for the rest of us. The trek was one of the most challenging ones I've been on for these reasons:
1. Several extremely steep descents and ascents
2. Muddy, unrutted terrains
3. Leeches, leeches, and leeches!

Some highlights:
1. Bodhi and bamboo trees in the middle of the forest
2. Three different waterfalls - one of which, we walked under through a rock cavity
3. Incredible views of dense vegetation and open spaces
4. Termite hill, wild mushrooms, and crickets
5. Peals of insect and animal chatter from the ground and on the trees

We walked at least 15 KM between 9 AM and 4:30 PM. My muscles were sore after the trek, and I was traumatized by the leeches. I had 5 bites in total - a few of them managed to suck my blood through my socks. Gross. The walk through the leech-infested parts of the forest was the worst kind ever, and I couldn't wait to get out of the forest to drier, sunnier, and safer grounds. I have to say these blood suckers are the baddest ass pest I've come across. Woe be to them!

Again, I've had a great experience, and I was glad that I joined the tour organized by the Green House Bar and Restaurant as not only were their tour prices fair and reasonable but their group sizes were smaller (up to 6), and their guides were all friendly and adroit. While the Mondulkiri Project may be popular, I was glad that I did not join their tours. We met a group of trekkers from the Mondulkiri Project on the trail, and I was appalled to see about 15 of them being led by just one guide. The trek was difficult as it was with just the 7 of us, I can't imagine it to be easy for 15 or more people. I was informed that the previous day, the Mondulkiri Project had 20 people in a group that was led by only one guide. This says a lot about the way things are currently run at Mondulkiri Project - it seems like it's profits first and people second for the owners/operators at the Tree Lodge/Mondulkiri Project. I'd stick with those who truly care about the people and have their pulse on the needs of the communities.

Above left: Crickets dugged out from the ground using fiery ants ~ 6 of these fetch US$0.25, and they are to be fried and eaten

Above right: A termite hill

Above: Bodhi trees

Above right: My big left toe was bitten by a leech

Above left: Stopping to check our feet and legs for leeches


Next post: Nature Lodge, Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri, Cambodia - 13-15 October 2015

Previous post: Putong Village, Mondulkiri, Cambodia - 12 & 13 October 2015