Kyoto, Japan: July 5-8, 2023

Day 5: Wednesday, July 5, 2023 

We checked out of Hotel Sardonyx Tokyo at 10 a.m. and walked to Tokyo Station. It took us about 20 minutes with luggage in tow. We found our way to Daimaru basement food court to get ekiben for the shinkansen bullet train ride to Kyoto. We were spoilt for choice and ended up buying 2 Hokkaido potato croquettes for ¥349 and an ekiben set for ¥1,274 (a two-box set with the #1 sign next to it).

The Nokomi 227 left Tokyo Station's Platform 17 at noon. Our 2 reserved seats 19 B & C were in car 6. I didn't pay extra for over-sized luggage, so thankfully we were able to store everything on the overhead shelf. However, I had to position my mid-sized luggage in front of me as it was too heavy to be lifted. It was a good thing there was enough legroom between seat rows. The train ride was fast and pretty quiet, and we slept most of the way. 

We left sunny Tokyo at noon and arrived in rainy Kyoto at 2:15 p.m. It seemed like each time we arrived at a new city, we were blessed with rain showers as a welcome gift. It was another adventure trying to walk to Onyado Nono Kyoto Shichijo Natural Hot Spring hotel, about 500 m away with luggage and in the rain. Thank God it worked out as I found an underground mall that we could walk through to avoid the rain. We were able to find elevators to take us to different levels too. Leaving the underground walkway, we walked a short distance to the hotel with umbrellas. By the time we arrived at the hotel, it was 3 p.m. and time to check-in. The hotel had tatami mats everywhere, so it was a shoes-off policy inside the hotel. We stored our shoes in free lockers provided at the entrance. We also helped ourselves to free refreshments at the lobby - the hot chocolate was delightful! The first room we got was a standard queen which was tiny with a queen bed. I returned to the lobby and asked for a room with 2 twin beds. The second room cost an additional ¥3,000, but it was worth it. Room 631 was bigger and felt more comfortable overall. Total accommodation cost was ¥55,618 ($392 for 3 nights or $130.67 per night).

The hotel's amenities were top-notch and worth paying the $7 facility fee per night. Besides the free refreshments (and additional slippers, towels, and socks) at the lobby, the hotel also provided guests with free Yakult drinks from 5-10 a.m., ice cream bars from 3 p.m. to 1 a.m., yonaki-soba (half size ramen noodle soup) from 9:30 - 11 p.m., and of course the use of natural hot springs (Renka no Yu) from 3 p.m. to 10 a.m. the next morning. There was also a sauna which closes daily from 1-5 a.m. Laundry machines with detergent were available for guests' free use, though each dryer cost ¥100 per 20 minutes (up to 40 minutes usage). The 3 chair massagers next to the TV lounge were very popular, and though guests were reminded to be considerate of others, I'd seen a guest taking a nap on the chair for a long time. We learned that the best time to use one was around 3 p.m., right after we returned from our day trip. They were usually available at that time, so we would sit on one for a quick R&R. The hotel gave us a chill, home-away-from-home vibe. The little yet tasteful Japanese touches were lovely and pleasant. It was by far our favorite hotel on this trip, and we missed it so much after we left.

We rested a bit before heading out (in the rain no less) to Kyoto Station for an early obanzai dinner at Minoru Dining - Kyoto Porta. They are open from 11-10 daily. Mom and I each had the premium Minoru zen which cost ¥2,420 per set. Each tray was filled with a colorful assortment of about 12 small dishes of Kyoto meat, vegetables, rice, and miso soup. Obanzai is a traditional Japanese cuisine native to Kyoto. The small dishes were curated using fresh, in-season ingredients, at least half of which must be processed or produced in Kyoto. This cuisine was truly incredible - the foods were tasty not only to the palate, but also filling to the heart and stomach. The Porta Dining underground mall where the restaurant was located was also a great place to check out various Kyoto eats. After dinner, I had the best matcha ice cream ever at Nana's Green Tea at just ¥500 per cone.

On our walk back to the hotel, we stopped in at Lawson again to get some snacks: a bottle of green tea for ¥138, two cups of flan desserts for ¥328, 3 soft-boiled eggs for ¥351, and a tuna salad onigiri for ¥135. Then I had my first Japanese communal bath experience (Mom opted out). After changing into the hotel room PJs, I went down to the natural hot springs. The bath areas were separated by gender. To enter the women-only bath section, I had to enter a pin number (given during check-in). Then I picked a locker to store my clothes, slippers, and basket (which was provided by the hotel in each room). I was out of my comfort zone walking butt naked into the heated bath room. Upon entering, I saw women showering in short shower stalls. I picked one, sat on the low plastic stool, and proceeded to shower next to other butt naked women. Shampoo, conditioner, facial and body soap were all available in each shower stall. After showering, I went skinny dipping in various baths - there were 6. I enjoyed all baths that had a temperature of 40°C. The first dip was the best as it felt like all the stress within me melted away in the hot water. I didn't stay long though. I rinsed off, returned to the changing room, got dressed, and blow-dried my hair. To cap off the bath experience, I rested in the TV lounge and had a chocolate ice cream bar and a cup of chilled water. I felt SO relaxed after the bath. It was truly phenomenal.

At 9:30 p.m., Mom and I went downstairs for free bowls of ramen. Because most of the guests were dressed in the same brown hotel clothes and lining up for free ramen, I couldn't help but think how we all looked like prisoners lining up for food. It gave us a chuckle. The broth was salty, and the noodles chewy. It was a one-time experience as we decided not to return the subsequent evenings.

Day 6: Thursday, July 6, 2023

We finished a Yakult drink at the hotel first before leaving at 8 a.m. for Fushimi Inari Taisha, Japan's most visited shrine. On the walk to Kyoto Station to board a train, we saw the Kyoto Tower and had a taste of the morning rush hour. It was a good idea we headed out early as it was very crowded with tourists and local students by the time we left the place at 10:30 a.m. We passed the main shrine and hiked up the mountain though Mom stopped 3/4 of the way to rest at a small cafe/shop while I continued my hike to the top at elevation 233 m. The top was a disappointment as it was more of the same - more small shrines surrounded by trees. There was no clear panoramic view from the top. The hike was great though. Besides walking through over 5,000 red (more orange in my opinion) torii gates ("Senbon Torii") that led to the shrines, I saw real cats and crows on the trail. On the return, I saw characters on the torii posts which were names of businesses or groups that financially support the Inari Shrine. Some shrines had a pair of lion-dogs guarding the entrance, while Inari shrines had a pair of foxes as protectors in their front entrance. According to Japanese belief, Inari is the god of rice, fertility, tea, sake, agriculture, and industry.

Next, we walked to a metro station to board a train to Nishiki Market (a.k.a. Kyoto's Kitchen). I was amazed at how orderly and patient the Japanese were in waiting in line on a road to cross the rail tracks. My first instinct was to head to the front of the line, but I held back because when in Rome... Nishiki Market opens at 10 a.m. and closes at 6 p.m. daily. There were about 140 stores in this market, which originally opened in the 14th century as a fish market. We had lunch at Obanzai Nomura Nishiki near the market - 2 lunch sets cost ¥3,600. The bowl of rice was coated in a starchy mixture of yuba (tofu skin) which was a novelty for me. Overall, this obanzai lunch set wasn't as impressive as our obanzai dinner last night. Still, it was nice to try different types of obanzai. After lunch, we wandered down the market. It was a feast for the eyes! I bought cute Japanese sweets at Marun Nishiki (a pack of 6 cost ¥712 with tax). I also had matcha ice cream with warabimochi for ¥727, while Mom had premium matcha ice cream for ¥550 at Sawawa Nishiki. The store was right across from the Snoopy store.

We took a bus back to the hotel to rest in the afternoon. As mentioned earlier, the best thing about the hotel was its amenities. We had chair massages before taking a bath in the natural hot springs. Then I did laundry as we had plenty of dirty clothes accumulated over the past several days. The wash was free, but a 40-minute dryer cost ¥200 (which was a steal). We also had hot chocolate and hot matcha to drink. Mom and I marveled at how polite two Japanese teen-age boys (also guests at the hotel) were when they met us at the elevator. They greeted us, and before they exited the elevator, they gave us a bow. I have nothing but praise for the Japanese etiquette. Soon it was time for dinner; we took a stroll to Kyoto Station's Porta Dining and had tonkatsu dinner at Tonkatsu KYK - Kyoto Porta. Two 110g pork tonkatsu meal sets cost ¥2,800. We had free refills of the salad. It was delicious and satisfying.

Day 7: Friday, July 7, 2023

After a simple breakfast of 2 Yakult drinks, a soft-boiled egg, and a cup of coffee, we took a bus to Kiyomizudera Temple. The bus stop was a couple of minutes walk across the hotel, and the bus fare in Kyoto was a flat ¥230 per adult regardless of distance. We arrived at a quarter past 8 to avoid the crowd that started forming later in the morning. Admission was ¥400 per adult. Built in 778, Kiyomizudera Temple has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1944 (under the category of Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto). It was a beautiful and scenic place, so we easily spent an hour there.

Then we started a self-guided walking tour from Kiyomizudera Temple to Pontocho Park (thanks to Google Map); we walked at least 3.3 km excluding tours of temples and gardens and stops for breaks and shopping.

First, we headed toward the Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka slopes - iconic Japanese streets lined with traditional Japanese merchant houses called machiya as well as shops selling Japanese-made items, cafes, teahouses (ochaya), restaurants, and inns. Sannenzaka slope was constructed in 808 as an approach to Kiyomizudera Temple, while Ninenzaka slope was built in 807 and well-known for a picturesque view of the 5-storied Yasaka Pagoda. Nearby, we checked out the world's first tatami Starbucks that was renovated in an over 100-year-old Japanese teahouse along Ninenzaka. However, it was full house, so we left and continued on our walk. The streets and buildings along the slopes are designated as important and hence, preserved.

Now in the heart of Higashiyama district, I stopped in the middle of Yasaka Street for the best spot for a photo on Ninenzaka slope with the 5-storied Buddhist Yasaka Pagoda in the background. Yasaka Pagoda, built in 592, is Kyoto's oldest pagoda. 

From there, we continued on our walk and ended up in what was supposedly the most beautiful lane in all of Kyoto - Ishibeikoji Alley/Lane. It was a windy pedestrian-only stone-paved walkway no more than 200 m in length. It turns off of Nene-no-Michi Lane.

Next, we walked to Kennin-ji Temple. Founded in 1202, it's the first and oldest Zen temple in Kyoto (and maybe Japan?). The entrance fee was ¥600 per adult, and they are open 10-5 daily. It was a shoes-off policy, so it was a good thing we were wearing socks! We were given red slippers to walk to another building. Highlights of the self-guided tour: Fujin and Raijin (gods of wind and thunder) painted screen, ink painting of twin giant dragons on a ceiling, and immaculate serene gardens.

For lunch, we walked to Kamanza, a restaurant serving authentic Kyoto cuisine. We had the namafu cold soba set with mixed tempura and yuba (tofu skin); each set cost ¥2,160. For dessert, we had namafu dengaku (steamed wheat and mochi rice flour with sweet miso sauce on a stick; 3 sticks cost ¥1,150) and matcha ice cream (¥480 each). The total was ¥6,430, but it was worth it.

After lunch, we walked north in the scorching sun (thank goodness for our umbrellas) to Yasaka Shrine in the Gion district known for its geisha culture. Yasaka Shrine was built in 656 and the host of Kyoto's largest annual festival, the Gion Festival ("Gion Matsuri") that dates back to 869 and now runs the whole month of July (also considered to be one of the most famous summer festivals in Japan). Float parades could be seen on major thoroughfares on select dates. Yasaka Shrine is free to enter and opens from 10-5. At the entrance is a big red torii gate called Nishiromon Gate. We couldn't check out the shrine's main hall which was built using the Gion Zukuri Japanese shrine architecture in 1654. Four Japanese junior high school boys stopped me on my tracks and asked in English if they could have a picture with me. It was a school field trip assignment, so I gladly obliged. They parted with "Have fun." 

Now in the Gion district, we walked down the touristy Shijo-dori filled with shops and restaurants. We passed on kimono-wearing or geisha-makeover experiences as well as visiting ochaya - teahouses where geikos (Kyoto's geishas) and maikos (their apprentices) perform tea ceremonies and shows like dances or shamisen music (played using a three-stringed musical instrument). However, we didn't miss the Shirakawa Lane for a scenic walk by the Shirakawa Canal complete with weeping willows and flowers like hydrangeas - a great hanami (flower viewing) experience. We used the Tatsumibashi Bridge to cross the Shirakawa Canal - lovely.

Finally, we walked westward and cross the Kamogawa River toward Pontocho Park for more traditional and picturesque alleyways and an immersive Japanese cultural experience. We took a bus back to the hotel at around 2:15 and had a chair massage. I went for an onsen bath after that.

After resting at the hotel for a couple of hours, we headed back to Kyoto Station's Porta Dining to have ramen dinner at Ippudo - Kyoto Porta. Luckily the line wasn't long when we arrived, but it wasn't the case when we left the restaurant. We had the regular ramen with a soft-boiled egg and original noodles for ¥990 per bowl (tax included). Dad commented that this was the lightest meal we've had thus far. After dinner, I bought 2 boxes of matcha chocolate daifuku for ¥1,512 (with tax). I also bought 4 pastries for tomorrow's breakfast (¥1,010). Mom paid for matcha soft serve ice cream (¥500 each) and a can of matcha latte powder (¥1,170) for me.

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