Osaka, Japan: July 8-11, 2023

Day 8: Saturday, July 8, 2023

We checked out of Onyado Nono Natural Hot Springs Hotel at 11 a.m. and walked to Kyoto Station. I purchased 2 local JR tickets (yellow line) to Osaka for ¥1,160, conveniently paid with my Suica card. From there, we headed to Platform 5 and boarded a local train almost immediately - no long wait, and pleasantly uncrowded. The train was clean, mildly-air conditioned, and provided a relaxing ride.

Along the route, we passed quiet neighborhoods filled with spacious, traditional Japanese houses. The scenery seemed safe and welcoming. As we approached Osaka, the low-rise homes gave way to modern high-rises, gradually signaling the shift into a busier, more vertical cityscape.

We arrived at Osaka Station around 12:15 p.m. After exiting through the central gates, we descended to Basement 1 and began walking in the direction of Umeda Metro Station. The underground mall was bustling with food stalls and eateries, so we stopped at Bagel & Bagel for a quick bite - two bagel sandwiches cost ¥1,070. Mine was filling, but left something to be desired in flavor. 

Further along, I picked up a luncheon meat and egg rice ball at Boo's Kitchen for ¥260 - an interesting savory snack to try. Then we hopped onto the red Midosuji Line, headed for Yodoyabashi Station.

From there, we walked about 800 meters, roughly a 10-minute stroll, to Hotel Brighton City Osaka Kitahama. Since check-in wasn't until 3 p.m., we left our luggage at reception and headed straight out to explore Osaka Castle (open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.).

The trip from Kitahama to Morinomiya Station took around 15 minutes with one train transfer. We were unprepared for the blazing sun and weekend crowds at the castle park, which is free to enter and clearly beloved by locals. Seeking shade, we stopped at an information rest station, bought cold drinks from a vending machine, and took a brief rest.

Turned out, the information rest station was also a train stop, so to avoid walking the entire distance in the heat, we hopped aboard the park train (tickets cost ¥800 for 2 adults), which ferried us to the center of the park near Osaka Castle itself. Along the ride, I spotted plum trees, moats both interior and exterior, and a tranquil lake. The park buzzed with weekend energy: locals jogging, walking briskly, cycling, and soaking in the sun.

The exterior of Osaka Castle, Japan's largest, was truly impressive. Its massive base of interlocking stone walls brought to mind the precision of Inca stone masonry - a fascinating architectural echo across cultures. I decided to skip the interior historical museum to avoid long lines and the crowd. The train ride back to Morinomiya Station exit cost ¥600, thanks to the senior fare for Mom.

On our way back to the hotel, we made a final pit stop for provisions - picking up bento boxes and snacks from a nearby supermarket (¥1,900) and convenience store (¥660). After checking in, we called it a day. We were absolutely bushed! 

I have to say, Mom's been a trooper throughout this trip. She gave it her all, navigating the long walks and endless stairs with patience and quiet resilience. As Osaka marked our final city, the cumulative physical toll was setting in - travel fatigue is very real.

After dinner, I unwound with a warm bath - not an onsen, just the humble hotel bathroom kind, which I've come to appreciate genuinely thanks to Japan's bathing culture. I went to bed early and slept deeply - over 12 hours straight - waking up at around 8 the next morning, feeling restored.

Day 9: Sunday, July 9, 2023

After a deep, rejuvenating sleep, I woke feeling refreshed and ready to explore. Maybe it was the hotel's bed, or maybe I was just plain old tired, but it definitely felt like the most comfortable of our trip.

Breakfast was simple: a soft-boiled egg each, a cup of coffee, and half a spam egg rice ball to share. We took the metro to Shinsaibashi-suji Shopping Street, a 600-meter covered shopping arcade brimming with variety - from high-end fashion to fast fashion/discount shops, along with street food stalls, restaurants, pachinko gaming centers, capsule toy shops, and grocery stores.

We began at Shinsaibashi Station and walked toward Ebisubashi Bridge, located just north of Dotonbori. Before crossing into Dotonbori, we grabbed an early lunch of kushikatsu at Daruma (¥2,299) - deep-fried skewers of meat, seafood, and vegetables, a beloved Osaka specialty.

Dotonbori greeted us like a neon jungle - loud, ostentatious, and over-the-top shop signs. Takoyaki, Osaka's famous octopus balls, were everywhere. We chose a shop at random and ordered 8 balls with extra green onions for ¥650. We stood next to the store to eat. Fresh off the grill, they were piping hot - chewy outside, creamy inside, each hiding a piece of octopus.

Next, we bought a freshly made whole cheesecake from Uncle Rikuro's Namba main store for ¥965 and then rested at Tully's Coffee, where we people-watched over two drinks (¥855). Like people in Singapore, the Japanese tacitly reserve their seats/tables with personal items. In California, that same move once earned me an "obnoxious" label. National cultures, go figure!

We meandered through alleyways and did some light shopping - our luggage nearly full, but not quite: 

• 2 packs of matcha milk dark tea (¥858)
• 2 Japanese tea cups, 3 chopstick holders, and a long bamboo tea spoon (~¥1,350)
• 3 Moca T-shirts and a long black dress (¥3,454)
• A bag for work/school from Mom (¥3,289)

Before returning to the hotel, we made one last stop at the 7-Eleven across the street and picked up a few convenience store staples: 2 tuna mayo onigiris (¥280), a carton of premium mixed vegetable fruit juice (¥178), an egg salad sandwich (¥280), and a ham sandwich (¥290) - totaling ¥1,110.

Back at the hotel, we settled in for the evening with slices of Uncle Rikuro's famous cheesecake. Light, fluffy, spongey, and subtly sweet - it was every bit as delicious as promised. 

Later that night, we watched Japanese karaoke competitions on TV. What caught our attention wasn't just the impressive vocals - it was how the contestants were scored: by AI algorithms rather than human judges. It added an oddly fascinating layer to the performance, where pitch, rhythm, and intonation were evaluated with cool precision. Welcome to karaoke 2.0.

Day 10: Monday, July 10, 2023

Our final full day in Japan began around 8 a.m. with a metro ride to Kuromon Ichiba Market - Osaka's most popular marketplace boasting over 100 stores and proudly celebrating its 200th anniversary in 2023. While the general hours are 8 a.m. to 6 p.m., individual shop times vary, and the market is closed on Wednesdays. We arrived early to catch the freshest finds of the day.

I started with a bottle of fresh soy milk for ¥250, followed by a plate of fresh tuna for ¥500. Then came 5 skewers of sizzling wagyu beef, grilled on an iron plate for ¥1,000. Mom picked out a fresh, enormous apple for ¥214, which we saved for later. When we finally sliced into it back at the hotel, it was incredibly sweet and juicy!

We strolled back toward Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street and Dotonburi to revisit spots we missed the day before. Thankfully, it was a Monday and the streets were far less crowded, making for a much more pleasant experience. Among the loud and playful storefronts, we spotted several Kuidaore Taro dolls - the iconic clown mascot used by many restaurants in Osaka to celebrate the city's "eat till you drop" spirit.

Next, we walked up Shinsaibashi-suji Shopping Street for a bit of window-shopping. I've never seen such a long, covered arcade in all my travels - it truly felt endless, packed with visual stimulation at every turn. I picked up a long navy blue dress for just ¥1,100 - our only purchase for the day since our luggage was packed to the brim.

We had lunch at Tsurumaru Udon, a cozy spot usually crowded with local office workers on their midday break. I ordered kitsune udon with tempura, while Mom had a satisfying combo of pork cutlet katsudon and tempura. The total came to just ¥1,950 - unbeatable value for such hearty portions. When we left, the line outside had grown long. Good thing we beat the rush.

We walked a little farther and returned to the hotel to rest. At 5 p.m., we had a comforting eel, rice, and soup set meal at Yayoi Teishoku restaurant near our hotel. Total cost was ¥2,200. The self-ordering process was smooth and modern - I used the ticket machine to the left of the entrance, paid for the food, collected the meal tickets, and handed them to a server before taking our seats. Tea, water, ice, extra rice, and pickles were all available self-serve at a counter along the wall. The eel was soft, sweet, and buttery - pure umami delight.

After dinner, we walked a few minutes to the Tosahori River. Crossing the Naniwabashi Bridge, we were greeted by a bloom of colorful roses in the Nakanoshima Rose Garden. We snapped a few photos and strolled back to the hotel, hearts full and feet grateful.

This was a serene and graceful end to our summer vacation through Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.

Thanks be to God.

Day 11: Tuesday, July 11, 2023

Around 8 a.m., I mailed out the pocket WiFi at a postbox inside Lawson, located diagonally across from our hotel. We checked out at 11 a.m. and began our journey to Kansai International Airport by train.

First, we took the Sakaisuji Metro Line from Kitahama Station (a 13-minute ride across 6 stops) to Tengachaya Station. There, we transferred to the Nankai (Limited Express) Airport Line, which carried us directly to Kansai-Airport Station. The fare was ¥930 per adult, and total travel time was about one hour.

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