Saturday, September 15, 2007

Poznan & Warszawa (Warsaw), Poland - 14 & 15 September 2007


Leaving Germany and crossing into Poland, we encountered Polish immigration. The young officer at the border questioned me extensively about our purpose for visiting the country. I had to present my road trip itinerary and all our hostel bookings before he would grant us passage. Despite his cautious demeanor, he remained cordial throughout the interaction.

Our drive into Warszawa (Warsaw) proved unpleasantly long and tiring, severely hampered by extensive road constructions that bottlenecked traffic into single-lane backlogs. Sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic with a full bladder was certainly no fun, yet somehow, I made it to the next restroom stop in one piece. We noticed countless trucks traversing Poland - a clear indication that the country needs to improve its land infrastructure significantly, perhaps by building more freeways, to better facilitate the transportation of goods. It's evident that Poland has transformed into a major outsourcing hub for modern Europe.

Poznan offered a welcome respite enroute to Warszawa, where our money stretched remarkably far, a pleasant surprise we found common throughout Poland. There, I exchanged 50 euros for 186 złoty at a rate of 3.72. We were incredibly fortunate, once again, to be assisted by friendly locals at every turn. I'm grateful for their kindness, and I thank God for being with us on this journey.

Warszawa is Europe's 8th largest city according to Wikipedia (2007)Given that much of the Old Town was tragically razed by Hitler during World War II, it was particularly striking to see how faithfully the historic buildings have been reconstructed. These recreated structures, based on archival records and collective memory, stand as powerful symbols of resilience and cultural restoration.

Though no linguist, I noticed that many locals spoke some Russian alongside Polish - perhaps a lingering remnant of past occupations, subtly woven into daily conversations. Food-wise, the offerings were generally simple fare, with a clear national fondness for sweets. At a free rock concert and along the shop-lined streets, I saw many restless youngsters mingling - a scene familiar across cultures.

We stayed two nights at Hostel Tamka for around 104 total.

Above: In Poznan ~ this parking attendant was so friendly

Above: In Warszawa (Warsaw)

Above left: A monument dedicated to renowned astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus, who formulated the heliocentric theory - proposing that the Earth and other planets revolve around the Sun, instead of an Earth-centered universe. He holds an armillary sphere, a symbol of astronomical study. Born in Poland in 1473, Copernicus was a polymath, excelling as an astronomer, physician, economist, and mathematician.

Above left: The Church of the Holy Cross; Above right: "Svrsvm Corda" translates to "Lift up your hearts"

Above right: The Church of the Holy Cross is known for housing Frédéric Chopin’s heart, smuggled back to Poland by his sister after his death in Paris. His heart is preserved inside this pillar. Born in Żelazowa Wola in 1810, Frédéric Chopin carried his Polish heritage with him throughout his life in Paris, expressing a deep affection for his homeland in his music and letters.

Above right: The plaque commemorates several significant anniversaries related to the Church of the Holy Cross. It reads:

"On the 300th anniversary of the consecration of the Church of the Holy Cross
In the 18th year of the pontificate of John Paul II, the Polish Pope
On the 400th anniversary of Warsaw's status as the capital
Grateful to God for the gift of this church
The first Polish establishment of the Congregation of the Missionary Priests of St. Vincent de Paul,
Arrived in Poland in 1651
This plaque is funded by the residents of the capital

Warsaw, 15 October 1998"

Above: Royal Castle Square, Warszawa (A UNESCO World Heritage Site)

Above left: The Royal Castle - a faithful reconstruction of the original 14th-C residence that served as the official home of Polish monarchs after Warszawa became the capital in the late 1500s

Above left: Syrenka Warszawska - the fierce guardian of Warszawa - in the Old Town Market Place

Above: The Warsaw Barbican was originally built in 1540 as part of the city's defensive walls; it was reconstructed in the mid-20th-C

  
Above: St. John's Archcathedral ~ a Catholic church in the Old Town precinct in Warszawa

Above left: Sigismund’s Column, erected in 1644, honors King Sigismund III Vasa, who relocated Poland’s capital from Kraków to Warszawa in the late 16th century. Destroyed during World War II, it was meticulously reconstructed and now stands proudly in Castle Square.

Above: My parents were absolutely delighted to discover chestnuts, and promptly began gathering more!

  
Above right: The Monument to the Heroes of Warsaw 1939-1945 stands as a tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of those who fought for the city during World War II.

Above left: Remnants of the historic Warszawa Saxon Palace; Above right: Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, Warszawa

Above: Obwarzanki ~ these bread rings are a beloved street snack in Poland, especially in cities like Kraków and Warszawa. They're often sprinkled with poppy seeds, sesame, or salt.

Above: Dinner at Sphinx Restaurant ~ 21.53

Above right: Back on the road the next morning ~ on our way to Prague


Previous post: Berlin, Germany

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Berlin, Germany - 13 September 2007

We left the Netherlands early in the morning and arrived in Berlin, Germany, in the late afternoon. It was exciting to drive on the German autobahn with its "no speed limit" rule along most stretch of the highway. I was blown away by the number of cars that zipped by me at unbelievable speed of over 150 kph (~93 mph)!

Driving in Berlin, however, proved to be frustrating when I got lost while trying to find the Schlafmeile Hostel. When we finally found it, I was annoyed to learn that the room was still not ready to be checked in when it was already late and almost time for dinner! There was no better alternative than to wait for the room to be cleaned. One night there cost 54.

After sorting out the room issue, we took the train to the Philharmonic to watch the Berlin Philharmonic evening performance conducted by Fabio Luisi, with amazing French pianist, Hélène Grimaud, and the Dresden State Orchestra. We arrived a little late (panting) and barely missed the first part of the performance (as they would refrain entry during the performance). It was really nice to sit down, relax, and listen to live classical music after a stressful day. The 3 Berlin Philharmonic tickets cost 38.

The program for the night:

Sächsische Staatskapelle Dresden / Fabio Luisi
Varèse – Beethoven – Strauss

Edgard Varèse [1883-1965]
Arcana for great orchestra [1925-27]

Ludwig van Beethoven [1770-1827]
Concerto for Piano and Orchestra No. 4 in G major op. 58 [1805-06]

Richard Strauss [1864-1949]
Eine Alpensinfonie for great orchestra op. 64 [1899-1915]

Copied verbatim:
After years of absence, the Sächsische Staatskapelle Dresden returns to Berlin with their new head conductor, Fabio Luisi, and a programme which is perfectly tailored to the orchestra. With this orchestra, the composer Richard Strauss personally conducted the premiere of his Alpine Symphony in Berlin in 1915, which helped ensure the ensemble a grandiose success. Like Ingo Metzmacher in the musikfest programme of the DSO Berlin, Fabio Luisi combines the music of Richard Strauss and Edgard Varèse. Varèse’s oceanic and magical Arcana, a powerful and illustrious display of sound, provides the backdrop for the evening’s soloist: Hélène Grimaud. This young French star performer, known for her passionate work in the preservation of wolves, devotes herself to Piano Concerto No. 4 by Ludwig van Beethoven, the first composer in the history of Western music who was prepared to give up “good tone” in order to take music to new extremes. The programme of the Sächsische Staatskapelle requires the utmost concentration from the musicians. As Hélène Grimaud put it, “The concentration required when confronting a wild animal is the same that one needs when getting to the heart of a piece of music. Neither can be approached in a half-hearted manner, nor can one attempt to meet them halfway. You always have to stay focused – you can never just switch on the autopilot. The way to the heart of a piece of music demands one-hundred percent dedication – intellectually, emotionally and psychologically.”

After the splendid performance at the Philharmonic, we took a leisurely stroll in the cool night to see the Brandenburger Tor and the nearby Riechstag. We also saw ground remnants of the old Berlin Wall. Berlin was a fine city to visit - I only wished we had more time to spend there, but the plan was to drive to Warsaw, Poland the following day. Generally speaking, Berliners were gracious hosts - we were assisted by good Samaritans everywhere we go; some even walked up to us to ask if we needed help! I was also approached by a scout to be in a film (gasp!), which I politely declined. Me? In a film? Thanks, but no thanks! :)


Previous post: Liège, Belgium