Sen Monorom and Pulong Village, Mondulkiri, Cambodia - 11 & 12 October 2015

The Virak Buntham Phnom Penh-Mondulkiri minivan (US$13 p.p. each way) left Phnom Penh's Night Market area at 7:30 AM, but it took over an hour for us to leave the city proper as we were stuck in traffic. Many people, like us, were leaving Phnom Penh during Pchum Ben to visit other provinces or towns. The minivan by-passed the town of Kampung Cham, which shaved off a good 2 hours of the drive. Still, with 2 rest stops of about 40 minutes total, it took us about 6 hours to arrive in Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri's largest town and main gateway to many of its attractions. The sky was overcast, and there were a few afternoon showers when we arrived. The little town seemed like a ghost town as many shops were closed for the holiday; traffic was almost non-existent.

After checking in at a guesthouse in Sen Monorom (US$8/night with hot shower), I went out to scout for a 2D/1N tour for the next day. My first choice was the Tree Lodge's Mondulkiri Project, but because their tours have become too large and popular, the operators were too proud and busy to respond to my inquiries. Before long, I came across the Green House Bar and Restaurant and was pleased with their 2D/1N tour package. Their US$65 p.p. rate included spending time with Asian elephants, staying overnight at a bona fide Bunong village, and jungle trekking to see waterfalls. All meals, water, and transport were also provided. The Green House Bar and Restaurant's tour rate was fair and lower than the tours offered by many NGOs in the vicinity, including the over-rated Mondulkiri Project. As a non-profit initiative, the Green House Bar and Restaurant funnels business opportunities and income to various Bunong families in the Pulong and Putong village communities. The operators strive for an equitable distribution of earning opportunities in the Bunong communities so that everyone (guides, cooks, drivers, hosts, mahouts, etc.) benefits from these tours. Please support them if you go to Mondulkiri. Their contacts: 76A, Sen Monorom, Mondulkiri, Cambodia; www.elephantcommunityproject.org; visit.elephantcommunity@gmail.com, and (+855) 973 626 644 / 017 905 659

Day 1 (AM): Pulong Village

After breakfast at 8 AM on October 12, we left the Green House Bar and Restaurant in Sen Monorom on a minivan and headed towards Pulong Village. Our Bunong English-speaking guide, Heng, took us on a tour to see a couple of traditional Bunong houses and interpreted for us when we had questions for the female owners. Heng also took us around the community farm to see where wild rice, bananas, sweet potatoes, and other crops were cultivated.

Above left: A resin tree; Above right: An edible flower of the resin tree ~ sour taste

Above right: Banana tree stumps ~ snacks for the elephants

Next post: Pulong Waterfalls and Asian Elephants, Mondulkiri, Cambodia - 12 October 2015
Previous post: Pchum Ben ~ Festival of Souls (Phnom Penh, Cambodia) - 10 October 2015

Pchum Ben ~ Festival of Souls (Phnom Penh, Cambodia) - 10 October 2015

The two major Cambodian holidays are the Khmer New Year and Pchum Ben (pronounced 'choom bun'). The latter is a 15-day celebration in which many Cambodians pay respects to their deceased relatives of up to 7 generations. During this 15-day period, many Cambodians believe that they have to visit 7 different pagodas to offer food to the monks and pray to their ancestors to receive protection and blessings at home. The final 3 days, which fall on October 11-13 this year, are the most important days of Pchum Ben. Like the Khmer New Year, many Cambodians return to their provinces to celebrate Pchum Ben with their family. As such, the streets in Phnom Penh this week have emptied out and consequently, there was a nice respite in the traffic. The peace was very much welcome. I visited a pagoda near my home today to catch the festivities, and I was captivated by the display of faith, respect, generosity, and family-togetherness ~ such great values to impart to the young.

As I have the coming week off from work, I will be heading out to Mondulkiri for a change of environment. Stay tuned for the next post!

Above: It's customary for families to bring food for the monks during Pchum Ben ~ this was the largest potluck feast I've laid my eyes on yet. I was stunned.

Above: The great buffet typically begins after 11AM when the monks stop eating for the day ~ others from all walks of life then come to share in the feast

Above: This was where people emptied their food from their containers/tins onto bowls provided by the pagoda. People then lay the bowls on the buffet table; I think these women were nuns

Above left: A graceful and beautiful Khmer woman; Above right: Kids I met horsing around outside ~ they were offering incense sticks to people for a small token

Above: When you give to one, others will come... this woman was hounded, but she took it in stride :)

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