SG50 - Singapore's Golden Jubilee Celebration (August 2015)

My recent visit to Singapore coincided with the nation's SG50 Golden Jubilee anniversary celebration. During the week that I was there, I had observed many SG50-related events, promotions, and decorations. Though I had missed the weekend preview and fireworks of the (upcoming) national day parade (to be held on August 9, 2015 at the Padang), I did, however, manage to catch the Lee Kuan Yew (LKY) musical and visit the Istana grounds when it was opened to the public for the day (free for Singaporeans and Singapore Permanent Residents; S$2.00 donations for foreigners).

I enjoyed the LKY musical, which depicted the life of Singapore's first prime minister, Mr. Lee Kuan Yew, who passed away on 23 March 2015 at the age of 91. From his studies at Raffles College to his founding of the People's Action Party to fight the communist and seek independence from the British, the musical portrayed a determined Mr. Lee who, with the aid of others, including the support of his intelligent wife, transformed Singapore from a third-world village into an urban metropolis. I liked how the musical played the national anthems of the U.K., Japan, and Malaysia to signal Singapore's transitions from one foreign governing body to another; its subsequent build-up and transition to Singapore's own national anthem was moving and heartfelt. Unfortunately, no one in the audience stood up to sing when the Singapore anthem played - spontaneity, alas it seems, is not a strong suit of many Singaporeans.

Rated this year as the most expensive city in the world, this little dot that is Singapore has her work cut out for her and her citizens/residents. I can't fathom paying S$15 (US$11) for a plate of food or S$5 (~US$3.70) for a cup of tea/coffee in the downtown area on a regular basis. I did succumb to paying S$50 (~US$37) per person for high tea at the swanky Fullerton Hotel; the experience, however, did not live up to my expectations. As I visit Singapore every couple of years, the price increases over time were to me stark and shocking. It seemed like the people in Singapore had gradually become desensitized to these ridiculous prices - not unlike the boiled frog anecdote. This, in my humble opinion, is a dangerous thing.

Things are changing fast in Singapore and it's no doubt an uphill battle for the government to maintain an annual growth rate of 6% with limited resources and productivity. I wish the Singapore government wisdom, strength, and courage as they leap forward to lead the country for the next 50 years.

Above right: Singapore's first prime minister, the late Mr. Harry Lee Kuan Yew

Above: Modern Singapore meets old Singapore (in Tiong Bahru)

Above: The Istana (where the President of Singapore resides) was open to the public on Sunday, August 2; Above right: a young girl participated in an art contest at the Istana

Above left: Vanda Miss Joaquim (aka the Singapore orchid is Singapore's national flower) at the Istana; Above right: The main building and fountain of the Istana

Above: The LKY Musical at the Sands Theater

Above: SG50 decorations

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Ten Things I Learned From Riding a Bicycle in Phnom Penh, Cambodia (4 July 2015)

To anyone tempted to cycle through Phnom Penh with the expectation that traffic rules will be followed, or even acknowledged, I salute your optimism. Just know you’re entering a vortex of improvisation, intuition, and mild chaos. I speak from experience. Here’s what I’ve learned - collected not as “tips,” but survival instincts refined through trial, error, and a healthy dose of sarcasm.

1. Accept That Order Is Fiction

If you’re waiting for Phnom Penh to conform to your sense of logic or traffic law, you’ll be sorely disappointed (and likely stuck at an intersection for eternity). Acceptance is the only helmet that fits here. I stopped expecting things to “make sense” and started flowing with what was actually happening. Strangely, the traffic still moved, just… to its own beat. Once I let go of control, I found peace. And yes, surprisingly, joy.

2. Critique Less, Breathe More

I used to mutter indignantly at every driver who cut me off - until I realized no one gave a hoot at all. The white Prius didn’t apologize. The black Lexus didn’t blink. The police escorting some Very Important Unknown barely noticed I existed. Meanwhile, I was losing inner peace by the pothole.

Now I conserve my breath and energy for the actual ride. Honks roll off my back. Injustice glides past me. I let civility win - not because they deserve it, but because I do.

3. Presence Is Not Optional

If I zone out, I get a pothole, a “honey badger”-type driver going in the wrong direction, a jaywalker, or a rogue construction barrier as a wake-up call. So I ride like a monk: mind emptied, senses dialed to eleven. The streets are unpredictable, and danger doesn’t announce itself. It merges, it swerves, it jaywalks. I don’t just stay present - I stay hyper-alive.

4. Find Your Rhythm (and Ignore the Honkers)

There is no gold medal for arriving first. I ride in my own tempo, budget time generously, and refuse to be bullied by trucks that clearly overcompensate for something. My lane is mine. I meander through traffic with elegance - or at least determination - and I don’t move over just because someone behind me thinks their horn is a form of persuasion.

5. Master the Art of Crossing Like a Local

Crossing a street in Phnom Penh is an act of faith. With or without traffic lights, I nudge forward with quiet defiance and the steely gaze of someone who’s seen things. Sometimes traffic yields. Sometimes I sidestep for dear life. Most times, I shadow a braver soul and let them create a human buffer. There’s strength in numbers... and sacrifice.

6. Know the Real Threats

Tuk-tuks hauling mystery cargo are the worst. Not the drivers, mind you, but their triangulation setup. That back-end spread? A spatial hazard with no sense of personal boundaries. I give them space like they're radioactive.

7. Protect the Temple (You) and the Chariot (Your Bike)

Between the sun, the fumes, and the spontaneous monsoons, this isn’t a casual joyride. I wear shades and slather sunscreen like armor. I also check my tires like my life depends on it - because here, it kind of does. Air top-ups cost about 500 riels (US$0.13), and I consider it the best investment in self-preservation.

8. When It Rains, It Pours - Then It Boils

The weather here operates on mood swings. One moment it’s sunstroke o’clock, the next, it’s Noah’s Ark. I never ride without my rain poncho. A pair of waterproof pants lives in my basket. Phnom Penh rewards the prepared.

9. Watch for the Unsung Heroes

Parking attendants. Street food vendors. They’re part of the landscape, and yes, sometimes in your way. But they’re also just making a living - like the rest of us. I dodge politely and resist the urge to grumble. We’re all just trying to get somewhere, preferably in one piece.

10. Savor the Silver Linings

For all the madness, something happens when I ride: my body warms up, my mind slows down, and my spirit expands. The exercise clears my head. The vitamin D does wonders for my skin. And every unexpected act of courtesy: a signal, a yield, a gap opened for me - feels like a small miracle.

And maybe that’s the magic. Amid the honks, humidity, and chaos, I’ve found joy. And freedom. And resilience. All from a seat on two wheels.

So if you're ready to ride through Phnom Penh - helmet on, sarcasm loaded, sunscreen in tow - may your brakes be responsive and your spirit unbothered.

Above left: One of the many who rides in the wrong direction; Above right: This little girl importuned me to buy her flowers while I waited at the light.

Above left: A typical scene in Phnom Penh: 1) an overloaded van, 2) a motorbiker with a heavy load (heading in the wrong direction), and 3) a random pedestrian in the middle of the road; Above right: Another motorbiker riding in the wrong direction

Above right: A tuk-tuk driver (stay away from me!)

Above left: Another motorbiker with a heavy load (a common scene); Above right: Hiding in the shade with other bikers while waiting at the light

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Previous post: Sihanoukville, Sihanoukville Province, Cambodia (19-21 June 2015)

Sihanoukville, Sihanoukville Province, Cambodia (19-21 June 2015)

As this past Thursday was the Queen's birthday (a national holiday) and Friday an impromptu holiday to mourn the death of a senior Cambodian politician (?!), I had yet another long weekend to skip town. So, my friend, Marie, and I decided to head out to the coastal port city of Sihanoukville in southwest Cambodia. The 4+ hour-long minivan ride from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville (on Giant Ibis) cost US$11/person each way and was, for the most part, dull and uneventful. Upon arrival at the Giant Ibis office near downtown Sihanoukville, we were hounded by blood-thirsty tuk-tuk drivers who wanted to slaughter us (figuratively speaking). Luckily, I called the hotel beforehand and learned that it would cost US$5 to ride from downtown Sihanoukville to the private remote beach of Ren Resort in Otres 2. A driver hung around and hoped that we would hire him for US$7. When I told him that I had secured the hotel pick-up at US$5, he dropped his fee to US$5, but it was too little, too late.

Relatively new and secluded from the chaos and smut of downtown beaches, Ren Resort was a gem of a find. The environs were blissful and serene and the stay came with a daily breakfast buffet from 7-10 am. Their restaurant is built right on a private beach, which affords an idyllic view of the beach (and the Gulf of Thailand) at any time of the day. The staff is a huge plus as well - everyone is genuinely friendly and helpful.

I came to Sihanoukville to unwind and reconnect with nature and it was mission accomplished. The highlight of my trip was nature's gift to us in the form of a breathtaking sunset and full double rainbows right in front of the resort. I felt engulfed in God's grace as I stood in the midst of nature's splendor. Facing the ocean with the sunset to my right and the double rainbows to my left, I felt nothing but awe and gratitude for God's beautiful creation - it was quite a spectacle and it was all for us and free. Thanks be to God.

Above: This little peanut has a lot of 'tude but oh, she's so adorable

 

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