Mt. Kinabalu, Sabah, Malaysian Borneo - 4-7 May 2010

Above: Sunrise at the summit of Mt. Kinabalu on May 6, 2010

On May 4, I left Singapore for Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, East Malaysia, on yet another one of my do-it-yourself (D-I-Y) adventures - this time, a climbing expedition to Mt. Kinabalu. 

If I can do it, DIY is always my preferred route. In this case, the trick was to secure the night's (mandatory) accommodation at Laban Rata camp (@ elevation 3,273 m or 10,738 ft) on Mt. Kinabalu first and foremost as accommodation there was limited and often sold out quickly. Some tour agencies charge an all-in price of about MYR850 to MYR1000 (between ~US$265 and ~US$312) per person but I managed to secure the accommodation, meals, climbing permit and insurance for a considerably lower price of MYR492 (~US$153) per person directly with the owner-operator, Sutera Sanctuary Lodge (SSL). E-mail: sslmresv2@suteraharbour.com.my; www.suteraharbour.com. Throughout the reservation process (via e-mail), the staff at SSL was nothing less than polite, prompt and professional. Other costs not included in the quote were: (1) Guide - MYR85 (you pay for one at the Park HQ), (2) Transport to/from the Park HQ and Timpohon Gate - MYR33, (3) Public (van) transport to/from Kota Kinabalu town and Kinabalu Park - MYR30. All in all, the total cost for me to climb Mt. Kinabalu came up to MYR640 (~US$200).

Above right: Laban Rata restaurant @ elevation 3,273 m or 10,738 ft

The climb on May 5 was tremendously taxing - perhaps it was the fever and malaise feeling I had going in or that I underestimated the difficulty and intensity of the ascent (and descent), but I definitely got a thrashing from Mt Kinabalu. From the Timpohon Gate, at elevation 1,866 m or 6,122 ft, it took me and my rather blasé guide, Rashid, about 5 hours to climb up to Laban Rata restaurant and camp at elevation 3,273 m or 10,738 ft. Rashid was of little value to me but since it's a park requirement to have a guide, he shadowed me for 24-hours.

My embattled body felt foreign to me at Laban Rata camp - my mind was incoherent and my head was banging; my legs were sore to the core and both my hands were swollen (peripheral edema) and could not write. Where were the coca leaves when you needed them?? After a somewhat satisfactory buffet dinner at 5 PM (I was more tired than hungry at that point), I walked up to my assigned Panar Laban hut to rest. Between 6:30 PM and 1:30 AM, I had to rise three times to relief myself. Perhaps it was the elevation but 3 times was a bit much. It was such an inconvenience to have to get up from bed, put on my head lamp, climb down from the upper bunk bed, put on my shoes, and then walk a brief distance to the outhouse nearby to answer nature's calls. As a result, I remained tired and miserable as I did not get a very good night's sleep.

Above left: Panar Laban hut; Above right: @ the start @ Timpohon Gate. Elevation 1,866 m / 6,122 ft

Above left: Wild edible berries, compliments of Mt. Kinabalu; Above right: A nepenthe of Borneo

At 2 AM on May 6, most of us had gathered at the restaurant to eat a light breakfast before we set off to climb the remaining 800+ m or 2,600+ ft to the Low's Peak summit. Truth be told, I was fatigued and not very enthused about the climb but I persevered. With one step after another, and frequent breaks in between to catch my breath in high elevation territory, I made my way to the top. Midway, though, the lower right back of my head started to hurt a lot and, call me hypochondriac, I was concerned that I might suffer a stroke. Pain, as I've learned, was debilitating and all I thought about. I had to stop a few times to lower my head to get some blood flowing there in the hope of alleviating the pain. I also took many sips of water to stay hydrated. I was the slow tortoise - slowly but surely I made my way up, even in rough sections where I had to pull myself up with the rope.

Still, there was a moment of weakness when I thought of giving up. My head was banging and I was simply too tired to continue. Coincidentally, at the precise moment when I thought about giving up, I felt this huge gush of wind pushed me strong from behind. I kid you not, God was watching over me. I soon overcame my pessimistic thoughts and held on with all I got. Success usually occurs when the heart takes over and that was exactly what happened to me. I was reminded that whenever we go through physical torments, such as the marathon run I did last year, it's always the heart that remains the strongest. The mind will turn negative and the body will scream murder but it's the heart that will keep on going. When I arrived at the base of Low's Peak, the sun's first rays of the day were starting to shine through. No words could describe how I felt when I saw those stupendous colors for the first time. It was beyond "WOW". In spite of my headache and nausea feeling, I felt God's grace all around me. I learned that it's not about the summit anymore. It's the climb that mattered - each step took me to the summit. The climb, like in life, was all about overcoming struggles and adversity to reach one's goal.

The descend down to the Park HQ that same day on May 6 was yet another challenge. I don't usually gripe and complain but this was one experience I would not forget. Compared to other descends, this one from Mt. Kinabalu took a huge toll on my poor knees. The 24-hour window of ascending and descending the mountain caused my knees to become wobbly weak and I suffered from poor balance. Every step was painful and I wished that I had carried a walking stick with me for balance and support. I was eager to get down so that I would not miss the last local bus that would take me back to Kota Kinabalu. Still, safety always comes first. A few times, I found myself getting mad at the steps, rocks and boulders. I was drenched in sweat and mad at the same time - definitely not my best moment. Anger, however, was a good emotion that pushed me onwards. I have to say that this whole experience has taught me a lot of patience and perseverance. Terima kasih, Gunung Kinabalu!

Above right: Looking up Low's Peak at the crack of dawn

Above right: Low's Peak, elevation 4,095 m or 13,435 ft

Above right: Donkey Ears of Mt. Kinabalu

Next post: Singapore - January to May 2010

Previous post: Cameron Highlands, Pahang, Malaysia

Cameron Highlands, Pahang, Malaysia - 14-16 April 2010

Above: Sungei Palas Tea Plantation at Cameron Highlands

Cameron Highlands was a place I had heard much about growing up in Malaysia and Singapore but one that had eluded me, for one reason or another. Since I was back in the region, I figured that this would be an opportuned time for me to finally pay her a visit.

Hence on the night of April 13, mom and I took the Konsortium 10:30 PM bus from Singapore and arrived in Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands (9 hours later) at 7-ish AM on April 14. The one-way Singapore-Cameron Highlands bus ticket cost S$55 (~US$39) per person. You could save S$6 per person with a round-trip ticket of S$104 (~US$74) per passenger versus buying each way separately. If you do plan to return to Singapore, then it is wise to buy the return ticket from origin Singapore for 2 reasons: 1) The one-way ticket price from Cameron Highlands to Singapore was MYR 125 each, which when converted to SGD (based on the current exchange rate of 1 SGD = 2.30 MYR) was about S$55 per person - no cost savings there, and 2) On high-season days, it is better to assure yourself a seat on the return leg.

The bus ride was smooth and uneventful. Along the way, we made brief stops at Yong Peng and Rawang. Arriving in the wee hours of the morning at Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands, we were thankful that the receptionist at Hotel de la Fern allowed us to check in early. Moreover, we were given a nice and airy room that faced the hills and morning sun...it was splendid.

There is plenty to see and do in Cameron Highlands. If you are the adventurous type, you can opt for a trek into the rain forest to see the gigantic Rafflesia plant or hike a few hours up Mountain Perdah (1,551 m) for a panoramic view of the highlands, or climb Mt. Irau (2,090 m) for a kick. However, with mom by my side, roughing it out was not an option. Instead, we joined two half-day tours that were organized by Titiwangsa. The Agro Delight and Nature Discovery half-day tours, though rather pricey at MYR 65 (~US$20) and MYR 60 (~US$18.70) per person respectively, were worth the money for the transportation as well as the local knowledge of our botany-trained and very personable guide, Kumar.

The nature snob in me was most impressed by the natural beauty of Cameron Highland's blossoms. It seemed like everywhere I turned, I was greeted by real, healthy, beautiful flowers and plants that took my breath away. The cool air, fertile soil, fresh mountain spring water, and strong UV sun rays were reasons why the visually appealing flora in Cameron Highlands seemed to burst with the flavors of life and all things good. It was easy to forget oneself and be lost in the simple moment of the present amongst such beauty.

Above left: Beautiful lilies displayed at the lobby of Hotel de la Fern;

Above right: These vibrant, colorful carnations were grown for export

Above: These contract laborers from Bangladesh, Nepal and Indonesia were hired by the carnation farm owner to work on the farm for 2-3 years. Each contract was renewable up to a max of 10 years
 

Above left: Traditional terrace vegetable plots - watercress was grown in the foreground; Above right: A large hibiscus bloom at a traditional farm

Above left: A traditional vegetable farm

Above right: With monikers ranging from "pitcher plant" to "monkey cup" to "natural condom", this odd-shaped plant derived its nutrients from trapped insects inside its pouch. The plant would open its pouch to collect rain water as a form of trap. Insects would unsuspectingly fly into the pouch to drink the water. They would be trapped inside when the plant closed its lid, and would eventually drown. The water's PH level would change to acidic to slowly break down the insects for the nutrients.

Above: These cacti were grown locally for export and medicinal use

Above: This hydroponic lettuce farm received start-up funding and hydroponic technology from the Dutch G.H.E. company. For the first 5 years, 50% of the farm's profits would return to G.H.E. as loan payment - not a bad set up. In hydroponic farming, plant roots were submerged in liquid nutrient solutions rather than in soil.

Above left: Hydroponically grown butter-head lettuce;
Above right: These strawberries, sold at MYR 40/KG, were cultivated using a drip irrigation system with their roots planted in a soil mixture of mushroom sawdust and coconut husk. They were small in size and tangy-sweet in taste; 2 species were grown here - the pointy-tip Japanese strawberries and the flat-tip Dutch type

Above left: View from Gunung Brinchang, 2,032 m; Above right: Wild orchids from the rain forest of Cameron Highlands

Above: Green moss found in Cameron Highland's rain forest; Ferns and moss grew abundantly in this elevation of Cameron Highlands' rain forest

Above: Wild flowers of the rain forest

The more well-known of the two major tea plantations in Cameron Highlands was BOH's Sungei Palas Tea Plantation. The other was Bharat's Cameron Valley Tea Plantation

Above: The popular BOH brand is short for Best Of (the) Highlands. Founded by John Archibald Russell, the BOH tea plantation is the oldest and largest tea plantation in SE Asia. It is situated 5,000 ft (1,524 m) above sea level and covers an estate of 4,000 acres
 

Above left: Tea leaves up close

Above: Ye Olde Smokehouse at Tanah Rata, Cameron Highlands. You can easily forget yourself here. Built in 1939, this hotel-restaurant will take you back in time and place as you walk in its well-pruned, quiet lush gardens and marvel at the colonial elegance and charm of its English Tudor house
 

Above: Afternoon tea and scones at Ye Olde Smokehouse. The freshly-made, hot scones were served with cream and locally-made strawberry jam. They were delicious!

Above left: Lush garden @ Ye Olde Smokehouse; Above right: Morning glories @ Ye Olde Smokehouse

Above left: Tropical anthuriums

Above right: Lush tropical vegetation

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