Thursday, April 16, 2015

The Royal Palace and Cafe Living (Phnom Penh, Cambodia) - 16 April 2015

The Royal Palace, the official residence of reigning monarch King Norodom Sihamoni of Cambodia, is beautifully designed with lush gardens and ornate Khmer-style buildings that were built gradually over time since 1866. The gardens and buildings are distributed over four main compounds that are high walled in a 500 m x 800 m area that faces the Tonle Sap River to the east. Only the central compound, which contains the Throne Hall, the Chanchhaya Pavilion and other structures, and the South compound of Silver Pagoda, are open to visitors (US$6.50 per entry). The remaining half of the palace grounds is the king's living area and is closed to the public.

No photos are allowed inside the cross-shaped, triple-spire Throne Hall. Visitors are also barred from entering the Throne Hall but they may view the interior from behind rope barriers at the doors, which were designed to face the rising sun. Built in 1917, the Throne Hall is still in use today for religious and royal ceremonies as well as to welcome visiting foreign dignitaries. The central spire is crowned by a 59 m high tower with a four-faced head of Brahma, which represents the parental virtues of mercy, compassion, sympathy, and neutrality.

On the south end of the Royal Palace complex sits the Temple of the Emerald Buddha in Silver Pagoda. Visitors may enter to view the treasury but again, no photos allowed; shoes and hats are also forbidden inside. Striking impressive pieces of the treasury were the near life-size 90 kg gold Buddha (built in 1904) that was studded with 2,086 diamonds, the small 17th-century Emerald Buddha, and a Buddha's relic from Sri Lanka, which was a gift to the Royal family in 1956. Considering the national treasures, security seemed inadequate or sparse in my humble opinion; in particular, the gold Buddha, which was placed in a glass box that was secured with a small, flimsy lock - the kind you'd lock a suitcase with. Bizarre.

Following my visit to the Royal Palace, I stopped in at a natural and organic cafe at The 240 to relax over a mug of cool and delicious mango madness smoothie. It's an ice-blended mix of pineapple juice, ginger root juice, mango, banana, and honey and it cost just US$3.50. Away from the sun, heat, and some loud-mouthed tourists, the tranquil cafe felt like an oasis. Many, if not all, patrons were foreigners who spent their time reading, going online, or chatting quietly with others. 

For lunch, I looked up a vegetarian place online and decided to walk over since it was just 10 minutes away. However, on arrival I was bummed to see that it was closed for the holidays. Oh well, next time. So, I walked down the street and found another restaurant, la table khmere, to eat at. I was sold on their tofu amok (steamed Khmer curry with shallots, lemongrass, tumeric, coconut milk, and tofu, served with white rice). It's a traditional Cambodian dish that is typically served with meat. This, however, was a vegetarian version and cost US$5.50. Again, the folks who patronized the restaurant at that time were all foreigners and many came with laptops, books, etc. It's the barang (foreigner) culture here in Cambodia. :)

Above left: The Victory Gate; Above right: The Moonlight Pavilion or Chancchaya Pavilion as seen from the outside is an open-air pavilion that serves as a stage of Khmer classical dance as well as a viewing platform for parades

Above: The Royal Park on the west bank of the Tonle Sap River 

Above left: The Throne Hall in the central compound - note the four-faced Brahma head on the central spire; Above right: The Victory Gate leads to the Throne Hall

Above right: The front facade of the Throne Hall - the staircase with the seven headed Naga (serpents) railing represents a staircase that leads people to heaven; flanked on both ends of the entrance are the lion guardians that prevent all things bad and evil from entering the Throne Hall

Above left: The Moonlight Pavilion or Chancchaya Pavilion as seen from the Throne Hall; Above right: The Royal Rest House or Hor Samran Phirun

Above left: Dance Hall or Phochani Pavilion (left) and The Royal Treasury or Hor Samrith Phimean (right); Above right: Another view of the Throne Hall

Above left: Daily color costume - Sunday: red, Monday: dark yellow, Tuesday: violet; Wednesday: yellowish green, Thursday: green, Friday: blue, Saturday: blackish red; Above right: Beautiful royal garments

Above right: The Dance Hall or Phochani Pavilion in the central compound

Above: Silver Pagoda

Above: Ramayana frescoes in the Silver Pagoda

Above: Silver Pagoda

Above right: The Temple of the Emerald Buddha in Silver Pagoda

Above left: Statue of King Norodom in Silver Pagoda; Above right: A couple praying in a small temple on Phnom Mondop, an artificial hill inside Silver Pagoda that symbolizes Mt. Kailash



Above left: Stupa of King Suramarit and Queen Kossamak (grandparents of the current monarch) in Silver Pagoda; Above right: Model of Angkor Wat in Silver Pagoda

Above: Mango Madness smoothie at The 240 (US$3.50)

Above right: Tofu amok and iced lemon tea at la table khmere (US$7.00)


Next post: A New Way of Travel (Phnom Penh, Cambodia) - 19 April 2015
Previous post: Khmer New Year and some local scenes (Phnom Penh, Cambodia) - 15 April 2015

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