Camino de Santiago: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)

I'm in a weird state of consciousness. I feel like I’m living in between time zones, neither awake nor asleep. My head is groggy and I feel like I’m floating on a cloud but not in a “cloud nine” kind of way. All I need is deep, uninterrupted sleep of 8-10 hours to turn this around because mentally and physically, I’m operating on less-than-full capacity. All in its good time. Eventually, this jet lag feeling too will pass.

Eugenie, a 71-year-old Basque lady and retired maternity ward nurse, took me around Bayonne today. I was pleasantly surprised that I understood her a little bit (Woohoo for a college semester in French!), but I felt constraint when I tried to speak to her in French. I had difficulty finding the French words to convey my thoughts. Practice makes perfect, so I hope to brush up on my French when I return home.

We had a fruitful day. In the morning, we went to a local market, very much like the farmer’s market we have back home but with more exotic variety. Local fromage (cheese) and jambon (ham) were common. Several artisans there were multi-generational Basque farmers, and they seemed proud of their trade and heritage, as they should be.

From the market, we took a bus to the center to see the Cathedrale St. Marie, or simply known as the Bayonne Cathedral. The Cathedral, built between 13th-C and 16th-C, is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 and is part of the Camino Frances to Santiago de Compostela. The cloister dates back to 1240. I loved how the Renaissance stained glass windows filtered the sunlight to form a reddish hue inside the Cathedral where light appeared.

Above: Walking into the historic center of Bayonne from the bus stop

Next, we walked to Halles (covered) Market where I was intrigued by a vendor who sold horse meat (!). That's something I don't see every day in the States. Eugenie was a gem of a local guide as she shared little nuggets of information about the Basque culture with me. She was always on the lookout to introduce all things Basque to me. When we saw a post man on the street, she immediately asked me to take a photo of him because he was wearing the typical black beret, a common accessory for all Basque men. She added that all Basque people have dark hair, so when she saw a postcard depicting a young blonde boy with a black beret identified as a Basque, she laughed at the error. It’s adorable that she finds humor in little things.

Chocolate, introduced to the region by Jews who fled the inquisition in the 16th-C, is huge in Bayonne; the city is France's chocolate capital. Eugenie took me to Chocolat Pascal to have hot chocolate even though I read that Cazenave was the oldest chocolate shop in Bayonne and I had thoughts of going there. She said that Cazenave was good but very expensive and assured me that Chocolate Pascal was just as good but easier on the pocket. I like how down-to-earth and honest she is. And she was right - the Chocolat Chaud Pascal was absolutely heavenly. It’s a traditional concoction served with crème de chantilly (vanilla-flavored whipped cream).

Above (bottom right): Chocolatier, Pascal (in green) with violin-maker, Deon

Our next stop was the Basque Museum located at 37 Quai des Corsaires. The museum is located in a 16th-C historic townhouse on the banks of the River Nive. Its extensive collection of Basque records, customs, and culture spread out on three levels was worth the €6,50 per entry. Besides the tools, attire, and way of life of the Basque people, the museum also showcases the maritime past of the Basque country.

Above: The Basque sign reads, "You who enter here are home."

After touring the museum, we ate lunch at Café Moka, where I ordered a cheese omelette with a side of greens and fries for just €7. By 1:30 pm, jet lag beckoned, and I was ready to hit the sack, so we headed back to the Maison by bus.

 

Eugenie and I met again for dinner at the Maison with Frederic. Dinner was cheese on toasts served on a bed of lettuce, tomato, and pear vinaigrette-dressed salad for starter, baked chicken with potatoes for main, and ice cream for dessert; and as usual red wine and water were offered as well.

I had an enjoyable day with Eugenie, and I'm very thankful for her company and knowledge of Bayonne and the Basque country. She made all the difference in my visit to Bayonne. Thanks be to God for the angels in my life.

Next post: Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port (June 13, 2014)
Previous post: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)

Camino de Santiago: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)

I'm pleased to have met Madeleine and Gilbert at the Ephraim guesthouse. The couple, who had previously walked and completed the Camino on three different stages in their lives, had plenty of advice to offer. I loved listening to their stories and marveled at their quest for adventure and a prayerful life. Madeleine said to just “Be Happy,” and I couldn’t agree with her more. 

I also met Marie-Sophie, a faithful woman who volunteered at the guesthouse the night before to welcome guests who wished to stay the night. Her gentle demeanor gave proof of the light in her, and we parted with blessings to be with God.

Above: Madeleine et Gilbert

After breakfast (of bread, butter, and jam with hot beverages of tea, cocoa, and/or coffee), I checked out of the guesthouse and paused briefly for adoration at the Basilique before I made my way to the Montparnasse train station to catch a train to Bayonne. The Benedictine sisters were singing and praying in adoration to the Eucharist at the Basilique. I felt gratitude towards the sisters for hosting me and admiration and inspiration for their faithful devotion to God.

Above left: Crucifix in my room at Ephraim guesthouse; Above right: The bridge that links the guesthouse to the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre

Above left: St. Jean Paul at Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre; Above right: Gorgeous morning view from Montmartre

Above: The Ephraim guesthouse is adjoined to the Basilique by a bridge

When I boarded the TGV train at Montparnasse train station, the car I was in was already full of people standing near the door. As I entered the saloon to find my seat, I was surprised to see someone seating there. Pointing to my e-ticket, I said to her that I had reserved the seat. Judging from her body language and ranting (in French), I could tell that she was not pleased at the news. As she reluctantly got up, the man next to her said that she could have his seat, which was nice of him to offer. The train then left Montparnasse at 11 AM (after a slight delay of engine problem) and arrived in Gare de Bayonne at 3:45 PM. The ride was dull, and I slept most of the way.

Above left: Camembert sandwich (€4,70) for lunch; Above right: Arriving at Bayonne - first sight of other pilgrims

Above: Gare de Bayonne

Bayonne seems like a nice and simple town at first impression. Her pace is definitely slower than Paris, and the streets are narrow with Basque-influenced homes built close to the roads. I took bus no. 14 from Bayonne Gare (the train station bus stop) to Maison Diocésaine St. Leon and arrived about 10 minutes later at the guesthouse of the Diocese of Bayonne. The transport was cheap (€1), fast, and easy. 

No one was at the reception when I walked in, but left for me at the reception desk, was an envelope with my name and room number on it. It was an odd but trusting welcome since I had made the reservation for a single room (at €22/night) a few weeks ago by email to maisondio@numericable.fr and provided no other information, except my name and time of arrival. I didn't provide credit card information or pay a deposit either. I like that they have faith in me to behave responsibly.

I took the key and went in search of my room – “Where is everybody?” I wondered. Though the place seemed like a mini-labyrinth to a newcomer, I soon found my room and settled in. It’s bigger than the room in Paris but older; there’s a musky smell whenever I walk into the room. I also had to make my own bed with the linens provided, but I’m grateful nonetheless for not having to use my own equipment.

After a brief rest in my room, I went downstairs at 7 pm for dinner and stumbled upon a computer room and met someone there. Finally, a human being! Finally, Internet and human connection! Frederic, a French guest at the Maison, was really kind and patient as he tried to provide me with Wi-Fi information in the facility. He also helped me to sort out a dinner issue when my name wasn't listed for dinner. At dinner, he was my main translator and through him, I met a French lady, Eugenie, who wished to take me to the Centre tomorrow. We rendezvous to meet at 8 AM to go to the market tomorrow. I am touched by their giving nature and attribute it all to amazing Grace.

Dinner (€11) was a three-course meal of tuna, egg, and vegetables salad with bread for starter, pasta with chicken in Alfredo sauce for main, and Basque cheese and yogurt for dessert; red wine and water paired our meal.

Until next time, bliss and blessedness to you all.

Next post: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)
Previous post: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)     

Camino de Santiago: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)

The 12-13 hour flight into Paris (with a connection in Charlotte) was dull and uneventful. I whiled away time by watching three newly released movies (“Frozen”, “Dallas Buyers Club”, and “Anchorman 2”) as I had trouble sleeping. I can’t remember the last time I sat up to watch 3 movies back to back. 

When we arrived at CDG (Paris airport), I was more than happy to deplane and be back on the ground. After brisking through immigration and customs, I went to the first money exchange I could see. Travelex was it, and it was highway robbery big time – 1.5290 rate to change USD to Euros and a 6.5% commission fee plus this Frais d’echange charge? So, what can I say but suck it up and change some money to get me through the first day in Paris!

I must say that I felt a little overwhelmed at the foreign environment around me at landing. A few hours ago, I was in the States, and now everything’s different. Culture shock and surrealism hit me briefly as I mustered up courage to feel calm and collected again. This is the beauty of travel – the sudden change in perspective - and I love it!

A train (RER) and bus (no. 54) later, I found my way to Ephraim guesthouse at the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre (thanks to my compass!), and I was grateful to be able to check into my room at 10 AM. (For those of you who are interested, I used the www.ratp.fr site to plan my public transportation routes in and around Paris.) For a half-board rate of 37 euros, I have myself a tiny but clean, modern, and cozy room equipped with a shower; the rate also includes dinner and breakfast. Isn’t that just splendid? Email the sister in charge of the guesthouse at  to make reservations if you're interested. You can also find basic info here.

After a long flight, a hot shower always hits the spot. In the shower, I also washed my clothes to be efficient. I took the time as well to organize my toiletries so that I'm more prepared when I’m in the communal albergues or refugios.

The morning drizzle made way for heavy rain as I battled jet lag and sleeplessness. I surrendered to the atmosphere and fatigue and crashed. As I laid in bed and stretched out my tired legs, I felt bliss and serenity. “This place’s a sanctuary,” I thought to myself. It was very comforting to listen to rain pitter-pattering outside my window and birds singing cheerfully. At noon, the cathedral bells rang, and I smiled. Now this was a welcome change!

I awoke at 2:30 pm and, despite the rain, decided to head out to Chapelle Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse to pay a visit. This chapel was the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré, a novice sister of the Daughters of Charity, in 1830. Catherine received the inspiration to design a medallion from Mother Mary and after periods of contemplation, created the medal a few years later with the support of the bishop and the head of the Daughters of Charity. It was deemed miraculous when the medal, distributed to thousands of sick people in Paris, healed them of cholera, an epidemic that struck around that time. I felt blessed to arrive in time for Mass at the chapel (even though it was in French). After Mass, I asked a sister there to bless my medallion which I’ve received and worn since 2011.

I never thought I would pull out my rain poncho on the first day of arrival, but I was glad for it. As much as I missed the rain living in California, walking in it was no fun, especially when I was holding onto a notepad with directions written on it (thank God for ball-point pens). 

When the rain stopped at 5 PM, I was happy to pack my poncho away and sightsee with ease. I must say, I’ve been spoiled by the health laws in California because the sight of people standing idly and smoking outside buildings and on sidewalks repulsed me. I held my breath each time I walked past the smokers. “Live and let live!” I reminded myself.

Above right: These French biscuits saved my morning when I got up at 4 am (jet lag) with a growling stomach - so glad I purchased them from a shop on my walk back to the guesthouse

I stopped in at the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre for adoration service prior to dinner at the Ephraim guesthouse. Le dinêr was simple: pea soup, salad, and bread for starters, pasta and quiche for main, and a packaged brownie and chocolate mousse for dessert; red wine was served as well. 

I ate with the other French guests, one of whom thankfully spoke some English, so I was able to converse with her. They’re all very nice – in fact, on the streets of Paris too, I’ve been aided by many wonderful Parisians, who when approached were more than willing to help.

So, it was a very eventful first day here in Paris. After dinner, I crashed and slept like a baby. Until next time, pax et a bientôt!

Next post: From Paris to Bayonne

Previous post: A Journey's Start (again!)                      

Camino de Santiago: A Journey's Start (again!)

Well, this is it. I'm all packed and ready to go. Daily plans, checked. What to see and do the first week in France, checked. How to get to where I need to go, checked. Back packed, checked. Travel alert calls to financial institutions, checked. Spiritually prepared? Well, I'm as prepared as I can be, the rest is up to God. I only need to be aware that my plans are not necessarily God's plans. May His will be done, always. 

Today, a good friend handed me an envelope filled with 90 inspirational notes; I'll pick one to read each day I'm on the road. (Thanks so much, Maureen, for your thoughtful and apropos gift!) So, since I'm leaving my abode today, I'll share the first note here:

"If you are distressed by anything eternal, the pain is not due to the thing itself but to your estimate of it; and this you have the power to revoke at any moment.” – Marcus Aurelius

In appreciation of buddies who generously shared their time and treasure with me - with Vanya, Lisa, and Damir

In gratitude, I wish you all love, peace, and joy!

Next post: My First Day in Paris

Previous post: My Pack List                              

Camino de Santiago: My Pack List

"The lighter, the better" - oh, if only I can heed the advice of the many who had gone before me. 10 percent of my body weight is the suggested weight for my pack, but try as I may, I simply couldn't keep it between 12-13 lbs (or 5.5-5.9 kg); putting on extra pounds on myself is also out of the question.

The first time I packed, it weighed an alarming 24 lbs (or 10.9 kg), about 20 percent of my body weight. I panicked and was disheartened - there is no way I can continuously walk the Camino for weeks with that weight on my back. Stubbornly, after numerous iterations, I managed to reduce my pack list to weigh ~19 lbs (or 8.6 kg). It is currently around 15 percent of my body weight, and will likely stay that way. My self-imposed limit is 20 lbs (~9 kg) and if I must, I must - like bring an extra pair of walking sandals (in case of blisters and/or wet boots) and my electronics (so that I can blog!). Here is my pack list. With 2 weeks left to go, I may continue to make minor revisions to the list, but I envision the total weight to remain relatively unchanged.

When I was stuck, keeping my focus on what's more important really helped. The focus was and is always going to be my spiritual connection to God on this journey. When I am able to pull away from the details and see the bigger picture, and when I go with the flow and trust in God, I find inner peace and strength. I look forward to daily spiritual readings and reflections on the trail and connecting with nature and others I will meet along the way. That to me, my friend, is what is more important - not the material stuff.

Above: A hand-crocheted cross, a gift from a church friend, is affixed to my pack

Next post: A Journey's Start (again!)
Previous post: Credencial del Peregrino

Camino de Santiago: Credencial del Peregrino

I recently received my Credencial del Peregrino (Pilgrim passport) in the mail after submitting an online application at American Pilgrims. The credential identifies me as a pilgrim traveling on foot. When I register in the albergues or refugios in which I sleep along the Camino, I must show it to be stamped. To obtain my Compostela certificate, I must present the credential at the Pilgrims' Welcome Office in Santiago with completed stamps and dates. They require that I obtain two stamps per day throughout the final 100 kilometers on foot. It is in that office too that I will receive my final stamp. Since I'm planning to do the Camino in 60 days (give or take), I think it may be a good idea to ask for a second credential at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port in France where I will start.

I love the "Pilgrims Prayer" on the credential. Here's an excerpt: "God... Be their companion on the way, their guide at the crossroads, their strength in weariness, their defense in dangers, their shelter on the path, their shade in the heat, their light in darkness, their comfort in discouragement, and the firmness of their intentions; that through your guidance, they may arrive safely at the end of their journey and, enriched with grace and virtue, may return to their homes filled with salutary and lasting joy." (Click on the Pilgrims Prayer photo below to read the full prayer)

I also love-love-love the "Spirit of the Camino" listed on the credential. Here it is:

• Live in the moment
• Welcome each day - its pleasures and its challenges
• Make others feel welcome
• Share
• Feel the spirit of those who have gone before you
• Imagine those who will follow you
• Appreciate those who walk with you today 

Certainly applicable in life, not just on the Camino, if you ask my humble opinion.

Update: October 27, 2014

I ended up accumulating 3 books of credencials from my walk from SJPdP to Santiago de Compostela and a smaller one for my walk from Santiago to Finisterre (Fisterra). When I realized that bars, restaurants, churches, and museums along the Camino were also giving out stamps (in addition to the albergues), I started collecting them along the way. The result - a fabulous collection of souvenir stamps of places I'd visited! FYI, a new credencial cost about 2 euros each and you can purchase one at select albergues, pilgrims' offices, or gift/souvenir shops.

Next post: My Pack List

Previous post: The Why, What, When, and How

Camino de Santiago: The Why, What, When, and How

In less than 80 days, I will be going on a solo pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. This trip has been on my bucket list ever since I read Paulo Coelho's "The Pilgrimage", about a decade ago. Curious at first about the journey, my motivation now to do the pilgrimage is out of devotion - this will be my personal walk for God. 

It is said that the mortal remains of San Tiago (St. James in Spanish), one of the twelve apostles and brother of John and cousin of Jesus, are found in Compostela. Legend has it that a shepherd had seen a bright star above a field in Spain after the death of Christ; soon after, the Virgin Mary and San Tiago went there to evangelize. The field became known as "Compostela", or the Star Field, and a city emerged drawing travelers from every part of the Christian world. Hence, the roads to Compostela, or the Camino, are symbolized by the scallop shell. They have been traveled by pilgrims since the Middle Ages. 

Most recently, the big screens have captured the essence of the Camino via "The Way" and "Walking the Camino: Six Ways to Santiago". Said to be "life writ small", i.e., an analogy for life, the Camino has in modern times been traveled by many ordinary people who do it for various personal and secular reasons. Perhaps one of the most admirable and important traits to learn on the Camino is the ability to accept whatever life will throw at me and to make the most of it. Also, after a long discernment, finally making the decision to face the fear of getting out of my comfort zone to do this challenging trip, to travel simply as a pilgrim, is a lesson in itself. I look forward to understanding and gaining more insights about myself and about life in general on the trail.

Recently, I was fortuitously introduced to one of Salvador Dali's captivating paintings (Thanks, Ed!). His artwork beautifully captured the apostle St. James amid a scallop shell backdrop in majestic glory. There's more to the painting than I can explain, so if you're keen, here's an in-depth write-up about Dali's "Santiago El Grande". I hope to see the real work in person some day - I heard it's truly awe-inspiring.

Above: Dali's "Santiago El Grande"

So, what's there to expect? 

• 3 months (this summer)
• 3 countries (France, Spain, and Portugal)
• 3 languages
• 1 backpack
• 1 pair of good walking shoes. 

I will be flying into Paris, France, and taking the train southwest to St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, in the French Pyrenees, where I will start my walk. I will be following Camino Frances, the most popular route for walking the Camino de Santiago. The walk distance is at least 500 miles (790 km) and I have budgeted sufficient time for sight-seeing and rest days. 

After I end my pilgrimage at Santiago de Compostela in Spain, I plan to walk a further distance to Finisterre (Land's End before Christopher Columbus discovered the Americas!). After Finisterre, I will find my way south to Porto, Portugal, where I will fly home. 

Accommodations will mostly be in budget refugios. And not to worry, I hope to brush up on my less-than-perfect Spanish before I leave. So, that's the general plan I trust to take with God's grace. Please pray for me, if you will. Thank you.

I hope to update this blog again with pre-Camino plans; I do plan to post updates while I'm on the road, where possible. Please drop by anytime! Buen Camino! 

God bless and pax vobiscum.

Next post: Credencial del Peregrino

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