Camino de Santiago: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)

I'm pleased to have met Madeleine and Gilbert at the Ephraim guesthouse. The couple, who had previously walked and completed the Camino on three different stages in their lives, had plenty of advice to offer. I loved listening to their stories and marveled at their quest for adventure and a prayerful life. Madeleine said to just “Be Happy” and I couldn’t agree with her more. I also met Marie-Sophie, a faithful woman who volunteered at the guesthouse the night before to welcome guests who wished to stay the night. Her gentle demeanor gave proof of the light in her and we parted with blessings to be with God.

Above: Madeleine et Gilbert

After breakfast (of bread, butter, and jam with hot beverages of tea, cocoa, and/or coffee), I checked out of the guesthouse and paused briefly for adoration at the Basilique before I made my way to the Montparnasse train station to catch a train to Bayonne. The Benedictine sisters were singing and praying in adoration to the Eucharist at the Basilique. I felt gratitude towards the sisters for hosting me and admiration and inspiration for their faithful devotion to God.

Above left: Crucifix in my room at Ephraim guesthouse; Above right: The bridge that links the guesthouse to the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre

Above left: St. Jean Paul at Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre; Above right: Gorgeous morning view from Montmartre

Above: The Ephraim guesthouse is adjoined to the Basilique by a bridge

When I boarded the TGV train at Montparnasse train station, the car I was in was already full of people standing near the door. As I entered the saloon to find my seat, I was surprised to see someone seating there. Pointing to my e-ticket, I said to her that I had reserved the seat. Judging from her body language and ranting (in French), I could tell that she was not pleased at the news. As she reluctantly got up, the man next to her said that she could have his seat, which was nice of him to offer. The train then left Montparnasse at 11 am (after a slight delay of engine problem) and arrived in Gare de Bayonne at 3:45 pm. The ride was dull and I slept most of the way.

Above left: Camembert sandwich (4,70€) for lunch; Above right: Arriving at Bayonne - first sight of other pilgrims

Above: Gare de Bayonne

Bayonne seems like a nice and simple town at first impression. Her pace is definitely slower than Paris and the streets are narrow with Basque-influenced homes built close to the roads. I took bus no. 14 from Bayonne Gare (the train station bus stop) to Maison Diocésaine St. Leon and arrived about 10 minutes later at the guesthouse of the Diocese of Bayonne. The transport was cheap (1€), fast, and easy. No one was at the reception when I walked in but left for me at the reception desk, was an envelope with my name and room number on it. It was an odd but trusting welcome since I had made the reservation for a single room (at 22€/night) a few weeks ago by email to maisondio@numericable.fr and provided no other information, except my name and time of arrival; neither did I provide credit card information or pay a deposit. I like that they have faith in me to behave responsibly.

I took the key and went in search of my room – “Where is everybody?” I wondered. Though the place seemed like a mini-labyrinth to a newcomer, I soon found my room and settled in. It’s bigger than the room in Paris but older; there’s a musky smell whenever I walk into the room. I also had to make my own bed with the linens provided but I’m grateful nonetheless for not having to use my own equipment.

I’ve learned the irony that it’s in the ordinary that one will find the extraordinary. After a brief rest in my room, I went downstairs at 7 pm for dinner and stumbled upon a computer room and met someone there. Finally, a human being! Finally, Internet and human connection! Frederic, a French guest at the Maison, was really kind and patient as he tried to provide me with Wi-Fi information in the facility. He also helped me to sort out a dinner issue when my name was not listed for dinner. At dinner, he was my main translator and through him, I met a French lady, Eugenie, who wished to take me to the Centre tomorrow. We rendezvous to meet at 8 am to go to the market tomorrow. I am touched by their giving nature and attribute it all to amazing grace.

Dinner (11€) was a three-course meal of tuna, egg, and vegetables salad with bread for starter, pasta with chicken in Alfredo sauce for main, and Basque cheese and yogurt for dessert; red wine and water were also served for beverage.

Until next time, bliss and blessedness to you all.


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