Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Camino de Santiago: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)

The 12-to-13-hour flight into Paris, including a connection in Charlotte, was dull and uneventful. Because I had trouble sleeping, I whiled away the time by watching three newly released movies back-to-back: Frozen, Dallas Buyers Club, and Anchorman 2. I honestly can’t remember the last time I sat up to watch three movies a row! 

When we finally landed at Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), I was more than happy to deplane and get my feet back on solid ground. After breezing through immigration and customs, I headed to the first currency exchange kiosk I could find. It was a Travelex desk, and it felt like highway robbery – an exchange rate of 1.5290 from USD to Euros, a 6.5% commission fee, plus a frais d'échange (exchange fee) charge. There was nothing to do but suck it up and change enough cash to get me through my first day in the city!

I have to admit, I felt a little overwhelmed by the foreign environment right after landing. Just a few hours prior, I was safe in the States, and suddenly everything was entirely different. A wave of culture shock and surrealism hit me briefly before I mustered up the courage to feel calm and collected again. That is the true beauty of travel – the sudden, sharp change in perspective – and I absolutely love it!

A train ride on the RER and a transfer to bus number 54 later, I managed to find my way to Ephraim Guesthouse at the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre (thanks to my trusty compass!). I was incredibly grateful to be able to check into my room early at 10 am. For anyone planning a trip, I highly recommend using the RATP website (www.ratp.fr) to map out public transportation routes in and around Paris. For a half-board rate of 37 euros per night, I scored a tiny but clean, modern, and cozy room equipped with its own shower; the rate also includes both dinner and breakfast. Isn’t that splendid? (Feel free to email the sister in charge of the guesthouse to make reservations; you can also find basic info here.)

After such a long flight, a hot shower absolutely hit the spot. I even washed my clothes while in the shower to stay efficient, and took some time afterward to organize my toiletries so I'll be fully prepared for the communal albergues or refugios waiting for me down the trail.
The morning drizzle soon made way for a heavy downpour as I battled both jet lag and extreme sleeplessness. Eventually, I surrendered to the fatigue and crashed. As I lay in bed and stretched out my tired legs, I felt bliss and serenity. 'This place is a sanctuary,' I thought to myself. It was incredibly comforting to listen to the rain pitter-pattering outside my window and the birds singing cheerfully. At noon, the cathedral bells rang out, and I smiled. Now, this was a welcome change!

I woke up at 2:30 pm and, despite the lingering rain, decided to head out to Chapelle Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse (Chapel of our Lady of the Miraculous Medal). This historic chapel marks the exact site where the Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré, a novice sister of the Daughters of Charity, in 1830. Catherine received the inspiration for the medallion directly from Mother Mary and, after periods of contemplation, created the medal a few years later with the support of her bishop and the head of the Daughters of Charity. It was deemed miraculous when the medals, distributed to thousands of sick people in Paris, helped heal them of the cholera epidemic striking the city at the time. I felt blessed to arrive just in time for Mass at the chapel, even though it was entirely in French. Afterward, I asked a sister to bless my medallion which I’ve received and worn since 2011.
I never imagined I would have to pull out my rain poncho on my very first day, but I was glad I had it. As much as I had missed the rain while living in California, walking in a downpour is no fun, especially when you are trying to hold onto a paper notepad with directions written on it (thank God for waterproof ballpoint pens!). 

When the rain finally cleared at 5 pm, I was happy to pack my poncho away and sightsee with ease. I must admit, I’ve been entirely spoiled by the strict health laws in California; the sight of people smoking heavily on sidewalks and outside buildings caught me off guard. I found myself holding my breath each time I walked past a cloud of smoke. 'Live and let live!' I had to remind myself.

Above right: These French biscuits saved my morning when I got up at 4 am (jet lag) with a growling stomach - so glad I purchased them from a shop on my walk back to the guesthouse

Before dinner, I stopped by the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre for a peaceful adoration service. Back at the Ephraim Guesthouse, le dîner was simple but satisfying: pea soup, salad, and fresh bread to start, followed by pasta and quiche for the main course, and a packaged brownie with chocolate mousse for dessert – all accompanied by red wine. 

I dined alongside the other French guests. Thankfully, one of them spoke some English, allowing us to strike up a wonderful conversation. Everyone was incredibly kind. In fact, out on the streets of Paris, I’ve been continually aided by wonderful locals who, when approached, have been more than willing to help me find my way.

All in all, it was a very eventful first day in Paris. After dinner, I crawled into bed and slept like a baby. Until next time, pax et à bientôt!

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