Camino de Santiago: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)

I'm currently in a bizarre state of consciousness, feeling like I’m living between time zones - neither fully awake nor asleep. My head is groggy, and I feel as though I’m floating on a cloud, though not in a 'cloud nine' kind of way. All I need is deep, uninterrupted sleep of 8 to 10 hours to turn this around; right now, I am mentally and physically operating at less than full capacity. But all in good time. Eventually, this heavy fog of jet lag will pass.

Eugenie, a delightful 71-year-old Basque lady and retired maternity nurse, took me under her wing to show me around Bayonne today. I was pleasantly surprised to find that I could actually understand a fair bit of what she said - woohoo for that college semester of French! However, the real constraint came when I tried to speak back to her. I hit a wall, struggling to find the right French words to convey my thoughts. Practice makes perfect, though, and I fully intend to brush up on my French when I return home.

Despite my grogginess, we had a wonderful, fruitful day. In the morning, we visited a local market. It felt very much like the farmers’ markets back home, but with a far more exotic variety of goods. Stalls filled with local fromage (cheese) and jambon (ham) were everywhere. Many of the artisans we met were multi-generational Basque farmers who seemed immensely proud of their trade and heritage - as they absolutely should be.

From the market, we took a bus to the city center to see the Cathedrale St. Marie, simply known as the Bayonne Cathedral. Built between the 13th and 16th centuries, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 and connects directly to the historical pilgrimage routes feeding into the Camino Francés to Santiago de Compostela. The cloister dates all the way back to 1240. I loved how the Renaissance stained glass windows filtered the sunlight, casting a beautiful, warm reddish hue throughout the sanctuary.

Above: Walking into the historic center of Bayonne from the bus stop

Next, we walked to the Les Halles covered market, where I was intrigued - and a bit shocked - to find a vendor selling horse meat! That is definitely something I don't see every day in the States. 

Eugenie was an absolute gem of a local guide, constantly sharing wonderful little nuggets of information about Basque culture. She was always on the lookout to introduce me to her heritage. When we spotted a mail carrier on the street, she immediately insisted I take a photo because he was wearing a traditional black beret, a classic accessory for Basque men. She proudly added that all true Basque people have dark hair, so when she noticed a souvenir postcard depicting a blonde boy with a black beret labeled as Basque, she laughed heartily at the error. It’s adorable and endearing how she finds humor and pride in those little details.

Did you know that Bayonne is France's chocolate capital? The craft was actually introduced to the region by Jewish refugees fleeing the Inquisition in the 16th century. Eugenie took me to Chocolat Pascal to indulge in some authentic hot chocolate. I had originally read that Cazenave was the oldest and most famous shop in town and secretly thought about going there, but Eugenie assured me that while Cazenave was good, it was overpriced. She promised Chocolate Pascal was just as delicious and much easier on the wallet. She was right; the chocolat chaud was heavenly — a rich, traditional concoction served with a generous dollop of crème Chantilly (vanilla-flavored whipped cream).

Above (bottom right): Chocolatier, Pascal (in green) with violin-maker, Deon

Our next stop was the Basque Museum (Musée Basque), housed in a beautiful 16th-century townhouse at 37 Quai des Corsaires along the banks of the River Nive. Its extensive collection of Basque history, customs, and maritime heritage spans three levels and was worth the €6.50 admission fee.

Above: The Basque sign reads, "You who enter here are home."

After touring the museum, we grabbed a quick lunch at Café Moka, where I ordered a simple cheese omelet with a side of greens and fries for just €7. By 1:30 pm, the jet lag beckoned, and I was ready to hit the sack, so we caught a bus back to the Maison.

Later that evening, Eugenie and I met up again for a lovely dinner at the Maison with Frederic. We started with cheese on toast served over a crisp salad of lettuce and tomato tossed in a bright pear vinaigrette, followed by a main course of savory baked chicken and roasted potatoes. For dessert, we enjoyed ice cream, with plenty of red wine and water to pass around.

I had such a wonderful day with Eugenie, and I'm profoundly grateful for her company, her warmth, and her deep knowledge of the Basque country. She truly made all the difference in my visit to Bayonne. Thanks be to God for the angels He places in our lives.

Next post: Bayonne to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port (June 13, 2014)
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