Camino de Santiago: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)

I'm in a weird state of consciousness. I feel like I’m living in between time zones, neither awake nor asleep. My head is groggy and I feel like I’m floating on a cloud but not in a “cloud nine” kind of way. All I need is deep, uninterrupted sleep of 8-10 hours to turn this around because mentally and physically, I’m operating on less-than-full capacity. All in its good time. Eventually, this jet lag feeling too will pass.

Eugenie, a 71-year-old Basque lady and retired maternity ward nurse, took me around Bayonne today. I was pleasantly surprised that I understood her a little bit (Woohoo for a college semester in French!) but I felt constraint when I tried to speak to her in French. I had difficulty finding the French words to convey my thoughts. Practice makes perfect so I hope to brush up on my French when I return home.

We had a fruitful day. In the morning, we went to a local market, very much like the farmer’s market we have back home but with more exotic variety. Local fromage (cheese) and jambon (ham) were common. Several artisans there were multi-generational Basque farmers and they seemed proud of their trade and heritage, as they should be.

From the market, we took a bus to the center to see the Cathedrale St. Marie, or simply known as the Bayonne Cathedral. The Cathedral, built between 13th-C and 16th-C, is declared a World Heritage site in 1998 and is part of the Camino Frances to Santiago de Compostela. The cloister dates back to 1240. I loved how the Renaissance stained glass windows filtered the sunlight to form a reddish hue inside the Cathedral where light appeared.

Above: Walking into the historic center of Bayonne from the bus stop

Next, we walked to Halles (covered) Market where I was intrigued by a vendor who sold horse meat (!). That's something I don't see everyday in the States. Eugenie was a gem of a local guide as she shared little nuggets of information about the Basque culture with me. She was always on the lookout to introduce all things Basque to me. When we saw a post man on the street, she immediately asked me to take a photo of him because he was wearing the typical black beret, a common accessory for all Basque men. She added that all Basque people have dark hair so, when she saw a postcard depicting a young blonde boy with a black beret identified as a Basque, she laughed at the error. It’s cute how she finds humor in little things.

Chocolate, introduced to the region by Jews who fled the inquisition in the 16th-C, is huge in Bayonne; the city is France's chocolate capital. Eugenie took me to Chocolat Pascal to have hot chocolate even though I read that Cazenave was the oldest chocolate shop in Bayonne and I had thoughts of going there. She said that Cazenave was good but very expensive and assured me that Chocolate Pascal was just as good but easier on the pocket. I like how down-to-earth and honest she is. And she was right - the Chocolat Chaud Pascal was absolutely heavenly. It’s a traditional concoction served with crème de chantilly (vanilla-flavored whipped cream).

Above (bottom right): Chocolatier, Pascal (in green) with violin-maker, Deon

Our next stop was the Basque Museum located at 37 Quai des Corsaires. The museum is located in a 16th-C historic townhouse on the banks of the River Nive. Its extensive collection of Basque records, customs, and culture spread out on three levels was worth the 6,50€ per entry. Besides the tools, attire, and way of life of the Basque people, the museum also showcases the maritime past of the Basque country.

Above: The Basque sign reads, "You who enter here are home."

After touring the museum, we ate lunch at Café Moka, where I ordered a cheese omelette with a side of greens and fries for just 7€. By 1:30 pm, jet lag beckoned and I was ready to hit the sack, so we headed back to the Maison by bus.

 

Eugenie and I met again for dinner at the Maison with Frederic. Dinner was cheese on toasts served on a bed of lettuce, tomato, and pear vinaigrette-dressed salad for starter, baked chicken with potatoes for main, and ice cream for dessert; and as usual red wine and water were served as well.

I had an enjoyable day with Eugenie and I'm very thankful for her company and knowledge of Bayonne and the Basque country. She made all the difference in my visit to Bayonne. Thanks be to God for the angels in my life.

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