Camino de Santiago: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)

I'm currently in a bizarre state of consciousness, feeling like I’m living between time zones - neither fully awake nor asleep. My head is groggy, and I feel as though I’m floating on a cloud, though not in a 'cloud nine' kind of way. All I need is deep, uninterrupted sleep of 8 to 10 hours to turn this around; right now, I am mentally and physically operating at less than full capacity. But all in good time. Eventually, this heavy fog of jet lag will pass.

Eugenie, a delightful 71-year-old Basque lady and retired maternity nurse, took me under her wing to show me around Bayonne today. I was pleasantly surprised to find that I could actually understand a fair bit of what she said - woohoo for that college semester of French! However, the real constraint came when I tried to speak back to her. I hit a wall, struggling to find the right French words to convey my thoughts. Practice makes perfect, though, and I fully intend to brush up on my French when I return home.

Despite my grogginess, we had a wonderful, fruitful day. In the morning, we visited a local market. It felt very much like the farmers’ markets back home, but with a far more exotic variety of goods. Stalls filled with local fromage (cheese) and jambon (ham) were everywhere. Many of the artisans we met were multi-generational Basque farmers who seemed immensely proud of their trade and heritage - as they absolutely should be.

From the market, we took a bus to the city center to see the Cathedrale St. Marie, simply known as the Bayonne Cathedral. Built between the 13th and 16th centuries, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 and connects directly to the historical pilgrimage routes feeding into the Camino Francés to Santiago de Compostela. The cloister dates all the way back to 1240. I loved how the Renaissance stained glass windows filtered the sunlight, casting a beautiful, warm reddish hue throughout the sanctuary.

Above: Walking into the historic center of Bayonne from the bus stop

Next, we walked to the Les Halles covered market, where I was intrigued - and a bit shocked - to find a vendor selling horse meat! That is definitely something I don't see every day in the States. 

Eugenie was an absolute gem of a local guide, constantly sharing wonderful little nuggets of information about Basque culture. She was always on the lookout to introduce me to her heritage. When we spotted a mail carrier on the street, she immediately insisted I take a photo because he was wearing a traditional black beret, a classic accessory for Basque men. She proudly added that all true Basque people have dark hair, so when she noticed a souvenir postcard depicting a blonde boy with a black beret labeled as Basque, she laughed heartily at the error. It’s adorable and endearing how she finds humor and pride in those little details.

Did you know that Bayonne is France's chocolate capital? The craft was actually introduced to the region by Jewish refugees fleeing the Inquisition in the 16th century. Eugenie took me to Chocolat Pascal to indulge in some authentic hot chocolate. I had originally read that Cazenave was the oldest and most famous shop in town and secretly thought about going there, but Eugenie assured me that while Cazenave was good, it was overpriced. She promised Chocolate Pascal was just as delicious and much easier on the wallet. She was right; the chocolat chaud was heavenly — a rich, traditional concoction served with a generous dollop of crème Chantilly (vanilla-flavored whipped cream).

Above (bottom right): Chocolatier, Pascal (in green) with violin-maker, Deon

Our next stop was the Basque Museum (Musée Basque), housed in a beautiful 16th-century townhouse at 37 Quai des Corsaires along the banks of the River Nive. Its extensive collection of Basque history, customs, and maritime heritage spans three levels and was worth the €6.50 admission fee.

Above: The Basque sign reads, "You who enter here are home."

After touring the museum, we grabbed a quick lunch at Café Moka, where I ordered a simple cheese omelet with a side of greens and fries for just €7. By 1:30 pm, the jet lag beckoned, and I was ready to hit the sack, so we caught a bus back to the Maison.

Later that evening, Eugenie and I met up again for a lovely dinner at the Maison with Frederic. We started with cheese on toast served over a crisp salad of lettuce and tomato tossed in a bright pear vinaigrette, followed by a main course of savory baked chicken and roasted potatoes. For dessert, we enjoyed ice cream, with plenty of red wine and water to pass around.

I had such a wonderful day with Eugenie, and I'm profoundly grateful for her company, her warmth, and her deep knowledge of the Basque country. She truly made all the difference in my visit to Bayonne. Thanks be to God for the angels He places in our lives.

Next post: Bayonne to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port (June 13, 2014)
Previous post: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)

Camino de Santiago: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)

I'm pleased to have met Madeleine and Gilbert at the Ephraim guesthouse. The couple, who had previously walked and completed the Camino on three different stages in their lives, had plenty of advice to offer. I loved listening to their stories and marveled at their quest for adventure and a prayerful life. Madeleine said to just “Be Happy,” and I couldn’t agree with her more. 

I also met Marie-Sophie, a faithful woman who volunteered at the guesthouse the night before to welcome guests who wished to stay the night. Her gentle demeanor gave proof of the light in her, and we parted with blessings to be with God.

Above: Madeleine et Gilbert

After breakfast (of bread, butter, and jam with hot beverages of tea, cocoa, and/or coffee), I checked out of the guesthouse and paused briefly for adoration at the Basilique before I made my way to the Montparnasse train station to catch a train to Bayonne. The Benedictine sisters were singing and praying in adoration to the Eucharist at the Basilique. I felt gratitude towards the sisters for hosting me and admiration and inspiration for their faithful devotion to God.

Above left: Crucifix in my room at Ephraim guesthouse; Above right: The bridge that links the guesthouse to the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre

Above left: St. Jean Paul at Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre; Above right: Gorgeous morning view from Montmartre

Above: The Ephraim guesthouse is adjoined to the Basilique by a bridge

When I boarded the TGV train at Montparnasse train station, the car I was in was already full of people standing near the door. As I entered the saloon to find my seat, I was surprised to see someone seating there. Pointing to my e-ticket, I said to her that I had reserved the seat. Judging from her body language and ranting (in French), I could tell that she was not pleased at the news. As she reluctantly got up, the man next to her said that she could have his seat, which was nice of him to offer. The train then left Montparnasse at 11 AM (after a slight delay of engine problem) and arrived in Gare de Bayonne at 3:45 PM. The ride was dull, and I slept most of the way.

Above left: Camembert sandwich (€4,70) for lunch; Above right: Arriving at Bayonne - first sight of other pilgrims

Above: Gare de Bayonne

Bayonne seems like a nice and simple town at first impression. Her pace is definitely slower than Paris, and the streets are narrow with Basque-influenced homes built close to the roads. I took bus no. 14 from Bayonne Gare (the train station bus stop) to Maison Diocésaine St. Leon and arrived about 10 minutes later at the guesthouse of the Diocese of Bayonne. The transport was cheap (€1), fast, and easy. 

No one was at the reception when I walked in, but left for me at the reception desk, was an envelope with my name and room number on it. It was an odd but trusting welcome since I had made the reservation for a single room (at €22/night) a few weeks ago by email to maisondio@numericable.fr and provided no other information, except my name and time of arrival. I didn't provide credit card information or pay a deposit either. I like that they have faith in me to behave responsibly.

I took the key and went in search of my room – “Where is everybody?” I wondered. Though the place seemed like a mini-labyrinth to a newcomer, I soon found my room and settled in. It’s bigger than the room in Paris but older; there’s a musky smell whenever I walk into the room. I also had to make my own bed with the linens provided, but I’m grateful nonetheless for not having to use my own equipment.

After a brief rest in my room, I went downstairs at 7 pm for dinner and stumbled upon a computer room and met someone there. Finally, a human being! Finally, Internet and human connection! Frederic, a French guest at the Maison, was really kind and patient as he tried to provide me with Wi-Fi information in the facility. He also helped me to sort out a dinner issue when my name wasn't listed for dinner. At dinner, he was my main translator and through him, I met a French lady, Eugenie, who wished to take me to the Centre tomorrow. We rendezvous to meet at 8 AM to go to the market tomorrow. I am touched by their giving nature and attribute it all to amazing Grace.

Dinner (€11) was a three-course meal of tuna, egg, and vegetables salad with bread for starter, pasta with chicken in Alfredo sauce for main, and Basque cheese and yogurt for dessert; red wine and water paired our meal.

Until next time, bliss and blessedness to you all.

Next post: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)
Previous post: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)     

Camino de Santiago: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)

The 12-to-13-hour flight into Paris, including a connection in Charlotte, was dull and uneventful. Because I had trouble sleeping, I whiled away the time by watching three newly released movies back-to-back: Frozen, Dallas Buyers Club, and Anchorman 2. I honestly can’t remember the last time I sat up to watch three movies a row! 

When we finally landed at Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), I was more than happy to deplane and get my feet back on solid ground. After breezing through immigration and customs, I headed to the first currency exchange kiosk I could find. It was a Travelex desk, and it felt like highway robbery – an exchange rate of 1.5290 from USD to Euros, a 6.5% commission fee, plus a frais d'échange (exchange fee) charge. There was nothing to do but suck it up and change enough cash to get me through my first day in the city!

I have to admit, I felt a little overwhelmed by the foreign environment right after landing. Just a few hours prior, I was safe in the States, and suddenly everything was entirely different. A wave of culture shock and surrealism hit me briefly before I mustered up the courage to feel calm and collected again. That is the true beauty of travel – the sudden, sharp change in perspective – and I absolutely love it!

A train ride on the RER and a transfer to bus number 54 later, I managed to find my way to Ephraim Guesthouse at the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre (thanks to my trusty compass!). I was incredibly grateful to be able to check into my room early at 10 am. For anyone planning a trip, I highly recommend using the RATP website (www.ratp.fr) to map out public transportation routes in and around Paris. For a half-board rate of 37 euros per night, I scored a tiny but clean, modern, and cozy room equipped with its own shower; the rate also includes both dinner and breakfast. Isn’t that splendid? (Feel free to email the sister in charge of the guesthouse to make reservations; you can also find basic info here.)

After such a long flight, a hot shower absolutely hit the spot. I even washed my clothes while in the shower to stay efficient, and took some time afterward to organize my toiletries so I'll be fully prepared for the communal albergues or refugios waiting for me down the trail.

The morning drizzle soon made way for a heavy downpour as I battled both jet lag and extreme sleeplessness. Eventually, I surrendered to the fatigue and crashed. As I lay in bed and stretched out my tired legs, I felt bliss and serenity. 'This place is a sanctuary,' I thought to myself. It was incredibly comforting to listen to the rain pitter-pattering outside my window and the birds singing cheerfully. At noon, the cathedral bells rang out, and I smiled. Now, this was a welcome change!

I woke up at 2:30 pm and, despite the lingering rain, decided to head out to Chapelle Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse (Chapel of our Lady of the Miraculous Medal). This historic chapel marks the exact site where the Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré, a novice sister of the Daughters of Charity, in 1830. Catherine received the inspiration for the medallion directly from Mother Mary and, after periods of contemplation, created the medal a few years later with the support of her bishop and the head of the Daughters of Charity. It was deemed miraculous when the medals, distributed to thousands of sick people in Paris, helped heal them of the cholera epidemic striking the city at the time. I felt blessed to arrive just in time for Mass at the chapel, even though it was entirely in French. Afterward, I asked a sister to bless my medallion which I’ve received and worn since 2011.

I never imagined I would have to pull out my rain poncho on my very first day, but I was glad I had it. As much as I had missed the rain while living in California, walking in a downpour is no fun, especially when you are trying to hold onto a paper notepad with directions written on it (thank God for waterproof ballpoint pens!). 

When the rain finally cleared at 5 pm, I was happy to pack my poncho away and sightsee with ease. I must admit, I’ve been entirely spoiled by the strict health laws in California; the sight of people smoking heavily on sidewalks and outside buildings caught me off guard. I found myself holding my breath each time I walked past a cloud of smoke. 'Live and let live!' I had to remind myself.

Above right: These French biscuits saved my morning when I got up at 4 am (jet lag) with a growling stomach - so glad I purchased them from a shop on my walk back to the guesthouse

Before dinner, I stopped by the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre for a peaceful adoration service. Back at the Ephraim Guesthouse, le dîner was simple but satisfying: pea soup, salad, and fresh bread to start, followed by pasta and quiche for the main course, and a packaged brownie with chocolate mousse for dessert – all accompanied by red wine. 

I dined alongside the other French guests. Thankfully, one of them spoke some English, allowing us to strike up a wonderful conversation. Everyone was incredibly kind. In fact, out on the streets of Paris, I’ve been continually aided by wonderful locals who, when approached, have been more than willing to help me find my way.

All in all, it was a very eventful first day in Paris. After dinner, I crawled into bed and slept like a baby. Until next time, pax et à bientôt!

Next post: From Paris to Bayonne

Previous post: A Journey's Start (again!)                      

Camino de Santiago: A Journey's Start (again!)

Well, this is it. I'm all packed and ready to go. Daily plans, checked. What to see and do the first week in France, checked. How to get to where I need to go, checked. Back packed, checked. Travel alert calls to financial institutions, checked. Spiritually prepared? Well, I'm as prepared as I can be, the rest is up to God. I only need to be aware that my plans are not necessarily God's plans. May His will be done, always. 

Today, a good friend handed me an envelope filled with 90 inspirational notes; I'll pick one to read each day I'm on the road. (Thanks so much, Maureen, for your thoughtful and apropos gift!) So, since I'm leaving my abode today, I'll share the first note here:

"If you are distressed by anything eternal, the pain is not due to the thing itself but to your estimate of it; and this you have the power to revoke at any moment.” – Marcus Aurelius

In appreciation of buddies who generously shared their time and treasure with me - with Vanya, Lisa, and Damir

In gratitude, I wish you all love, peace, and joy!

Next post: My First Day in Paris

Previous post: My Pack List                              

Camino de Santiago: My Pack List

"The lighter, the better" - oh, if only I can heed the advice of the many who had gone before me. 10 percent of my body weight is the suggested weight for my pack, but try as I may, I simply couldn't keep it between 12-13 lbs (or 5.5-5.9 kg); putting on extra pounds on myself is also out of the question.

The first time I packed, it weighed an alarming 24 lbs (or 10.9 kg), about 20 percent of my body weight. I panicked and was disheartened - there is no way I can continuously walk the Camino for weeks with that weight on my back. Stubbornly, after numerous iterations, I managed to reduce my pack list to weigh ~19 lbs (or 8.6 kg). It is currently around 15 percent of my body weight, and will likely stay that way. My self-imposed limit is 20 lbs (~9 kg) and if I must, I must - like bring an extra pair of walking sandals (in case of blisters and/or wet boots) and my electronics (so that I can blog!). Here is my pack list. With 2 weeks left to go, I may continue to make minor revisions to the list, but I envision the total weight to remain relatively unchanged.

When I was stuck, keeping my focus on what's more important really helped. The focus was and is always going to be my spiritual connection to God on this journey. When I am able to pull away from the details and see the bigger picture, and when I go with the flow and trust in God, I find inner peace and strength. I look forward to daily spiritual readings and reflections on the trail and connecting with nature and others I will meet along the way. That to me, my friend, is what is more important - not the material stuff.

Above: A hand-crocheted cross, a gift from a church friend, is affixed to my pack

Next post: A Journey's Start (again!)
Previous post: Credencial del Peregrino

Camino de Santiago: Credencial del Peregrino

I recently received my Credencial del Peregrino (Pilgrim passport) in the mail after submitting an online application at American Pilgrims. The credential identifies me as a pilgrim traveling on foot. When I register in the albergues or refugios in which I sleep along the Camino, I must show it to be stamped. To obtain my Compostela certificate, I must present the credential at the Pilgrims' Welcome Office in Santiago with completed stamps and dates. They require that I obtain two stamps per day throughout the final 100 kilometers on foot. It is in that office too that I will receive my final stamp. Since I'm planning to do the Camino in 60 days (give or take), I think it may be a good idea to ask for a second credential at St. Jean-Pied-de-Port in France where I will start.

I love the "Pilgrims Prayer" on the credential. Here's an excerpt: "God... Be their companion on the way, their guide at the crossroads, their strength in weariness, their defense in dangers, their shelter on the path, their shade in the heat, their light in darkness, their comfort in discouragement, and the firmness of their intentions; that through your guidance, they may arrive safely at the end of their journey and, enriched with grace and virtue, may return to their homes filled with salutary and lasting joy." (Click on the Pilgrims Prayer photo below to read the full prayer)

I also love-love-love the "Spirit of the Camino" listed on the credential. Here it is:

• Live in the moment
• Welcome each day - its pleasures and its challenges
• Make others feel welcome
• Share
• Feel the spirit of those who have gone before you
• Imagine those who will follow you
• Appreciate those who walk with you today 

Certainly applicable in life, not just on the Camino, if you ask my humble opinion.

Update: October 27, 2014

I ended up accumulating 3 books of credencials from my walk from SJPdP to Santiago de Compostela and a smaller one for my walk from Santiago to Finisterre (Fisterra). When I realized that bars, restaurants, churches, and museums along the Camino were also giving out stamps (in addition to the albergues), I started collecting them along the way. The result - a fabulous collection of souvenir stamps of places I'd visited! FYI, a new credencial cost about 2 euros each and you can purchase one at select albergues, pilgrims' offices, or gift/souvenir shops.

Next post: My Pack List

Previous post: The Why, What, When, and How