Camino de Santiago: Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port (June 13, 2014)

What do you know, a national train strike to spice up my Camino experience! When I arrived at the Bayonne train station (Gare de Bayonne) at 9:30 am, there was a tiny crowd of people gathering next to a posted schedule with 3 train staff at hand to talk to people (one at a time). The sale office was closed, and I was clueless as to what was going on. I wanted to buy a ticket for the 11:07 am departure to St. Jean Pied de Port and needed help. I tried to buy the ticket from the machine, but it prompted me to ask a staff for help. 

So, I got the attention of a staff who could speak some English, and she informed me about the strike. She said that there would be no trains operating to St. Jean Pied de Port, BUT a bus is operating that route and that I could buy a ticket for the 11:07 am departure. Phew! She asked if I had a credit card, and I replied affirmatively only to discover that my card wouldn’t work on the machine because it doesn’t have a chip on it. She asked if I had exact change for €9,80 (or €10), but I didn’t. 

So, she very kindly called out to the crowd if anyone was going to St. Jean Pied de Port too and could buy a ticket for me with their credit card and I would pay them back. A man walked up to the machine and said that he could help – he was planning to buy 2 tickets originally but could purchase 3 instead. 

Nick, from Canada, was the kind man who helped me out. The staff proceeded to guide him through the purchase on the machine, and I paid Nick in cash later. I’m just so amazed at the help I’ve received on the way. I’m really thankful to God for being there for me.

Above: Nick and Amanda

I learned that the national train strike started on Wednesday, the day I took the TGV train from Paris to Bayonne. Thankfully, the route between Paris and Bayonne was not part of the strike deal and so it was not affected. It all made sense now to me as I had seen people standing near the doors and in between cars on the train ride to Bayonne and I’d wondered why they didn’t have an assigned seat. I realized now that they’d hopped onto the train to try to get as close as they could to their destinations since the other trains were not in service.

Truth be told, I missed Eugenie while waiting at the train station and on the ride to St. Jean Pied de Port. It's funny how quickly I could have developed a bond with her. I’m really grateful for her generosity and lively spirit. She lit a candle for me at the Cathedral and prayed for my pilgrimage. She also asked me to visit her the next time I’m in France. It’s so heart-warming to run into kind people like her.

As St. Jean Pied de Port is where I will start the walk, I feel some apprehension now that I’m finally here. At the same time, I'm grateful to have arrived. While walking around the medieval town, I chanced upon the Notre Dame du Bout du Pont church. It is the French Basque country’s second-largest Gothic building after the Bayonne Cathedral. I loved the silence inside the church and paused to thank God for bringing me here safely to start the walk. It helps to keep my eyes focused on the prize and not get too bogged down by the noise around me.

Above left: St. Jean Pied de Port train station

Above: Historic Rue de la Citadelle

Above right: The gate of Notre-Dame (tall vertical tower) separates the Rue de la Citadelle from the bridge crossing the river Nive to Rue d'Espagne

Above left: The pink sandstone facade of the church of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont

Above right: The gate of Notre-Dame has statues of St. John the Baptist and the Virgin and Child to protect the travelers below 

Above left: Beds at Beilari; Above right: Some souvenirs at St. Jean Pied de Port

With that, I will sign off for today. Bonne journée and God bless!

Next post: Day 1 - St. Jean Pied de Port to Valcarlos (June 14, 2014)

Previous post: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)

Camino de Santiago: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)

I'm in a weird state of consciousness. I feel like I’m living in between time zones, neither awake nor asleep. My head is groggy and I feel like I’m floating on a cloud but not in a “cloud nine” kind of way. All I need is deep, uninterrupted sleep of 8-10 hours to turn this around because mentally and physically, I’m operating on less-than-full capacity. All in its good time. Eventually, this jet lag feeling too will pass.

Eugenie, a 71-year-old Basque lady and retired maternity ward nurse, took me around Bayonne today. I was pleasantly surprised that I understood her a little bit (Woohoo for a college semester in French!), but I felt constraint when I tried to speak to her in French. I had difficulty finding the French words to convey my thoughts. Practice makes perfect, so I hope to brush up on my French when I return home.

We had a fruitful day. In the morning, we went to a local market, very much like the farmer’s market we have back home but with more exotic variety. Local fromage (cheese) and jambon (ham) were common. Several artisans there were multi-generational Basque farmers, and they seemed proud of their trade and heritage, as they should be.

From the market, we took a bus to the center to see the Cathedrale St. Marie, or simply known as the Bayonne Cathedral. The Cathedral, built between 13th-C and 16th-C, is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998 and is part of the Camino Frances to Santiago de Compostela. The cloister dates back to 1240. I loved how the Renaissance stained glass windows filtered the sunlight to form a reddish hue inside the Cathedral where light appeared.

Above: Walking into the historic center of Bayonne from the bus stop

Next, we walked to Halles (covered) Market where I was intrigued by a vendor who sold horse meat (!). That's something I don't see every day in the States. Eugenie was a gem of a local guide as she shared little nuggets of information about the Basque culture with me. She was always on the lookout to introduce all things Basque to me. When we saw a post man on the street, she immediately asked me to take a photo of him because he was wearing the typical black beret, a common accessory for all Basque men. She added that all Basque people have dark hair, so when she saw a postcard depicting a young blonde boy with a black beret identified as a Basque, she laughed at the error. It’s adorable that she finds humor in little things.

Chocolate, introduced to the region by Jews who fled the inquisition in the 16th-C, is huge in Bayonne; the city is France's chocolate capital. Eugenie took me to Chocolat Pascal to have hot chocolate even though I read that Cazenave was the oldest chocolate shop in Bayonne and I had thoughts of going there. She said that Cazenave was good but very expensive and assured me that Chocolate Pascal was just as good but easier on the pocket. I like how down-to-earth and honest she is. And she was right - the Chocolat Chaud Pascal was absolutely heavenly. It’s a traditional concoction served with crème de chantilly (vanilla-flavored whipped cream).

Above (bottom right): Chocolatier, Pascal (in green) with violin-maker, Deon

Our next stop was the Basque Museum located at 37 Quai des Corsaires. The museum is located in a 16th-C historic townhouse on the banks of the River Nive. Its extensive collection of Basque records, customs, and culture spread out on three levels was worth the €6,50 per entry. Besides the tools, attire, and way of life of the Basque people, the museum also showcases the maritime past of the Basque country.

Above: The Basque sign reads, "You who enter here are home."

After touring the museum, we ate lunch at Café Moka, where I ordered a cheese omelette with a side of greens and fries for just €7. By 1:30 pm, jet lag beckoned, and I was ready to hit the sack, so we headed back to the Maison by bus.

 

Eugenie and I met again for dinner at the Maison with Frederic. Dinner was cheese on toasts served on a bed of lettuce, tomato, and pear vinaigrette-dressed salad for starter, baked chicken with potatoes for main, and ice cream for dessert; and as usual red wine and water were offered as well.

I had an enjoyable day with Eugenie, and I'm very thankful for her company and knowledge of Bayonne and the Basque country. She made all the difference in my visit to Bayonne. Thanks be to God for the angels in my life.

Next post: Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port (June 13, 2014)
Previous post: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)

Camino de Santiago: From Paris to Bayonne (June 11, 2014)

I'm pleased to have met Madeleine and Gilbert at the Ephraim guesthouse. The couple, who had previously walked and completed the Camino on three different stages in their lives, had plenty of advice to offer. I loved listening to their stories and marveled at their quest for adventure and a prayerful life. Madeleine said to just “Be Happy,” and I couldn’t agree with her more. 

I also met Marie-Sophie, a faithful woman who volunteered at the guesthouse the night before to welcome guests who wished to stay the night. Her gentle demeanor gave proof of the light in her, and we parted with blessings to be with God.

Above: Madeleine et Gilbert

After breakfast (of bread, butter, and jam with hot beverages of tea, cocoa, and/or coffee), I checked out of the guesthouse and paused briefly for adoration at the Basilique before I made my way to the Montparnasse train station to catch a train to Bayonne. The Benedictine sisters were singing and praying in adoration to the Eucharist at the Basilique. I felt gratitude towards the sisters for hosting me and admiration and inspiration for their faithful devotion to God.

Above left: Crucifix in my room at Ephraim guesthouse; Above right: The bridge that links the guesthouse to the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre

Above left: St. Jean Paul at Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre; Above right: Gorgeous morning view from Montmartre

Above: The Ephraim guesthouse is adjoined to the Basilique by a bridge

When I boarded the TGV train at Montparnasse train station, the car I was in was already full of people standing near the door. As I entered the saloon to find my seat, I was surprised to see someone seating there. Pointing to my e-ticket, I said to her that I had reserved the seat. Judging from her body language and ranting (in French), I could tell that she was not pleased at the news. As she reluctantly got up, the man next to her said that she could have his seat, which was nice of him to offer. The train then left Montparnasse at 11 AM (after a slight delay of engine problem) and arrived in Gare de Bayonne at 3:45 PM. The ride was dull, and I slept most of the way.

Above left: Camembert sandwich (€4,70) for lunch; Above right: Arriving at Bayonne - first sight of other pilgrims

Above: Gare de Bayonne

Bayonne seems like a nice and simple town at first impression. Her pace is definitely slower than Paris, and the streets are narrow with Basque-influenced homes built close to the roads. I took bus no. 14 from Bayonne Gare (the train station bus stop) to Maison Diocésaine St. Leon and arrived about 10 minutes later at the guesthouse of the Diocese of Bayonne. The transport was cheap (€1), fast, and easy. 

No one was at the reception when I walked in, but left for me at the reception desk, was an envelope with my name and room number on it. It was an odd but trusting welcome since I had made the reservation for a single room (at €22/night) a few weeks ago by email to maisondio@numericable.fr and provided no other information, except my name and time of arrival. I didn't provide credit card information or pay a deposit either. I like that they have faith in me to behave responsibly.

I took the key and went in search of my room – “Where is everybody?” I wondered. Though the place seemed like a mini-labyrinth to a newcomer, I soon found my room and settled in. It’s bigger than the room in Paris but older; there’s a musky smell whenever I walk into the room. I also had to make my own bed with the linens provided, but I’m grateful nonetheless for not having to use my own equipment.

After a brief rest in my room, I went downstairs at 7 pm for dinner and stumbled upon a computer room and met someone there. Finally, a human being! Finally, Internet and human connection! Frederic, a French guest at the Maison, was really kind and patient as he tried to provide me with Wi-Fi information in the facility. He also helped me to sort out a dinner issue when my name wasn't listed for dinner. At dinner, he was my main translator and through him, I met a French lady, Eugenie, who wished to take me to the Centre tomorrow. We rendezvous to meet at 8 AM to go to the market tomorrow. I am touched by their giving nature and attribute it all to amazing Grace.

Dinner (€11) was a three-course meal of tuna, egg, and vegetables salad with bread for starter, pasta with chicken in Alfredo sauce for main, and Basque cheese and yogurt for dessert; red wine and water paired our meal.

Until next time, bliss and blessedness to you all.

Next post: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)
Previous post: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)     

Camino de Santiago: My First Day in Paris (June 10, 2014)

The 12-13 hour flight into Paris (with a connection in Charlotte) was dull and uneventful. I whiled away time by watching three newly released movies (“Frozen”, “Dallas Buyers Club”, and “Anchorman 2”) as I had trouble sleeping. I can’t remember the last time I sat up to watch 3 movies back to back. 

When we arrived at CDG (Paris airport), I was more than happy to deplane and be back on the ground. After brisking through immigration and customs, I went to the first money exchange I could see. Travelex was it, and it was highway robbery big time – 1.5290 rate to change USD to Euros and a 6.5% commission fee plus this Frais d’echange charge? So, what can I say but suck it up and change some money to get me through the first day in Paris!

I must say that I felt a little overwhelmed at the foreign environment around me at landing. A few hours ago, I was in the States, and now everything’s different. Culture shock and surrealism hit me briefly as I mustered up courage to feel calm and collected again. This is the beauty of travel – the sudden change in perspective - and I love it!

A train (RER) and bus (no. 54) later, I found my way to Ephraim guesthouse at the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre (thanks to my compass!), and I was grateful to be able to check into my room at 10 AM. (For those of you who are interested, I used the www.ratp.fr site to plan my public transportation routes in and around Paris.) For a half-board rate of 37 euros, I have myself a tiny but clean, modern, and cozy room equipped with a shower; the rate also includes dinner and breakfast. Isn’t that just splendid? Email the sister in charge of the guesthouse at  to make reservations if you're interested. You can also find basic info here.

After a long flight, a hot shower always hits the spot. In the shower, I also washed my clothes to be efficient. I took the time as well to organize my toiletries so that I'm more prepared when I’m in the communal albergues or refugios.

The morning drizzle made way for heavy rain as I battled jet lag and sleeplessness. I surrendered to the atmosphere and fatigue and crashed. As I laid in bed and stretched out my tired legs, I felt bliss and serenity. “This place’s a sanctuary,” I thought to myself. It was very comforting to listen to rain pitter-pattering outside my window and birds singing cheerfully. At noon, the cathedral bells rang, and I smiled. Now this was a welcome change!

I awoke at 2:30 pm and, despite the rain, decided to head out to Chapelle Notre Dame de la Medaille Miraculeuse to pay a visit. This chapel was the site where the Virgin Mary appeared to Catherine Labouré, a novice sister of the Daughters of Charity, in 1830. Catherine received the inspiration to design a medallion from Mother Mary and after periods of contemplation, created the medal a few years later with the support of the bishop and the head of the Daughters of Charity. It was deemed miraculous when the medal, distributed to thousands of sick people in Paris, healed them of cholera, an epidemic that struck around that time. I felt blessed to arrive in time for Mass at the chapel (even though it was in French). After Mass, I asked a sister there to bless my medallion which I’ve received and worn since 2011.

I never thought I would pull out my rain poncho on the first day of arrival, but I was glad for it. As much as I missed the rain living in California, walking in it was no fun, especially when I was holding onto a notepad with directions written on it (thank God for ball-point pens). 

When the rain stopped at 5 PM, I was happy to pack my poncho away and sightsee with ease. I must say, I’ve been spoiled by the health laws in California because the sight of people standing idly and smoking outside buildings and on sidewalks repulsed me. I held my breath each time I walked past the smokers. “Live and let live!” I reminded myself.

Above right: These French biscuits saved my morning when I got up at 4 am (jet lag) with a growling stomach - so glad I purchased them from a shop on my walk back to the guesthouse

I stopped in at the Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre for adoration service prior to dinner at the Ephraim guesthouse. Le dinêr was simple: pea soup, salad, and bread for starters, pasta and quiche for main, and a packaged brownie and chocolate mousse for dessert; red wine was served as well. 

I ate with the other French guests, one of whom thankfully spoke some English, so I was able to converse with her. They’re all very nice – in fact, on the streets of Paris too, I’ve been aided by many wonderful Parisians, who when approached were more than willing to help.

So, it was a very eventful first day here in Paris. After dinner, I crashed and slept like a baby. Until next time, pax et a bientôt!

Next post: From Paris to Bayonne

Previous post: A Journey's Start (again!)                      

Camino de Santiago: A Journey's Start (again!)

Well, this is it. I'm all packed and ready to go. Daily plans, checked. What to see and do the first week in France, checked. How to get to where I need to go, checked. Back packed, checked. Travel alert calls to financial institutions, checked. Spiritually prepared? Well, I'm as prepared as I can be, the rest is up to God. I only need to be aware that my plans are not necessarily God's plans. May His will be done, always. 

Today, a good friend handed me an envelope filled with 90 inspirational notes; I'll pick one to read each day I'm on the road. (Thanks so much, Maureen, for your thoughtful and apropos gift!) So, since I'm leaving my abode today, I'll share the first note here:

"If you are distressed by anything eternal, the pain is not due to the thing itself but to your estimate of it; and this you have the power to revoke at any moment.” – Marcus Aurelius

In appreciation of buddies who generously shared their time and treasure with me - with Vanya, Lisa, and Damir

In gratitude, I wish you all love, peace, and joy!

Next post: My First Day in Paris

Previous post: My Pack List