Camino de Santiago: Bayonne to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port (June 13, 2014)

What do you know - a national train strike to spice up my Camino experience! When I arrived at the Bayonne train station (Gare de Bayonne) at 9:30 am, a small crowd had already gathered around a posted schedule, where three railway staff members were assisting travelers one by one. The ticket office was completely shut down, leaving me entirely clueless about what was happening. I needed to buy a ticket for the 11:07 am departure to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port, but when I tried using the automated kiosk, the screen simply prompted me to seek staff assistance. 

I managed to get the attention of an employee who spoke some English, and she broke the news about the strike: no trains were running to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Fortunately, a replacement bus was operating the same route at 11:07 am. Phew! However, the hurdles weren't over. When she asked if I had a credit card, I happily said yes - only to realize my card wouldn’t work because it lacked a chip. She then asked if I had the exact cash change of €9.80 (or €10), which I didn't have either. 

Displaying incredible kindness and patience, the staff member called out to the crowd, asking if anyone heading to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port too could charge an extra ticket to their credit card in exchange for my cash. A man stepped forward immediately. He was already planning to buy two tickets, so he simply bumped his order up to three.

That kind stranger turned out to be Nick from Canada. The agent guided him through the kiosk purchase, and I paid Nick back in cash later. I’m continually amazed by the help I’ve received along the way, and I’m deeply thankful to God for looking out for me when I needed it most.

Above: Nick and Amanda

I later learned that the national train strike had actually started on Wednesday - the very day I took the TGV train from Paris to Bayonne. Thankfully, because that specific high-speed line wasn't impacted, my trip went off without a hitch. It all made sense to me now; during the ride to Bayonne, I had noticed people standing near the doors and crowding between the train cars, wondering why they didn’t have assigned seats. Now I realized they were desperate travelers hopping onto any moving train just to get as close to their destinations as possible.

Truth be told, I found myself missing Eugenie while waiting at the station and during the bus ride to St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port. It's funny how quickly we bonded. I’m incredibly grateful for her generosity and lively spirit; she even lit a candle for me at the Cathedral and prayed for my pilgrimage. She asked me to visit her the next time I’m in France. It’s truly heartwarming to encounter kind people like her.

Now that I'm finally in St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port - the official starting point of my trek - a wave of apprehension has set in. Yet, mixed with the nerves is a profound sense of gratitude. While exploring the medieval town, I chanced upon the Church of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont, which is the French Basque country’s second-largest Gothic building after the Bayonne Cathedral. I loved the deep silence inside and paused to thank God for bringing me here safely to start the walk. It helps to keep my eyes focused on the prize and not get too bogged down by the noise around me.

Above left: St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port train station

Above: Historic Rue de la Citadelle

Above right: The gate of Notre-Dame (tall vertical tower) separates the Rue de la Citadelle from the bridge crossing the river Nive to Rue d'Espagne

Above left: The pink sandstone facade of the Church of Notre-Dame-du-Bout-du-Pont

Above right: The gate of Notre-Dame has statues of St. John the Baptist and the Virgin and Child to protect the travelers below 

Above left: Beds at Beilari; Above right: Some souvenirs from St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port

With that, I will sign off for today. Bonne journée and God bless!

Next post: Day 1 - St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Valcarlos (June 14, 2014)

Previous post: Bayonne (June 12, 2014)