Cartagena de Indias, founded in 1533 by Governor Pedro de Heredia, used to be the main Spanish port gateway of the Caribbean coast where gold and other treasures from the indigenous people were shipped back to Spain. Thick walls (las murallas) and forts had to be constructed around the city to fortify the city against pirate sieges of these treasures. The walls still remain today, enclosing a beautiful and charming La Ciudad de Antigua. At first glance, this old city reminded me of our dear Vieux Carre in New Orleans, which shares a similar Spanish past as a former colony. I like the combination of the Caribbean and Spanish influence in Cartagena de Indias on the people (Afro-Caribbeans, Creoles, and other ethnic groups), the food, the music, the handicrafts and of course the architecture.
It was a long traverse from Medellin to Cartagena de Indias. The 12-hour overnight bus on Expreso Brasilia from Medellin was uncomfortable and painful on my knees. Still, I managed to sleep most of the way and arrived with sufficient energy to last me through the rest of the morning. A one-way ticket Medellin-Cartagena cost 85,000 Colombian pesos (or US$42.50). Next, I took a Metrocar bus from the terminal to the Centro - this took another 40-45 minutes. The cost was a flat 1,500 pesos (or US$0.75). Finally, there was the walk through the historic fortified town in search of lodging for 3 nights. The sweltering heat and humidity, plus a 17kg pack on my back and a smaller one in front, was almost too much for me to bear. When I finally found Hotel El Viajero (after a good 30 minutes of wandering around town), I was relieved beyond words. The rate of 40,000 pesos (or US$20) a night was fair considering the free WiFi, a private room with an en suite bath, and a central location.
It was a long traverse from Medellin to Cartagena de Indias. The 12-hour overnight bus on Expreso Brasilia from Medellin was uncomfortable and painful on my knees. Still, I managed to sleep most of the way and arrived with sufficient energy to last me through the rest of the morning. A one-way ticket Medellin-Cartagena cost 85,000 Colombian pesos (or US$42.50). Next, I took a Metrocar bus from the terminal to the Centro - this took another 40-45 minutes. The cost was a flat 1,500 pesos (or US$0.75). Finally, there was the walk through the historic fortified town in search of lodging for 3 nights. The sweltering heat and humidity, plus a 17kg pack on my back and a smaller one in front, was almost too much for me to bear. When I finally found Hotel El Viajero (after a good 30 minutes of wandering around town), I was relieved beyond words. The rate of 40,000 pesos (or US$20) a night was fair considering the free WiFi, a private room with an en suite bath, and a central location.
Above left: Plaza de Bolivar; Above right: Facade of Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the city's oldest church
Above: Interior of Iglesia de Santo Domingo
Above left: Almuerzo (set lunch) - Arroz con Pollo (Rice with chicken) y Sopa de Hueso (Bone soup); with a bottled water (agua con gas), the meal cost 6,500 pesos (or US$3.25);
Above right: Almuerzo (set lunch) - Pollo de Curry y sopa (Chicken curry and soup). The meal cost 4,800 pesos (or US$2.40)
On the peninsula strip south of the old town lies the new tourist district in Bocagrande and El Laguito. Here, modern high-rise condos and hotels line the Caribbean beach on one side and the Bay (bahia) on the other side of the peninsula. I caught the first sunset of the trip here in Bocagrande.
A tour to the Islas del Rosario (an archipelago of coral isles about 35 km (21.7 miles) southwest of Cartagena) and Playa Blanca (white beach) on the Isla de Baru completed my visit to Cartagena de Indias. The 45-minute boat ride to the isles was not for the faint of heart. It was back-(and at some points, neck-)breaking for those in the front row seat (i.e. me) as the small boat was speeding at an easy 30-40 mph! Coupled with a full bladder, this was one of the longest and toughest rides for me and I wouldn't wish this on anyone. I was thinking to myself, "what if a woman passenger is preg-o or another has a heart-condition? They won't be able to survive the ride for sure!" It was that (choppy) bad. Islas del Rosario was a bore since I didn't go in the water to see the corals but Playa Blanca (where we had lunch) was a delight. I enjoyed the white sandy beach and warm breeze and whiled the afternoon away with an after-lunch siesta on the beach. It was also a ruse to ignore the annoying and very persistent touters of costume jewelery, massages or hair-braiding services. "Chica, masaje?" Oh, for heaven's sake, "NO gracias". Just leave me alone!
Above left: View of Bocagrande and El Laguito
Above right: View of the Bay
Above right: Sunset(ing) on the Caribbean coast
A tour to the Islas del Rosario (an archipelago of coral isles about 35 km (21.7 miles) southwest of Cartagena) and Playa Blanca (white beach) on the Isla de Baru completed my visit to Cartagena de Indias. The 45-minute boat ride to the isles was not for the faint of heart. It was back-(and at some points, neck-)breaking for those in the front row seat (i.e. me) as the small boat was speeding at an easy 30-40 mph! Coupled with a full bladder, this was one of the longest and toughest rides for me and I wouldn't wish this on anyone. I was thinking to myself, "what if a woman passenger is preg-o or another has a heart-condition? They won't be able to survive the ride for sure!" It was that (choppy) bad. Islas del Rosario was a bore since I didn't go in the water to see the corals but Playa Blanca (where we had lunch) was a delight. I enjoyed the white sandy beach and warm breeze and whiled the afternoon away with an after-lunch siesta on the beach. It was also a ruse to ignore the annoying and very persistent touters of costume jewelery, massages or hair-braiding services. "Chica, masaje?" Oh, for heaven's sake, "NO gracias". Just leave me alone!
Above: Playa Blanca, a beautiful beach on the Isla de Baru
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1 comment:
Nice beach... Love the architecture!
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