Walk with Sandra: Machu Picchu Camino Inca, Peru

Above: Machu Picchu

Four days of trekking the original "Inca royal highway" (with the Peru Treks group) led me to the glorious "lost city" of the Incas, famously known as Machu Picchu. It was THE best feeling in the world for me yet. Below is an account of my defining trek:

DAY 1:

The Day 1 trek from the starting point at KM 82 (around 9 AM) to the first camp at Wayllabamba (arriving at 4:30 PM) was relatively easy and a warming up of sort for the body, in preparation for the most challenging part of the hike on Day 2. The trail was punctuated by a few steep inclines but for the most part, it was relatively flat. We climbed a total of 500 m (1,640 ft) and walked 12 KM (7.5 miles) on Day 1.

I was immediately awed by the 18 porters (and 2 cooks) in our group who not only had to lug heavy packs of camping equipment on their backs, but they were also zipping by us like seasoned mountain goats! (Shame on us for complaining about our cushy office jobs!) Some in our group hired personal porters to carry (up to) 6 KG (13.2 lbs) of their personal belongings on the trail. I opted out of this as I wanted to test my endurance and strength. I estimated my pack (with a sleeping bag, a cushion pad, 4 days of clothes and other essentials like a basic first aid kit and lots of saltine crackers!) to weigh about 10 KG (22 lbs).

The food they served us on the trek was nothing less than outstanding, considering the difficult Andean environments. There were no SPAM or canned beans here - we're talking grilled trouts, salads, rice, and lots of coca tea for energy, amongst other good and high-energy food dished out throughout the trail. For each meal, the porters would set up a table and cover it with a table cloth and table set with utensils and napkins - all this under a huge tent that could fit 20 people. Before each meal, the porters would have soap and water ready for us to wash our hands before we eat. They were awesome!

The first night at Wayllabamba camp was quite an experience. Exhausted from the trek, I slept like a baby through the night, but I was awakened periodically by screaming donkeys and dogs fighting outside our tent. We were after all, camped right in the middle of an Andean village.

Above: Crossing the Vilcanota River

Above right: Porters from a different trekking company

Above: Patallacta

Above right: The snow capped peak of Veronica @ 5,860 m (19,226 ft)

Above: Seen at Wayllabamba (an Andean village) - "We accept Visa and Master Card" - Sorry, no AMEX or Discover

DAY 2:All 15 of us on the trek (minus the 2 guides, 2 cooks and 18 porters) knew what was coming for us. We were to climb to the highest point of the trail at 4,200 m (13,780 ft) to reach the Dead Woman's Pass before descending to the second camp at Paqaymayu at 3,600 m (11,811 ft). All in, it was to be another 12 KM (7.5 miles) of hiking. The head guide had to persuade a guy in our group to quit as he was seemingly unfit to proceed - he took a long time to climb on Day 1 and did not have any appetite to eat. On this trek, you need to eat A LOT to replenish lost energy. After he left, we were down to 14 in our group.
My pack was starting to weigh down on my shoulders and it felt like I was carrying a 20 KG (44 lbs) pack of stones. Still, I climbed - slowly but surely. I kept a constant and comfortable pace and was mindful not to over-exert myself. This was not a race against your fellow mates but a mental and physical test of one's own inner strength and endurance. Midway through the climb, I noticed red capillaries were showing on my hands - my body was adjusting to the altitude and physical energy by pumping oxygen to every part of my body. By now, I have acclimatized to the altitude (having stayed at Cusco for a good number of days) and the thin air was no longer an issue. For some of us in our group, however, they were gasping for air like a fish out of water. It was a misery for them.

Above: A Huayruro ornamental tree with distinct red and black seeds

Above: I survived the 'Dead Woman's Pass' @ elevation 4,200 m (13,780 ft) - the highest elevation I've climbed to thus far

DAY 3: We rose at 5:30 AM and was again served a steaming cup of coca tea at our tent (my best wake-up call by far!). After a delicious and high-energy breakfast, we set off for an unforgettable day 3 of hiking to soak in great views of mountain ranges, mystical terraced ruins and incredible flora amidst a cloud forest - a total trek of 15 KM (9.3 miles) on Day 3. We climbed to the highest peak of the day at 3,950 m (12,959 ft) to reach the second pass at Qochapata. The climb was relatively easy as I was at my peak in energy and loved every moment of my time up there in the mountains. By now, I was at one with pachamama (Quechua for mother earth).

It started to pour heavily in the mid-afternoon after lunch which made the descent down the 1,000 or so steep and slippery steps from the third pass to the final camp at Winay Wayna a rough one as my heavily soaked pants were weighing down and sticking to my skin. This plus my urge to answer nature's call practically made me roll down the hill. I made it down to Winay Wayna at 4:00 PM, soaked but happy to have arrived safely. I bought a hot shower for 5 soles at the camp and after another wonderful dinner, retired the night early in preparation for the final hike to Machu Picchu the following morning.

Above: Coca tea brought to the tent with the morning wake-up call

Above: Runkuracay

Above right: @ the Second Pass @ Qochapata, 3,950 m (12,959 ft)

Above: Sayacmarca aka "Inaccessible town" for its location where 3 sides were protected by cliffs and the only way up there was to climb a narrow steep stoned staircase

Above right: Perhaps the best meal on the trek! Pork, quinoa, highland potatoes, and a form of mashed potato ball with hard boiled egg and olive...delish!

Above right: Phuyupatamarca aka "Town in the Clouds"

Above right: Rainbow @ Urubamba Valley near Camp #3 Winay Wayna

Above right: The last supper on the Inca Trail

Above: Celebrating Shawn's birthday

DAY 4:We woke at 4:30 AM to get ready to stand in line at the post to walk the final Camino Inca. The gate opened at 5:30 AM and after another 1.5 hours of hiking, I was finally at the Sun Gate (Intipunku) where I caught my first glimpse of Machu Picchu. It was a lovely sight and an awakening that I was almost at the end of my trek. 20 minutes later, I was standing at the picturesque spot near the "Watchman's hut" admiring the stunning Machu Picchu. She was graceful and majestic. Ah, what a perfect end to an incredible trek!!!