For a few days during my last term break, I visited the laid-back southern coastal town of Kep. To say that I was both pleasantly surprised by Kep's relaxed slow-paced lifestyle and almost non-existent traffic would be accurate. It truly was a breath of fresh air (both literally- and figuratively-speaking) to see wide well-paved streets and sidewalks, sparse population, and calming natural views of mountains and beaches there. My allergies stopped acting up in Kep too which was good-enough proof that the air quality there is better than Phnom Penh's.
Formerly a popular French colonial beach retreat in the early 20th century, Kep today is a common quick weekend get-away for many local tourists. When I was there, a horde of local tourists occupied the sidewalk next to a beach with their large straw mats. Laid out on them were a smorgasbord of mouth-watering home-cooked Khmer delicacies, including Kep-sourced seafood which was cheap and delicious. Also, with the French elites and wealthy gone, many dilapidated French villas stood abandoned in Kep today. They were creepy, dark, and not the least bit intriguing to me.
I stayed a few nights in a humble thatch hut at a socially-conscious guesthouse Khmer Hands, which is within walking distance from the tranquil sailing club and the must-see crab market. Khmer Hands owners Kris and Naome made all the difference with their unassuming warmth and hospitality. I spent a day sight-seeing around Kep's salt flat plantations, vegetable and pepper farms, and a natural cave. I also spent a day of sun, sand, and sea at peaceful and quiet Rabbit Island (also known as Koh Thonsay), which was a short boat ride from a Kep pier.
It was easy getting to Kep. The minivan ride from Phnom Penh to Kep took just 3-4 hours - too easy and convenient. So, if you feel a respite from Phnom Penh is called for, Kep may be a good place to visit.
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