Beilari, the guesthouse I stayed in last night in St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port, was the perfect way to begin the Camino. Their €26 rate included a bed, dinner, and breakfast, but the absolute highlight was the communal dinner. It gave us a wonderful opportunity to connect and share stories before setting off.
We had a great mix of nationalities at the table, with pilgrims representing France, Belgium, Denmark, Hong Kong, Portugal, the Netherlands, Spain, the U.K., and the U.S. We started the evening with a relaxing aperitif and introductions, followed by a delicious meal of cream of zucchini soup to start, rice and vegetables for the main course, and yogurt with herbal tea for dessert - complemented by plenty of fresh bread, water, and wine.
We had a great mix of nationalities at the table, with pilgrims representing France, Belgium, Denmark, Hong Kong, Portugal, the Netherlands, Spain, the U.K., and the U.S. We started the evening with a relaxing aperitif and introductions, followed by a delicious meal of cream of zucchini soup to start, rice and vegetables for the main course, and yogurt with herbal tea for dessert - complemented by plenty of fresh bread, water, and wine.
After breakfast at Beilari, I officially started the Camino at 7:50 am at the historic Pilgrim's Gate in St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port on a beautiful, tranquil morning. It took me 4 hours to cover the 12.9 km (8 miles) to Valcarlos, a Basque town in Navarra, Spain.
The solo morning walk was absolutely marvelous. Heading south across rolling farmlands, through lush river valleys, and into quiet forests, with the Pyrenees looming in the distance, I felt like I was walking through God's country. I loved seeing goats, cows, and sheep grazing freely in the green pastures, and watching wild flowers along the path. Summer is truly upon us, and everything around me felt alive and well. Along the way, cyclists zoomed by, calling out a cheerful 'Buen Camino!' as they passed. I also chatted briefly with warm, welcoming locals who seemed genuinely happy to greet a pilgrim.
The solo morning walk was absolutely marvelous. Heading south across rolling farmlands, through lush river valleys, and into quiet forests, with the Pyrenees looming in the distance, I felt like I was walking through God's country. I loved seeing goats, cows, and sheep grazing freely in the green pastures, and watching wild flowers along the path. Summer is truly upon us, and everything around me felt alive and well. Along the way, cyclists zoomed by, calling out a cheerful 'Buen Camino!' as they passed. I also chatted briefly with warm, welcoming locals who seemed genuinely happy to greet a pilgrim.
Above: You may wish to listen to the Pilgrims' Hymn as you start your pictorial tour of my first day on the Camino
Above: Starting the Camino at the Gate of St. Jacques - a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, this is the historic entrance for pilgrims enroute to Santiago de Compostela via St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port toward Roncevalles.
Above left: After crossing the gate of Notre-Dame; this gate has the statues of St. John the Baptist and the Virgin and Child, which bless all travelers below
Above left: Flora on the Camino - purple foxgloves (top left) are commonly seen
Above: Having crossed the border to Navarra, Spain, I arrived at Arneguy at 10:40 am
Above left: View of Valcarlos, where I stayed the night
I checked into a wonderfully quiet albergue in Valcarlos - using an entry code given to me by a friendly face at a nearby restaurant - and had the entire place to myself for a bit before other pilgrims started to stream in. Once I settled into my spot, I took a hot shower, washed my clothes, and lined them up to dry under the blazing afternoon sun.
Two thumbs up to this albergue! At just €10 per night, it is clean, has great hot water, and offers free Wi-Fi. Since meals aren't included, I headed to a local mercado to purchase some food. I also had a cheese omelette with fries for lunch at the restaurant next door for €5.
Two thumbs up to this albergue! At just €10 per night, it is clean, has great hot water, and offers free Wi-Fi. Since meals aren't included, I headed to a local mercado to purchase some food. I also had a cheese omelette with fries for lunch at the restaurant next door for €5.
So, what do you know? A group of pilgrims from my home town in California is staying at the albergue too. They cooked a big dinner and invited the rest of us in the albergue to join in - it's so nice and generous of them. They embody the Spirit of the Camino to share, welcome, and appreciate.
Next post: Valcarlos to Roncesvalles (June 15, 2014)
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