"Every now and again, take a good look at something not made with hands - a mountain, a star, the turn of a stream. There will come to you wisdom and patience and solace, and above all, assurance that you are not alone in the world." - Sydney Lovett.
This was a quote I picked today from an envelope of quotes a friend had given me prior to my departure, and it was strikingly relevant. I started my walk at 7 am and arrived in Roncesvalles at 11:20 am after a tough, seemingly endless climb up the Pyrenees. About a third of the trail ran along Highway 135, which meant walking on a hard-paved road with fairly dull scenery.
The remaining two-thirds of the journey wound through a shaded, wooded forest. The quiet woods offered solace and a gentle reminder that I am not alone in this world. From the slow-moving slugs and chirping birds to a brown squirrel that caught me completely by surprise, I was reminded that we all have somewhere to be, but we can go at our own pace. Just being is enough.
The remaining two-thirds of the journey wound through a shaded, wooded forest. The quiet woods offered solace and a gentle reminder that I am not alone in this world. From the slow-moving slugs and chirping birds to a brown squirrel that caught me completely by surprise, I was reminded that we all have somewhere to be, but we can go at our own pace. Just being is enough.
After paying €10 for a bed at the Dutch-run albergue in Roncesvalles, I left my backpack at the door (since check-in wasn't until 2 pm) and went out to explore. The town is incredibly small; everything, including the church and the two local restaurants, was within a two-to-five-minute walk. There wasn't even a market to buy snacks.
After a quick stop at the tourism office, I attended the noon Mass at the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria. I was amazed to see an elderly priest run the service almost single-handedly in such a beautiful 13th-C church. The choir was magnificent, and I loved hearing them sing 'Hallelujah' to the tune of the 'Joy to the World' hymn. Indeed, there is so much to be joyful about in life. At the close of the service, a teenage boy played the saxophone. I loved that confluence of the old and the young, the traditional and the contemporary - it is often exactly where the best ideas and creativity emerged.
After a quick stop at the tourism office, I attended the noon Mass at the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria. I was amazed to see an elderly priest run the service almost single-handedly in such a beautiful 13th-C church. The choir was magnificent, and I loved hearing them sing 'Hallelujah' to the tune of the 'Joy to the World' hymn. Indeed, there is so much to be joyful about in life. At the close of the service, a teenage boy played the saxophone. I loved that confluence of the old and the young, the traditional and the contemporary - it is often exactly where the best ideas and creativity emerged.
Later at 7 pm, I had the €9 pilgrim meal for dinner. The three-course menu included soup and bread to start, trout with fries for the main course, and an ice cream cone for dessert. I shared the table with three German women who all knew each other through karate training.
Above: 360 degree view of Col d'Ibañeta (1,040 m)
Above: Chapelle lieu de l'ancien Hôpital de Roland
Above right: First view of Roncesvalles - the albergue
Above left: Facade of Collegiate Church of Santa Maria
Above right: An amazing choir performed after the 12 pm Mass at the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria
Above left: A statue of St. Jacque (St. James in French) in the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria
Above: Albergue Roncesvalles
Above right: We meet again - Becca, Kelsey, and Garin from the U.S.
Until next time, pax et agape.
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2 comments:
I love the thoroughness of your photoessays.
Thank you! God bless.
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