Today's trail highlights were:
1) Climbing an approximate 100 m tall hill right after Castrojeriz and then descending from it to reach the flat plains
2) Crossing the old medieval bridge, Puente Fitero, over the river Pisuerga (this was one of many historic bridges on the Camino Frances)
3) Leaving the province of Burgos and entering the province of Palencia (the first town of which was Itero de la Vega)
4) Walking alongside the breezy 18th-C Canal de Castilla and seeing the engineering brilliance of the flood gates and dam (just before Fromista)
5) Visiting the crown jewel of Fromista ~ the 11th-C San Martin de Tours Church
I walked a distance of 26 km (16.1 miles) today in about 6 hours (with a half-hour break at Itero de la Vega). The weather today was simply perfect but I kept a brisk pace to avoid the mid-day sun (I left Castrojeriz at 6:30 am and arrived in Fromista at 1 pm). I also wore sandals today for the first time on the trail and they felt so light and free. I had to give my blisters a break and it worked; I didn't feel a thing.
On the trail today, I met a student from Pepperdine University (in L.A., California), who was walking the Camino with 21 others (instructor included) for a Summer Spanish immersion course. I was rather appalled that the Camino has become a course (taught) in an American institution, which students can earn course credits. Self-righteously (tsk tsk tsk), I told her that I'm walking for God and that my credit will come from Him. I was also rather perturbed that the focus was very secular, which I felt was a shame given that the Camino was birthed as a pilgrimage and also encompassed the physical, social, charitable, and spiritual ~ not just the historical and cultural. I may be wrong since I haven't read the syllabus but I hope that the students have the liberty to attend Pilgrims' Masses where opportunities prevail along the Camino. Yes, the Camino is a great teacher but the lessons are best imparted on the willing and the ready; but who am I to judge? Perhaps this was the Camino's call to the students and the instructor. Live and let live!
I had a minor crisis this morning as I had a sudden urge to *ahem* answer nature's call (#2). Without a town in sight, I prayed and prayed for God's help. Lo and behold, just when I thought I wasn't going to make it, I saw a building and prayed that perhaps they would have an open servicio. When I walked to the front of the building, I heaved a huge sigh of relief when I saw that it was a hospital de peregrinos (San Nicholas, run by the Italian fellowship of San Giacomo)! Out of no where, an albergue! I asked one of the folks standing outside if I could use their aseos/servicios/banos and he guided me to the back of the building and boy, you could imagine how happy I was to see a clean restroom with all the necessary amenities (i.e. toilet paper and soap). The place was a God-send! See, ask and you shall receive! :-) I thanked them with immense gratitude for being there.
Above right: An 18 degrees downward slope
Above: An A-M-A-Z-I-N-G breath-taking view ~ the photo does it no justice
Above: The God-send Hospital de Peregrinos San Nicholas is run by the Italian fellowship of San Giacomo; it is just before the Puente Fitero (bridge)
Above: Puente Fitero ~ originally built in the 11th-12th-centuries, it was reconstructed in the 16th-century; it crosses the river Pisuerga
Above: So long Burgos, hello Palencia (provincial) ~ both are in the independent community of Castilla y Leon
Above: Entering Itero de la Vega
Above left: My second breakfast at Itero de la Vega at 9:30 am
Above: Passing through Boadilla del Camino
Above: This man dropped his nets into the canal at 8 pm last night and retrieved them in the late morning today with the catch of the day ~ crawfish!
Above: I really enjoyed the cool breeze while walking along the canal (the trail parallels the canal for over 3 km)
Above: The Canal de Castilla dam (where a tourist boat can still float down/up the steps via flooded gates ~ a descend/ascend of over 14 metres)
Above: Arriving in Fromista
Above left: Church of San Pedro (where I attended the 8 pm mass)
Above: Albergue Estrella del camino in Fromista (9 euros a night; breakfast was not included)
Above left: Weekenders in Fromista
Above: The 11th-C San Martin de Tours Church in Fromista
Above: 8 pm Mass at San Pedro Church, where every pilgrim at the Mass received a blessing
Previous post: Day 21 - Rabe de las Calzadas to Castrojeriz (July 04, 2014)
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