Here's the daily update: I walked 21 km (13.3 miles) and was on the trail from 6:30-11:30 am today; there was an uphill climb of 282 m from Astorga to Rabanal del Camino. I was happy to stop at Rabanal del Camino as by 11:30 am, the weather was utterly unpleasant - it was scorching hot and blindingly bright outside. I found the Albergue Gauselmo (managed by the English Confraternity of St. James) in Rabanal and waited (along with a few other pilgrims) for the place to open at 12:30 pm. While waiting, Fr. Peter, a Polish priest and pilgrim (who was in the same albergue as I was in the night before), taught me a little about Gregorian music. When I showed him some of the music scores I'd picked up from Monasterio Santo Domingo de Silos, he knew the songs, where they were from, and even sang some of the verses for me. It's all so fascinating!
Some highlights of the trail today: Just outside of Astorga in Valdeviejas was Ermita del Ecce Homo, a little church on the left that caught my eye when I saw lights inside it from afar. As I crossed the road to see the church, I saw a pilgrim getting up from his seat and walking towards me to meet and greet me. He told me that he slept outside the church the night before and added that I was the first pilgrim he'd seen since he was there who stopped by to visit the church. Fred, the pilgrim from Germany, had finished the Camino in Santiago de Compostela and was walking home; so far, he had walked 1,500 km. As he was walking in the other direction, he offered me a tip to get cheaper groceries at El Ganso before I went up the hill. When I asked if he needed anything from me, he said a fruit would be nice, if I had one; so, I gave him a nectarine, which he was so grateful for. Not long after, a man came to open the door to the church. The timing couldn't have been better. After visiting the church, which was the only remains of the pilgrim hospital from the 15th century, and getting my stamp on my credential, I said goodbye to Fred. He gave me a hug and the customary pecks on the cheeks. The coming and going, the meeting and bidding of farewells, the fluidity of the Camino ~ I'm thankful for all the special encounters I've had with others on the Camino.
The other highlight was meeting a group of 8 who were starting their Camino from Astorga. Their group includes Enrique, a pilgrim on wheelchair, other joyful family members and friends, and 2 small dogs. I loved their upbeat energy and bond. It's very heartening to see them on the Camino.
The trail was particularly congested between Astorga and Murias de Rechivaldo (the next town west of Astorga) as a group of 100+ Spanish students joined the Camino. I lost them slowly as I passed Santa Catalina de Somoza and El Ganso.
In Rabanal, I had a very satisfying 3-course pilgrim's lunch of rice with eggs, fish and salad, and natilla with flan for 9 euros. After my slow and long lunch, I strolled back to the albergue for afternoon tea with the hospitaleros and other pilgrims. It was nice to sit in the garden and chit-chat with others about our Camino journey. In the evening, I attended the evening and night prayers of the Liturgy of the Hour at the chapel of the Monasterio Benedictino of San Salvador Del Monte Irago, across from Albergue Gauselmo. I appreciated the opportunity to give thanks to God for the blessings of the day. I'm thankful for His abundant love, graciousness, and mercies. Glory be to God.
*PS: It's good to know that I can still upload photos directly to Blogger (but with the knowledge now that there is a photo limit per post/album).*
Above: Ermita del Ecce Homo in Valdeviejas
Above right: Fred from Germany
Above: Entering (and passing through) Santa Catalina de Somoza
Above: Entering El Ganso, where I took an hour's rest to eat breakfast and buy some groceries
Above: Arriving in Rabanal del Camino
Above: Waiting outside at Albergue Gaucelmo (donativo-basis)
Above left: Fr. Peter's tablet ~ "Dum Pater Familias" music score
Above: "Dum Pater Familias" ~ The Pilgrims' Hymn
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