While I liked the mountains in general, I felt dreary from the damp, blue weather up in La Faba yesterday. I felt trapped in the albergue in that little hillside town ~ there was nothing to do there and the other pilgrims were loud and noisy. So, I was happy to leave La Faba this morning at 6:30 am and even happier for the sun and the scenic (yet rather strenuous) hike today. While I didn't get to stay in Fonfria as planned (the only albergue there was fully booked), I'm grateful to find another albergue 5 km west of Fonfria in a pleasant, spacious, and relaxing little town, Fillobal. Next to the Albergue Fillobal was a bar (aira do camino) that served excellent food and drinks; I had all my meals there today. I was also super relieved to be able to do my laundry (a huge machine load for 3 euros) and line my clothes out to dry in the hot sun today.
I bid the province of Leon in the Castilla y Leon community goodbye this morning and walked into the Lugo province in the Galicia community today. It was surreal for me to see the Galicia sign this morning ~ I couldn't believe it for a second that I'd walked all the way from Navarra, Spain to Galicia, Spain (my official start was in St. Jean Pied de Port, France). The capital of Galicia is Santiago de Compostela; so, this is the final community for my walk in Spain.
Anyway, one day at a time. Today, I walked 22 km (13.6 miles) from La Faba to Fillobal in 5.5 hours. I didn't need to make a rest stop today ~ I've built up enough stamina over time to endure long walks and tough climbs. Overall, I feel well-conditioned physically; my feet feel great (no blisters at all) and my legs are strong. Walking a half-marathon distance (on the average) daily has definitely helped to keep me fit. One of the gifts of the Camino. :-)
Above: Entering (and passing through) the stone village of O Cebreiro; Above right: Church of Santa Maria la Real (it was closed when I got there)
Above right: A memorial for Don Elias Valina, O Cebreiro pastor from 1959 to his death in 1989; he was a tireless promoter of the Camino and the creator of the yellow arrow
Above: Pallozas in O Cebreiro ~ ancient pre-Roman circular or oval dwellings formed by stone walls and ceiling stalks of rye
Above right: I really disliked that this woman handed crepes to pilgrims on the way and then solicited a donation from the pilgrims for the crepes (dishonest giving)
Above right: Arrival in Albergue Fillobal ~ 9 euros a night
Above left: Lunch of tortilla con patata and hot chocolate (5 euros); Above right: My bed in the albergue
Above left: Russian salad with tinto de verano; Above right: Panna cotta (milk cheese dessert with chocolate sauce)
Next post: Day 39 - Fillobal to Samos (July 22, 2014)
Previous post: Day 37 - Villafranca del Bierzo to La Faba (July 20, 2014)
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