I walked 5 hours 15 minutes today from 6:15 am to 11:30 am, covering a distance of 22.4 km (13.9 miles) from Sarria to Portomarin. It was the first time on this Camino that I had to wear a head lamp to walk as it was still pitch black outside between 6:15 am and 6:45 am. For a moment, I thought I was crazy to be trekking out alone in darkness, until I saw the flashlight of another pilgrim about a 100 m behind me. So glad I wasn't alone!
I crossed many small rural villages along the way but many were without signs so I didn't know where I was until I stopped at Casa Morgade (at around 9 am) where I had tea and toasts. The trail wasn't as crowded as I imagined it to be; perhaps many pilgrims were already in (or trying to make it to) Santiago for the Feast Day of St. James, which falls on July 25, i.e. tomorrow.
I'm staying a night in Albergue Ultreia in Portomarin. It's the second albergue I've stayed in on this Camino that had the same name so I had to look up the etymology of Ultreia. The word "Ultreia" was used as a greeting in the middle ages to wish and encourage pilgrims to persevere, to go forward. The present, less sophisticated, greeting is "Buen Camino!", which means "Good way!" Maybe I'll start wishing "Ultreia" to others along the way tomorrow and see what reaction I'll get! :-)
That's all for now, folks. Until tomorrow, ultreia, my dear friends!
Above left: My start today from Sarria at 6:15 am was in total darkness ~ I had to take out my head lamp; Above right: Blurry but I like the effect
Above right: I've seen many such tiny brick structures in farms and rural homes along this stretch of the Camino ~ must be a Galician tradition for protection of some sort (I'll have to research about them)
Above left: Casa Morgade, supposedly at 99.5 km (to Santiago), where I had breakfast of toasts and jam and tea (2.70 euros)
Above: This ostrich's head moved like a snake ~ 'twas kinda freakish being near it
Above: These animals were so tame and gentle
Above right: This local woman was mad at the trash left behind by some irresponsible pilgrims ~ really, some pilgrims surprise me with their disrespect for and on the Camino
Above right: Crossing the 350 m long bridge across the river Mino to Portomarin ~ because of acrophobia, that was a frightening walk for me
Above: These kids were fun-loving; they hollered "Buen Camino" to us when we walked across the bridge
Above right: The stairs lead up to the entrance to Portomarin ~ it used to be one of the arches of a Roman bridge but was rebuilt with stairs; a small chapel resided at the top
Above: Arriving in Portomarin at 11:30 am
Above left: Church of San Nicolas de Portomarin ~ a temple fortress built in the 13th-C by the Order of St. John of Jerusalem; it was rebuilt stone by stone in its current location at the plaza due to the construction of the dam, Belesar.
Above: Albergue Ultreia in Portomarin ~ 10 euros a night
Above: 3-course menu del dia for 10 euros in Portomarin
Above: Inside the Church of San Nicolas of Portomarin; Above right: God is Love (AMEN)
Above right: Almond cake, a specialty of Portomarin, also known as the Santiago cake
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