I
took an alternate mountain route today instead of the more direct and asphalt trail for the first part of the morning. The rewards for the climb up the less
beaten path were gorgeous mountain views, a heavenly walk through a cloud and
the woods, and hot chocolate in a remote village (Pradela) of population 70,
where Adrienne (my travel companion today) and I were the only customers. The
break from the noise and crowd was very much appreciated.
We
reconnected to “civilization” when we descended from the mountain and met an
elderly lady who asked if we had spent the night in the mountain (grin). Since
we didn’t get our tortilla con patata at our first stop in Pradela, we went in
search for another place that would have it. It turned out to be the elusive
tortilla con patata search day. None of the places we stopped in at had it. It’s
so bizarre for something as ubiquitous as the tortilla con patata; such is the
irony of life ~ when you want something so badly, you almost always never get
it.
After
the mountain, we passed several villages as we continued our ascent on asphalt
along the highway: La Portela de Valcarce, Ambasmestas, Vega de Valcarce,
Ruitelan, Herrerias, Hospital de los Ingleses, and La Faba (where I ended my
trek for the day). In total, I climbed 410 m today from Villafranca del Bierzo
to La Faba. The stretch between Hospital de los Ingleses and La Faba was the
hardest and most memorable for the extremely steep ascent and muddy and rocky
terrain. The climb reminded me of the Inca trail, which I did in 2008. I
breathed myself to the present and kept on going even though I was tired beyond
words.
It
rained half the time today and as this was my second consecutive rain day for
me, I haven’t been able to do my laundry at the albergue for two days thus far
(yesterday and today). I’m glad that I still have some clean clothes to wear
for another day or two but Wednesday is the absolute cut-off day for me; its
laundry or bust.
I’m
staying in the German-run Albergue Pilger-Herberge in La Faba for 5 euros a
night. Because the dormitories were filled, I thought it was cool that some
pilgrims who arrived late were given mattresses to sleep on in the Church of
St. Andrew that was adjacent to the albergue. For lunch, I had the 3-course Pilgrims’
menu at a nearby bar for 9 euros; I had the mixed salad for the first course, eggs,
cheese and fries for the second, and a Santiago cake for dessert.
Well, buenos noches my friends. Much love from
your grateful pilgrim.
Above right: Arriving in La Faba
Above: Albergue Pilger-Herberge in La Faba ~ 5 euros a night
Above right: Meal preparation time in the albergue's kitchen ~ chaotic
Next post: Day 38 - La Faba to Fillobal (July 21, 2014)
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